Running Lean on Turns

StarDiero75

StarDiero75

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Howdy guys,

So since I've installed the Autolite 2100 on the Ranchero I've had issues of it running lean on left turns. The left turn can be a sweeping bank on the highway, or a roundabout, or any left turn, especially hard ones. When i do the opposite, turn right, it richens. By lean out, i mean decent lean out like into the 16s sometimes 17s. Is there any way of fixing this or is this just the joys of a carb?

Also, similarly related, when I'm compression braking, it runs lean as expected. Like high 14s, 15s, and sometimes it creeps up into the 17s. What I don't like, is when i put the clutch in and it still runs lean at idle for a minute. It takes it a minute to go back to normal, or if i tap tye gas ir fixes it. Any remedies for this? My weber never did that.

All this plus more pushes me heavily towards going to the TBI I mentioned in another post.

Thanks
 
motor mount (tention on throttle cabe)?
I thin I saw it has 2 floats, arm bent out of wack?
not carpet I don't think.....humm several other thnigs...?
:hmmm:

weird: I got 6 posts 4 this 1 'new thread' in my in box.
Perry at it again, improvin? ready for up grade? Is that
U Ryan?....also a bit slo on loading...
 
:hmmm: This sounds like a fuel delivery problem, you need to mount a temporary fuel pressure gauge so that you can see what's happening during your turns and braking. The cause maybe in the fuel tank pick up, to small of a fuel line, not enough fuel volume, venting, fuel cap, or the fuel pump. If any or severial of these thing are the cause changing over to TBI in itself probably isn't going to fix it. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:
 
bubba22349":2s56xbk8 said:
:hmmm: This sounds like a fuel delivery problem, you need to mount a temporary fuel pressure gauge so that you can see what's happening during your turns and braking. The cause maybe in the fuel tank pick up, to small of a fuel line, not enough fuel volume, venting, fuel cap, or the fuel pump. If any or severial of these thing are the cause changing over to TBI in itself probably isn't going to fix it. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:
Click to expand...
What bothers me is that none of this happened with the weber. The difference in the fuel line is that i don't have the fuel regulator anynore. The fuel cap is a stock 65 Ranchero fuel cap, i don't think i can do anything about that. The sender is new but was on with the weber. Fuel line is 5/16 and has always been that. Other than the regulator, its all the same. I can mount a fuel pressure gauge but what will that tell me if I already know its running lean on turns?
 
Yes and you are likely making quite a bit more power now over that little Weber carb! The fuel pressure gauge though not absolutely nessisary is a valuable tuning aide that will let you quickly see if the fuel pressure starts dropping when it's happening in real time, a pressure drop would also equal less fuel volume. This is like doing a basic static fuel pump volume test but while your driving.

The stock 5/16 fuel line is maybe ok but usally I like running at least a 3/8 inch minimum fuel line on a street Performace car. A higher volume fuel pump (think the Carter SBC mod) this would probably help you and is were I would start. Then if you wanted you could also run a simple fuel return line back to the tank (using your old 5/16 line if you change it or 1/4 new one) so you always have fresh clean fuel to the carb plus if you went to the TBI fuel injection system it might also need it. Best of luck :thumbup: :nod: Edited with some additional info.

Carter Fuel Pump Mod
ci/FuelPump.html
 
bubba22349":2h2hni0u said:
Yes and you are likely making quite a bit more power now over that little Weber carb! The fuel pressure gauge though not absolutely nessisary is a valuable tuning aide that will quickly let you see if the fuel pressure starts dropping when it's happening in real time, a pressure drop would also equal less fuel volume. This is like doing a basic static fuel pump volume test but while your driving. The stock 5/16 fuel line is maybe ok but usally I like running at least a 3/8 inch minimum fuel line on a street Performace car. A higher volume fuel pump (think the Carter SBC mod) this would probably help you and is were I would start. Then if you wanted you could also run a simple fuel return line back to the tank (using your old 5/16 line if you change it or 1/4 new one) so you always have fresh clean fuel to the carb plus if you went to the TBI fuel injection system it might also need it. Best of luck :thumbup: :nod: Edited with some additional info.

Carter Fuel Pump Mod
ci/FuelPump.html
Click to expand...
Hmmmm, i may have to try that. Where is a good place to get metal fuel line? I went into NAPA and they don't have any.
For a return line, do i just run a T or is there another way to do it?

So, why is this only when I turn? When i floor it, it works just fine. It runs rich when i make right turns. Does this sound more like a float issue or fuel delivery issue?
 
There are several ways, yes a T can work well and there is also an inline fuel filter with an extra outlet that you can use as the return. You then hook up the other end of the new return line so that it goes into the fuel filer neck. You can use some pre made brake lines for fuel lines if they don't have the fuel line in stock or you can get them to order you some I used to carry coiled line from NAPA in my service truck. You may also be able to find some at a hardware store don't use copper though. Some people will use the rubber fuel lines for full run is quick and easy, I perfur to use metal lines they are much longer lasting, except for the last 6 to 8 inches with some rubber at ends. You can also put a jet if (needed) in the line near the carb to adjust the fuel pressure too.

Yes for sure that's a possable cause, improper setting of the wet fuel levels in a carb (which is the more accurate way of setting than a dry float setting) this fuel level can be a big cause in rich and lean conditions but is also easy to get it dialed in right. Then maybe Centrifugal force like when doing some spirited cornering maneuvers can have an effect on the fuel in the bowl and or the float depending on what direction the float is in the carb. Right now I am not remembering how you carb's orientation is.

You issue though from a different cause, reminded me that I once worked on an old late 1980's VW Rabbit (fuel injection) that had set unused a number of years, as I repaired, adjusted, and tuned it all up. It was running excellent until you made a right turn and it would just die. It baffled me for a bit then found that the problem was located in the fuel tank (even with plenty of fuel in the tank) the internal plastic balfeling around the fuel pump had deteriorated were it wouldn't pick up fuel, swapped in another fuel tank and it was good to go again. Anyway point is sometimes the cause isn't were you think it will be, good luck. :thumbup: :nod: Edited
 
A little more on wet fuel level, that's what's so great on your Autolite / Motorcraft 2 V's and 4 V's (my personal favorites) is you can pull the top off and run the engine at idle to measure the wet fuel level. Holley's are also good too because of the bowl plug that can be pulled while Idleing the engine if your carful to check the fuel level or even easier and faster is the glass bowl site plugs. :thumbup: :nod:
 
One nice thing about a Holley is the many types of float designs available.
On my Holley i run a Braswell road race float & have no problems on turns.
I will have to check their website to see if they offer any floats for an Autolite.
 
Bad pump seal? Leak into the pump circuit? Going lean on a turn should indicate a low bowl, lean float. But you're going rich to the right, where's the bowl? It gets dry, then it gets wet. Left and then right. That's what I'm hearing you say. Mine with the stock, bowl fwd position tends to run out on a right hand turn when not warmed up after adjusting the float lean.
 
Ok guys i messed with the float today and it sesms to have gotten a little better. i raised it and its not quite as bad, still does, but not as bad. Its now pointed slightly upwards instead of pretty level with the top of the bowl. Also, it seemed to fix my issue of staying lean from compression braking even after pushing in the clutch. It will run lean for a second then get richer. I will try to make it even higher tomorrow. Also, I'm running a nitrophyl float if that matters. The brass one i had caused flooding when i turned off the car so i switched it back.

My carb is mounted bowl side on the passenger side. I'm also noticing a lot of heat related issues with the headers and the fuel line having to come in on that side. I'll be making a heat shield here soon too. I took it out today and after letting it sit for about 10 mins it wouldn't want to start. The rubber line going in was hot.

Thanks for everyones input so far, i appreciate it all.
 
instead? easiest is insulate line...
shield's for the carb...
 
:beer: Congrats that's great news that you getting some improvements, then it looks like you are heading the right direction. That's also a good plan on getting a heat shield or insulation of carb and fuel lines. On carb's there's been so good results using those white plastic type cutting boards found cheap at China (Wal) Mart as an insulator under the carb base. :nod:
 
So after a long drive today, i noticed it actually didn't change anything. It still runs pretty lean on turns and runs lean on compression braking. I guess it gets worse with heat or whatever. I used some toilet paper rolls cut and put over part of the fuel line going into the carb. I believe it helped a little. Still got vapor locked while idling after getting off the freeway and sitting in a drive through. I'm gonna make the heat shield and reevaluate. The heat soaked carb is definitely not helping any of this.
 
I have seen several wooden clothes pins attached to the fuel line intended to draw heat out of the fuel line. If you have an awesome high tech looking engine bay it might look a little clunky.
 
X2 yep the wooden clothes pins are an old trick. Acts as a heat radiator. If you can still use that machine shop equipment you could make aluminum fuel block and machine some fins to radiate the heat or maybe just move the fuel line far enough away from the heat source like to the other side of the engine. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:
 
I might try the clothes pin trick, i have heard of that. Many people I've talked to call it a hoaks lol.

I no longer have access to the shop sadly. Another issue that I have is that I cannot switch the side the carb comes in on. The accel pump hits the valve cover i believe. But i can triple check. Has anyone tried taking metal line, then slipping rubber fuel line over it? Would the rubber act as a good insulator?
 
Your fighting the gremlins of winter blend fuel and summer blend isn't much better. The weather's been good. What makes it "winter" blend is that it evaporates at a lower temperature but supposedly burns cleaner even though there's less btu's or mpg's. I'm not sure what that means for the earth, mileage or efficiency when you lose a bowl of fuel everytime you shutdown and then flood it to get it started... Just like all these morons out here in WA that have never used or understood traffic light timing. In my hometown of Wabash, IN there is mechanical traffic light timing still in use that was figured out and installed long before I was born. From the 30's or so. In Ft Wayne they have had computer controlled variable light timing since the 80's and you can drive at any speed, so long as you are travelling with the flow of traffic and never hit more than 1 red light. From one end to the other from the country through the heart of the city and back to country again. Here in corrupt, leftist, anything for the environment western WA with it's tech world of so-called genius know-it-alls, not so much.
 
I'm the 1 who mentioned so:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dei- ... gIP8PD_BwE

but I wuz just thinkin bout the foam we put on copper plumbing lines. I thought I saw
something like that down sized somewhere into the fuel line size (still in the home
construction materials field) grayish kinda thing just like the 1/2 & 3/4 inch ones.

Now kids, we got an interesting science lesson for ya. All gather round and hear a coupla stories!:
#1) the cloths pins idea we knew bout was by our parents generation ('the Greatest")
for the hot, highly humid summers on the Chesapeake Bay when freezing vapor lock happened
w/fuel speeding thru the carb venturi. That crap gas had water in it, the humidity didn't help any
and a close pin on the rubber (part of the) fuel line slowed down the fuel delivery lessening the water rushin thru
that narrow lill space & freezing out into ice - hence (frozen gas-)vapor lock(ed up). May B different in Cali? Lots of pins
ona metal line to vent off hot temps? How will a wooden clothes pin do that?

#2)... :arrow:
 
Sorry I just love to talk about traffic engineers that really just hate cars and the people who want to drive them. Activist morons that never ask about the environmental cost of offshoring or stopping at a light at the bottom of a hill and then having to start up the next. They cut off their nose to spite their face and fuch us all in the process of them "living" their ideological dream/delusion of reality which has no bearing to truth other than the worlds obligation fall in line, stroke their ego and be sorry we ever questioned their "science" or "data". They wouldn't know the truth, science or understand the data even if it was living on their doorstep. That's not what they seek and those idiots fuch us all the way down the line. But they can feel good about themselves in their echo chamber of bullshit as they pat each other on the back. Where I come from my nose ends where yours begins. As they say, the proof of the pudding is in the eating.
 
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