Runs like a snail

[SteveS]

You should be able to remove the fuel sender without dropping the tank.

How? There's no access panel in the floor.

 

[SteveS]

I have checked all these things multiple times

Have you specifically verified that eh balancer and timing mark has not slipped? Does TDC indicated correspond to actual TDC compression stroke in #1 cyl?

How is timing set? With a light or vacuum gauge etc?
Doug

When the #1 is at TDC and the rotor is pointing to the #1 wire the corresponding timing mark is a 10* btdc as set with the timing light.

The timing is set with a light. We are allowed to be set + or - 3* from spec in California.

 

[ludwig]

Get your TDC manually. There are several techniques: probe, putty stop on old spark plug and bare finger in the plug hole. I used that one. You know it is TDC when you feel pressure build on your finger.

At this point you have TDC. Make a new mark on your balancer for the true TDC and time it with your light from the new mark.

The outer ring on the balancer has a tendency to slip on these old boys and TDC needs to be relocated and re-marked at the new spot.

 

[JackFish]

You should be able to remove the fuel sender without dropping the tank.

How? There's no access panel in the floor.

It's located on the bottom front passenger side of the tank.

 

[SteveS]

You should be able to remove the fuel sender without dropping the tank.

How? There's no access panel in the floor.

It's located on the bottom front passenger side of the tank.

Oh crap! Now I need to get it very close to empty. I though it was like the other 83-88 Fox.

 

[SteveS]

Get your TDC manually. There are several techniques: probe, putty stop on old spark plug and bare finger in the plug hole. I used that one. You know it is TDC when you feel pressure build on your finger.

At this point you have TDC. Make a new mark on your balancer for the true TDC and time it with your light from the new mark.

The outer ring on the balancer has a tendency to slip on these old boys and TDC needs to be relocated and re-marked at the new spot.

Gotcha!

 

[66 Fastback]

The timing is set with a light. We are allowed to be set + or - 3* from spec in California.

That stinks. What do you do if you have aftermarket cams etc that would require different timing?
Doug

 

[Asa]

The timing is set with a light. We are allowed to be set + or - 3* from spec in California.

That stinks. What do you do if you have aftermarket cams etc that would require different timing?
Doug

that's where CARB compliance came in

 

[SteveS]

The timing is set with a light. We are allowed to be set + or - 3* from spec in California.

That stinks. What do you do if you have aftermarket cams etc that would require different timing?
Doug

Hot rodding is pretty limited to 76 and newer vehicles. Stock and those authorized CARB compliance parts which are few. All emissions must be intact. They can only test the exhaust and EGR systems. If equipped the check engine light must come on when the key is in the run possition and be off during the test.

Other than that everything is permissable. Ha Ha.

Engine swapping is permissable for example I can install a engine from a same year Mustang 5.0 or newer but the emissions for that engine must be maintained. Say I put in a 1994 Mustang 5.0. It has to have all the emissions from the 94 Mustang including the dash light for check engine and it must be operable. Then the car has to go to the Bureau of Automotive Repair Referee who will inspect the installation for compliance and an emissions test. It everything is a go he will issue a new underhood emissions tag that states the compliance year, in this case 1994, and all future emissions tests will be based on 1994 Mustang instead of 1982 Cougar.

Kind of a pain in the butt but doable. Otherwise stick to 1975 and older vehicles.

The same is true for CARB authorized parts like cams which there are none for the Ford inline sixes.

bottom line I'm stuck but my intent was not to hot rod the car. If I were to it would get and engine conversion to a V8, probably Mustang.

 

[66 Fastback]

I guess I have led a sheltered life. But I'm sure we will all get the California policies if a certain person is elected next Tuesday.
Doug

 

[grendi_250ci]

I guess I have led a sheltered life. But I sure we will all get the California policies if a certain person is elected next Tuesday.
Doug

i'd trade the swiss policies against the california policies any day!!

 

[SteveS]

I guess I have led a sheltered life. But I'm sure we will all get the California policies if a certain person is elected next Tuesday.
Doug

The California legislature does just fine screwing with everything without any help from the Feds.

PRC (People's Republic of California)

 

[SteveS]

The problem is solved by a mystery fault in the vacuum lines comming off the left side of the aircleaner. That leads, eventually, to the EGR valve. There are basically four components in this area:
1. The bi-metal temperature valve in the aircleaner.
2. Vacuum delay valve which is 200 + or - 40 seconds.
3. Vacuum diverter valve
4. Vacuum control valve

I've simply rerouted the EGR vacuum line to bypass the above parts as I don't know which of these components are bad. Nor do I know how to test each one.

I'm possitive #1 is good. I had a spare in that one acts the same.
I'm possitive #4 is good. It's simply a water temperature controlled switch which prevents vacuum to the EGR until the water temp is 118* which does.
I have no idea how to test # 2 and 3.

What happened is that the car ran good without the aircleaner installed. Once I had the car running good, very good I installed the air cleaner and closed the hood. The next day it was running bad again. Apart she came and I retested everything only to have the car run good. I did this three days and only discovered the problem by chance. At 1200 or so rpm the engine would cut off as if I turned off the key. At idle it was fine. At higher speed it would act like a misfire. It was only chance that I unplugged the vacuum lines from the bi-metal valve that it would stall.

There is nothing in the books that would indicate that this system is what was causing the problem.

I'm still scratching my head on this. Very, very strange.

 

[JackFish]

A spark delay valve @ 200 seconds is ridiculous.
That's over three minutes. You could be in the next county by then!
Better check your specs on that, because spark delays are normally within a range of 4-20 seconds.
They can be tested with a vacuum pump and a vacuum guage for operation.

 

[SteveS]

A spark delay valve @ 200 seconds is ridiculous.
That's over three minutes. You could be in the next county by then!
Better check your specs on that, because spark delays are normally within a range of 4-20 seconds.
They can be tested with a vacuum pump and a vacuum guage for operation.

Vacuum delay valve. Intent is to delay opening of the EGR that long until the VCV opens at 118*.

Not spark delay. It is correct for this application. That's easy to test. Apply vacuum and time it.

 

[SteveS]

The problem is the star ship enterprise.

It's called the purge control valve. It looks like the star ship enterprise.

What a long haul for such an innocent part.