Seeping head gasket

[1967JMG]

Is there anything I can do to stop this? All of the past 3 head gaskets I've put on there still seep down the side! I just dont understand...

 

[tony1963]

My 200 did the same thing. When I rebuilt the engine, I had the block decked .007 and hasn't dripped a drop.

 

[Ronbo]

My 200 did the same thing. When I rebuilt the engine, I had the block decked .007 and hasn't dripped a drop.

That would be the "correct" answer! 8) However, if you use some Permatex "super 300" form-a-gasket, part# 83H (I think?) around the jacket holes, and gasket, you might be able to get away with it. Remember, not the whole head, just around those holes. I did it and knock on wood, been good so far. I hate it too, ugly looking on an otherwise nice looking engine.

Ron

 

[powerband]

Is there anything I can do to stop this? All of the past 3 head gaskets I've put on there still seep down the side! I just dont understand...

'Presuming the head has been checked or milled, do you have the brand and part number of the gaskets you're using?. The Head gasket issue generates more concern and posting than many of the major rebuild components. I am hoping there is enough response for Classic Inlines to offer a performance head gasket for commonality. Composite gaskets shouldn't need any surface sealer but Hi-Tack or similar light adhesive often helps. I liberally coat steel shim gaskets with Copper gasket spray.

Have Fun

Powerband

 

[JackFish]

I'll throw in my 2¢ here as usual.
I noticed that the earlier manuals have the torquing sequence starting on the manifold side of the head, whereas the later manuals changed that to starting the sequence on the driver side.

So where has everyone been starting their torquing? I should take a poll.

 

[1967JMG]

I'll throw in my 2¢ here as usual.
I noticed that the earlier manuals have the torquing sequence starting on the manifold side of the head, whereas the later manuals changed that to starting the sequence on the driver side.

So where has everyone been starting their torquing? I should take a poll.

I followed the later sequence, starting on the driver side...
The head was also checked and milled.
Is this an issue that I should take care of right away? or can it go a little bit before I had to dismantle everything to see if I can solve this?

 

[ludwig]

Addo has a head-torquing technique that seems to work. Now I don't know for sure if it works, but he wouldn't be Addo and he certainly wouldn't share it if it did not work. He does a preliminary torque-down and a second torque-down to final spec. Then he does a re-torque after the first long drive or something. Do a 'search' for head torque and author: addo.

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy JMG:

I've just gotta ask, what machining was done to this engine an how much was taken off the block and/or the head? Did you run a tap, or otherwise clean the head bolt holes? Have you checked to see if the headbolts are bottoming out in their holes?

Nothing helps a seal like true, flat surfaces, good quality gaskets and correct fasteners.

A little seepage is not a big problem. How bad is it?

Keep the info coming.

Adios, David

 

[1967JMG]

well, first off, i'm actually using the arp studs that mike sells. not bolts. and its not seeping bad. i can see a little liquid at the joint between the head and the block. the head was milled just to make sure it was flat. the block was a previously rebuilt motor so i have no idea if anything was ever taken off the block... as far as torquing it, i did it in three steps. ive only been driving it a couple days since getting it put back together so maybe ill go back out there and check the torque again now that it been run a little bit.

 

[JackFish]

A warped deck maybe?

 

[tony1963]

If you've torqued it down properly and used a new gasket, the only thing left is that the deck is not flat or your gasket isn't sealing properly.

I always use the Fel-Pro gaskets. They're thicker but seal much better.

 

[Ronbo]

well, first off, i'm actually using the arp studs that mike sells. not bolts. and its not seeping bad.

I did the same thing, studs to make sure I was not bottoming out. As far as the "not bad seeping", it picks up the pace after awhile. Your's is doing it right after assembly? Maybe it needs a few heat up/cool down cycles? Again, I have maybe 500-600 miles after assembling so I don't know how long mine will last. Head was shaved and block trued up.

Ron

 

[1967JMG]

well, thats seems like what I'm going to have to do. All I have used is felpro gaskets until this last one which was an ACL head gasket. So, next disassembly will be to get the block decked, I guess...

 

[65coupei6]

I was concerned at first also. Way back when I first rebuilt my engine the block wept a little on the drivers side. I later put on the OZ 250 head and it still leaked a little. Nothing major but just enough that you couild see the marks on the block. After talking to a few engine builders and people who restore Mustangs. They all told me the same thing. They all do that. Maybe as everyone has mentioned because of the head gasket quality.

 

[1967JMG]

i hear that alot too. "they all do that". Its the say for me. Just enough right at the crease that I would notice. not many other people do tho. it just bothers me cause i know its there. lol