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Anonymous
Guest
Finished everything up at 11:00 PM last night.
http://www.pbase.com/66mustangrebuild
Just a few things left to iron out.
http://www.pbase.com/66mustangrebuild
Just a few things left to iron out.
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Anonymous
Guest
That looks great! How did you do that throttle linkage? I am putting a Holley 5200 in my Falcon and am trying to figure that one out.
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Anonymous
Guest
Thanks.
The throttle linkage was probably the most challenging part of the entire project. There was alot of trial and error, but I will try to explain it the best I can.
The first thing I did did was bolt an aluminum "L" bracket to the linkage attached to the carb. It is not easy drilling the carb and took about an hour to drill the two holes and quite a few drill bits.
I then needed to mount the nipple (I don't know what it's called) on the inside of the plate, facing the carb. I could not find one at any part store. The nipple on the new carb was rivited on, so I grinded the back side until it broke free. I then carefully drilled and tapped it so I could screw it to the "L" bracket.
At this point the existing linkage hooked right up, but it was angled too far forward and when you pushed down the gas pedal it binded and then slammed into full throttle (that's no good). The only solution I thought of was to extend the arm out to where it was pushing the rod straight up so that the linkage moved smoothly and could reach full throttle. There was an existing hole on the arm, so I bolted a piece of aluminum to it, as you can see. I left the existing nipple on the arm, but had to drill a partial hole on the inside of the piece of aluminum facing the arm so that it would fit over where the nipple was rivited on the outside. If not, it would not fit flush on the arm. I then notched the piece of aluminum and attached a small "L" bracket that passes underneath the piece of aluminum and arm. This is the screw you see just to the right of the screw holding the piece of aluminum to the arm. The small "L" bracket was tapped, so I screwed it from the inside of the piece of aluminum out into the bracket. I had to counter sink the screw on the inside so that it fit flush against the arm. I then grinded off the end of the screw, as you can see. This way the piece of aluminum can not pivot on the one screw holding it to the arm and I drilled a hole straight down on the other side of the bracket to hook up the spring.
I then mounted another "L" bracket to the piece of aluminum directly under the nipple I attached to the carb. Was then able to attach the rod that snaps on the linkage to the "L" bracket and snap it on the nipple.
Hope that explains it well enough. It seems to work smoothly and pushes the carb to full throttle.
The throttle linkage was probably the most challenging part of the entire project. There was alot of trial and error, but I will try to explain it the best I can.
The first thing I did did was bolt an aluminum "L" bracket to the linkage attached to the carb. It is not easy drilling the carb and took about an hour to drill the two holes and quite a few drill bits.
I then needed to mount the nipple (I don't know what it's called) on the inside of the plate, facing the carb. I could not find one at any part store. The nipple on the new carb was rivited on, so I grinded the back side until it broke free. I then carefully drilled and tapped it so I could screw it to the "L" bracket.
At this point the existing linkage hooked right up, but it was angled too far forward and when you pushed down the gas pedal it binded and then slammed into full throttle (that's no good). The only solution I thought of was to extend the arm out to where it was pushing the rod straight up so that the linkage moved smoothly and could reach full throttle. There was an existing hole on the arm, so I bolted a piece of aluminum to it, as you can see. I left the existing nipple on the arm, but had to drill a partial hole on the inside of the piece of aluminum facing the arm so that it would fit over where the nipple was rivited on the outside. If not, it would not fit flush on the arm. I then notched the piece of aluminum and attached a small "L" bracket that passes underneath the piece of aluminum and arm. This is the screw you see just to the right of the screw holding the piece of aluminum to the arm. The small "L" bracket was tapped, so I screwed it from the inside of the piece of aluminum out into the bracket. I had to counter sink the screw on the inside so that it fit flush against the arm. I then grinded off the end of the screw, as you can see. This way the piece of aluminum can not pivot on the one screw holding it to the arm and I drilled a hole straight down on the other side of the bracket to hook up the spring.
I then mounted another "L" bracket to the piece of aluminum directly under the nipple I attached to the carb. Was then able to attach the rod that snaps on the linkage to the "L" bracket and snap it on the nipple.
Hope that explains it well enough. It seems to work smoothly and pushes the carb to full throttle.
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Anonymous
Guest
So the tension spring is down below? I don't see one.
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Anonymous
Guest
the tension spring is hooked to an alumimum plate I bolted to an existing hole in the block
michael_cini
Well-known member
wow, that's beautiful! really nice. how did you mount the 2 barrel carb? it doesn't look like the usual clifford adapter.
best,
michael
best,
michael
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Anonymous
Guest
I used the adapter from Clifford.
MandarinaRacing
Famous Member
Good work man!!! Don't you just love working until late on your car, it really gives a feeling of satisfaction when you're done 
Alex
Alex
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Anonymous
Guest
I used the Holly Carb. adapter from Clifford with a 5200 carb. from Stovebolt. I did not hog out the adapter or intake log.
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Anonymous
Guest
looking really good man the before and after pics LOOK like completely different motors great job hope my rebuild comes out half of that=) Was wondering do those Chrome T's come with the valve cover or did you have to get those somewhere else?
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Anonymous
Guest
I have only taken the car around the block so far, but it seems to be running very smooth. It is idling a little low, but I have not adjusted the carb. I am going to run ia little harder this weekend. Here is what I have to date as far as mods.
- FSPP Dual out Pacemaker Headers
- Holly 5200 from Stovebolt
- Head Rebuild (3 angle valve job, new valves, springs, hardened valve seats, welded in port divider, etc...)
- New Radiator
- 68 Dual advance distributir
- Petronix & Flame thrower Coil (not yet installed)
- Flowmaster 40 series mufflers (2 in exhaust pipes w/ H-Pipe equalizer pipe installed) 3" welded on magnaflow exhaust tips. The exhaust shop did an amazing job running the pipes. I will post some better pics of them.
That is pretty much it for now. I did not do anything to the lower half. The motor only had about 60,000 miles on it and I bought it of a little old lady (original owner) so I'm pretty certain it wasn't run very hard. THis is really my first project and didn't know much before I started. I simply read as much as I could, took my time, and thanks to everybody on the forum answering all my dumb question, I was able to get it done.
In the future I would like to add a cam and a few extras, but I am very satisfied with what has been done to this point.
Thanks for all the help.
I bought the chrome T's at a car swap, you just have to make sure they are the longer ones so they clear the valve cover. The valve cover on our 6's are a little taller than most V8 valve covers.
- FSPP Dual out Pacemaker Headers
- Holly 5200 from Stovebolt
- Head Rebuild (3 angle valve job, new valves, springs, hardened valve seats, welded in port divider, etc...)
- New Radiator
- 68 Dual advance distributir
- Petronix & Flame thrower Coil (not yet installed)
- Flowmaster 40 series mufflers (2 in exhaust pipes w/ H-Pipe equalizer pipe installed) 3" welded on magnaflow exhaust tips. The exhaust shop did an amazing job running the pipes. I will post some better pics of them.
That is pretty much it for now. I did not do anything to the lower half. The motor only had about 60,000 miles on it and I bought it of a little old lady (original owner) so I'm pretty certain it wasn't run very hard. THis is really my first project and didn't know much before I started. I simply read as much as I could, took my time, and thanks to everybody on the forum answering all my dumb question, I was able to get it done.
In the future I would like to add a cam and a few extras, but I am very satisfied with what has been done to this point.
Thanks for all the help.
I bought the chrome T's at a car swap, you just have to make sure they are the longer ones so they clear the valve cover. The valve cover on our 6's are a little taller than most V8 valve covers.
Dude,
That really looks nice. I can tell you have a great deal of time and effort into that motor.
Congrat on a job well done.
Ted
That really looks nice. I can tell you have a great deal of time and effort into that motor.
Congrat on a job well done.
Ted
Beautiful!
8)
8)
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Anonymous
Guest
looking clean , verry nice aspecialy the heather !!
let us now how it runs!
let us now how it runs!
! Seems you didin't miss a thing on that car,did ya 
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Anonymous
Guest
Thanks! I guess the title of he post should of been more like "she's all done, FOR NOW (PICS)"
