Running H-O-T-T Hot
- Thread starter WornTired
- Start date
A
Anonymous
Guest
Try checking the belt. If it is slightly loose it will slip without making the obvious noise, and affect cooling temps. (I know it is a longshot, but it is worth a check).
Bill
Bill
A
Anonymous
Guest
After long last I now have a working temperature guage due to a new sending unit. Now I see that the engine runs hot...about 90% of the way to "H". 75 oF morning, 15 minute commute on city streets to work. Before I go replacing thermostats and thinking about water pumps (I already have a new radiator and hoses), does anyone have a feel for the relative temperature calibration of those needle guages used on a 69? Since I have no way to measure absolute temperature, where should the needle be? the middle? Seems obvious, but how hot is hot?
Bob (69, 200, headers, no ac).
ps. the engine runs great. no starting issues or warmed-up operating issues.
Bob (69, 200, headers, no ac).
ps. the engine runs great. no starting issues or warmed-up operating issues.
69Stang: Stock gauges are notoriously inaccurate, that's why they don't put numbers on them. :roll:
You might want to start the car with the rad cap off until the thermostat opens (water starts flowing around top of radiator), then stick a meat thermometr in the coolant. That will give you a good temp reading.
You might want to start the car with the rad cap off until the thermostat opens (water starts flowing around top of radiator), then stick a meat thermometr in the coolant. That will give you a good temp reading.
A
Anonymous
Guest
One thing not discussed here is hte really low timing. You should be at 12-15 deg advanced at idle per spec.
If you're at 5deg, you're doing something artifical to get the idle smooth - either turning the idle speed way up, or running to rich, or someting else. If your idle speed is to low, your fan isn't moving very fast, which could exaserbate the problem. Or you could have your fan on backwards
So, first I would set the timing back to 12deg, adjsut the idle speed and fuel mixture accordingly.
I would replace the thermostat with a 160deg unit. I say that only beacuse, in my experience, the 160deg thermo solved a big problem for me. It's a cheap, quick fix and no more than $5 to swap out with a new thermo and gasket.
Then I would consider upgrading to the 5-blade fan from a V8, installed in the proper direction. It's a tight fit but it works. I have it in my car and am very happy.
If you're at 5deg, you're doing something artifical to get the idle smooth - either turning the idle speed way up, or running to rich, or someting else. If your idle speed is to low, your fan isn't moving very fast, which could exaserbate the problem. Or you could have your fan on backwards
So, first I would set the timing back to 12deg, adjsut the idle speed and fuel mixture accordingly.
I would replace the thermostat with a 160deg unit. I say that only beacuse, in my experience, the 160deg thermo solved a big problem for me. It's a cheap, quick fix and no more than $5 to swap out with a new thermo and gasket.
Then I would consider upgrading to the 5-blade fan from a V8, installed in the proper direction
. It's a tight fit but it works. I have it in my car and am very happy.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Mine is a 170. The book says 6* BTDC for timing. Is the 12-15* you guys are talking about for a 200 or what? Is my book wrong?. Lemme know on that one.
As far as running hot, I have a newer radiator, but can't remember how many rows. Anyway, ever since I put it in, my engine has run very cool. Don't have a real temp gauge so I don't know the actual #. But it used to run at 3/4 of the way up on the dial. After the new radiator it usually ran at less than 1/2 way unless it was hot outside & I was sitting in traffic, at which point, it might get past 1/2.
Now I have redone the top end & was having some almost-overheating issues. I replaced a few year old 192* Tstat with a new 180* & that seems to have helped. Yet, it is consistently running back over the 1/2 way mark & if I am not moving it climbs a bit higher. If I turn it off for a couple minutes, when I start it up again, the needle is almost pegged to the hot side. Any ideas what is going on? Could this be a timing problem or does a rebuild typically run hotter than a tired old thing?
Thanks,
David K
63 Comet
As far as running hot, I have a newer radiator, but can't remember how many rows. Anyway, ever since I put it in, my engine has run very cool. Don't have a real temp gauge so I don't know the actual #. But it used to run at 3/4 of the way up on the dial. After the new radiator it usually ran at less than 1/2 way unless it was hot outside & I was sitting in traffic, at which point, it might get past 1/2.
Now I have redone the top end & was having some almost-overheating issues. I replaced a few year old 192* Tstat with a new 180* & that seems to have helped. Yet, it is consistently running back over the 1/2 way mark & if I am not moving it climbs a bit higher. If I turn it off for a couple minutes, when I start it up again, the needle is almost pegged to the hot side. Any ideas what is going on? Could this be a timing problem or does a rebuild typically run hotter than a tired old thing?
Thanks,
David K
63 Comet
A
Anonymous
Guest
Isn't it a little higher timing for the auto tranny.
Would adding the headers cause you to run leaner? did you change carb too, add pcv?
Would adding the headers cause you to run leaner? did you change carb too, add pcv?
A
Anonymous
Guest
I mean I think the book says 6 degree's and then add so much for automatic..Mines in the car and not here nut thats my recollection from my 170.
Automatics specs call for more initial advance. However, I never saw a six that didn't like more than factory spec on the initial advance.
I set them all to 12-14 degrees BTDC.
BTW, failed distributor ignition advance is a known cause of engine overheating in Jag V12's.
I set them all to 12-14 degrees BTDC.
BTW, failed distributor ignition advance is a known cause of engine overheating in Jag V12's.
A
Anonymous
Guest
I agree, these engines love advance. Mine is at 20 initial. Time it with a vacuum gauge. Adjust until you have the highest reading. take it out and drive it and fine tune plus or minus from there. Then check out the temps.
Bill
Bill
And the kicker, you can't trust the timing marks, because so many of the pulleys slip with age, like me. 
A
Anonymous
Guest
I quote this for those of us who no longer have room behind the rad to fit a fan. From TFFN;
Just need to be able to fit between the upper and lower structual pieces, then can go wider and forward. Maybe do the dual fans to keep away from the pulleys. I know I can go forward 3.5 inchs and have room for my condensor. Has anyone done this? Also can we use a crossflow rad?
Thanks,
don
don
Just need to be able to fit between the upper and lower structual pieces, then can go wider and forward. Maybe do the dual fans to keep away from the pulleys. I know I can go forward 3.5 inchs and have room for my condensor. Has anyone done this? Also can we use a crossflow rad?
Thanks,
don
don
A
Anonymous
Guest
WornTired;
I am suspicious of the 5 degree advance and the 3/4 turn setting on the carb's screws. Normally on an '83 you should be running 8-10 degrees advance and NO VACUUM to the distributor unless the engine is cold or overheated (Ford's CSSA system). The carbs are typically set at about 2-3 turns out: at 2/3 turn it will be very lean (1940-series carbs) or rich (2100-series carbs).
What is the distributor advance plate set to?
MarkP
I am suspicious of the 5 degree advance and the 3/4 turn setting on the carb's screws. Normally on an '83 you should be running 8-10 degrees advance and NO VACUUM to the distributor unless the engine is cold or overheated (Ford's CSSA system). The carbs are typically set at about 2-3 turns out: at 2/3 turn it will be very lean (1940-series carbs) or rich (2100-series carbs).
What is the distributor advance plate set to?
MarkP
