she runs, but idles way too high

[Asa]

rebuilt the Carter YF i got from a '76 F-100, tossed it on and fired her up

got a few issues

1) will not idle down at all, idle air screw does absolutely nothing, choke is all the way open, no clue where to start at all

2) even warm i have to close the choke to get it to start, leaving it open it just doesn't catch, once she cranks and she starts to turn over she'll run with no problem, but unless i close that choke she'll just spit and sputter a few times, then be flooded (i'm pretty sure that this is connected to #1, but whatever)


anyone need anything else? this is really annoying

 

[LEROY POLL]

HEY ASA67_STANG.


.....SOUNDS LIKE YOU HAVE A BIG AIR LEAK. IT'S POSSIBLY MORE THAN A HOSE OFF. THE AIR LEAK IS LIKE HAVE THE THROTTLE OPEN AND THE CHOKE IS ADDING MORE GAS.

.....SOMETIMES WE GO BLIND WHEN WE INSTECT ARE OWN WORK. BUT IF YOU LOOK IT OVER YOU WILL FIND WHERE THE LEAK IS.

GOOD LUCK

LIVE IN GRACE

LEROY POLL

 

[Asa]

there are two ports that are unhooked, the EGR is one, and there's one at the top of the carb that isn't labeled

would the EGR being open make it idle that high?

 

[LEROY POLL]

YES YES YES

SI SI SI YOU FOUND IT

 

[Asa]

well... unfortunately it's half an hour till midnight, so i can't go play with it (i don't have the exhaust hooked up, straight headers for now...)

however! half day at work tomorrow! so i'll play with her then

thanks Leroy

 

[Asa]

well, plugged the extra ports with vacuum plugs... no change at all

next suggestion?

 

[MustangSix]

Propane torch......not to burn the thing down, but to check for leaks. spray the suspected areas with propane (unlit) and you'll hear a distinct change in engine speed when the gas is sucked in.

Check the trans modulator line. It's under the car and can't always be heard.

 

[JackFish]

To what value is your initial timing set?

 

[Asa]

i don't know
i can't get it down to an idle low enough so that it will keep running when i turn the advance down enough to get a reading

 

[pedal2themetal45]

One thing I just thought of ....
is the throual linkage longe enough so it can return all the way?? Un hook the linkage (leave the spring on it so it don't over reve) and see if its idles down... Just a thought.
Tim

 

[Asa]

i haven't even setup the cable linkage it's gonna need, there is no tension on it at all

 

[JackFish]

i don't know
i can't get it down to an idle low enough so that it will keep running when i turn the advance down enough to get a reading

Any chance the balancer has slipped? Maybe verify TDC.

 

[Asa]

negative, brand new

 

[The Plankster Prankster]

i had the exact same problem running a YF on my 300. if i'm not mistaken theres a device called a "dashpot" mounted on a bracket on the side of the carb. it has a rod that sticks out to a flat piece of metal attached to the throttle plate's shaft. on mine, the dashpot forced an idle around 1500 rpm by holding the throttle open. so i took off the dashpot and that problem was gone. the rest of my yf problems are not able to be caused by that (trust me, plenty of problems with flooding and stalling), so i advise taking it off, at least for testing. i took mine off but kept it in the truck, only use it had for me was one day she would do nothing but flood, so i put it back on to raise the idle so it would run.

 

[Asa]

i actually forgot to put tha part back on there... but thanks for the reminder

 

[jamyers]

Have you looked down the carb throat and verified that the throttle blade is actually closed or very nearly so?

If it's where it should be and it's still idling high, you've got a huge air leak somewhere else...I'd start capping ports and using the propane to find it. (if you don't have propane, you can use carb cleaner, lysol, anything flammable)

 

[Anonymous]

check your timing. dads did the same exact thing, it is probably advanced too far and is outrunning itself so to speak. it probably sounds like an airplane taking off. anyhow gurn your distributor clockwise a little while the engine is running until it sounds normal yet still runs smooth (no misses) then stop. once your there you can tune your carb (if the engine is warm by then)

try it. its easy and wont hurt anything at least.

 

[Asa]

Have you looked down the carb throat and verified that the throttle blade is actually closed or very nearly so?

If it's where it should be and it's still idling high, you've got a huge air leak somewhere else...I'd start capping ports and using the propane to find it. (if you don't have propane, you can use carb cleaner, lysol, anything flammable)

tried something along those lines last night... the problem i immediately ran into was that the fan is pushing so much air that it immediately blew what i was using away

check your timing. dads did the same exact thing, it is probably advanced too far and is outrunning itself so to speak. it probably sounds like an airplane taking off. anyhow gurn your distributor clockwise a little while the engine is running until it sounds normal yet still runs smooth (no misses) then stop. once your there you can tune your carb (if the engine is warm by then)

try it. its easy and wont hurt anything at least.

timing doesn't do anything, i can retard it till it dies, but that's at around 4* or so