small rebuiling a 200 cid 1981 engine

[canvaspaul]

You can hook it up or just loosen the choke cover screws and turn cover so that the choke blade is opened up all the way.

This is the solution, no choke, probably I was to careful in turning the choke (to disable it) Put the vacuum hoses back in place like in my car with one vacuum line closed up.
First turn over and the engine runs with the normal gas consumption, runs quit well. tomorrow I will get the engine on working temperature en make a small film and measure the compression and post it.

 

[JackFish]

Your carb might require some adjustment, like the float level.
Also, I have had the inlet needle valve get stuck open on those carbs too.

 

[canvaspaul]

have let the engine run for a short time so I can take the compression with a little warm engine
This is the result.
cil 1: 160 psi
cil 2: 160 psi
cil 3: 160 psi
cil 4: 155 psi
cil 5: 160 psi
cil 6: 155 psi

I think not to bad, at least the are all the same.

 

[bubba22349]

Thats very good and it should run smooth if the carb and distrib. is working correctly

 

[canvaspaul]

http://youtu.be/3JG824UQdp8

It's running, but fine tunnig must be done.
I am confidant it will run good so now I'm going to strip the engine and make it good looking.
In the video you can hear a sound coming from the automatic gearbox when I chance gear.
Can you make something out this sound?
I used cheap transmission oil dextron IID just to keep the tranny wet. level is ok.
If this is bad I have to buy dissent oil when I'm finished clean and painting the engine.

 

[bubba22349]

Can you make something out this sound?

Sounded like you were trying to put the trans into park without first stopping trans output rotation. Therefore the parking pawl was grinding against lock ring teeth. In a car you would be able to put your foot on the brake so drive shaft isn't moving before putting it into park.

 

[JackFish]

Nonono don't put dexron in a C4 transmission. :nono:
Drain and flush it as much as possible. Use nothing other than "Type F" transmission fluid.

 

[chad]

2 X what he said!

"...don't put dexron in a C4 transmission..."
It actually duz make a difference.

"...Use nothing other than "Type F" transmission fluid."
<F> may stand for ford, at any rate is sold all over (I hope in ur geographic area or on-line).

Today there are fluids that will work cross make (Chebby, BMW, Hondahahahaha) but I don't believe these products are 'back compatable" with a 30 yr or so old automatic transmission.

 

[canvaspaul]

Ok, that's clear I didn't know. (F stands for ford).
So every F type transmission oil is OK? I can buy this kind of oil also over-here but with no additional info just transmission oil Type F.

http://www.olietekoop.nl/olie/product/160

Just F type, also not very expensive.

If I leave de oil in without running the engine is also a problem, out do I have to drain the gearbox asap.

Thanks guys

 

[chad]

Ok, that's clear I didn't know. (F stands for ford).
So every F type transmission oil is OK? I can buy this kind of oil also over-here but with no additional info just transmission oil Type F.
http://www.olietekoop.nl/olie/product/160
Just F type, also not very expensive.
If I leave de oil in without running the engine is also a problem, out do I have to drain the gearbox asap.
Thanks guys

(every F type)? Yes, I believe so. Sorry, not so good w/German reading (i went 2 ur link) - it should be F type for B 4 1983 applications, "M2C33F" compatible or for "M2C33" specifications.
No, no special price.
No it's OK if not running the engine but should come out (as the parts rub each other they need a ford specific group of properties)
(gearbox asap)? anywhere the Dexron (for Chebbies not Fords) went it should come out and B replaced w/"Type F". Just touching the tranny prts is OK ( I don't believe it will 'carode' or otherwise damage them). The problem is @ "friction time".
Measure the amount drained out, check the capacoty rated for this specific transmission to see if U got it all out, fill w/the recommended amount. I'm not sure where the engine/transmis. came from or it's history. Because of this I would try to fill the Tq Converter as well (thru a seperate effort). It will not B filled by a simple "pour in the fill hole" effort.
Gotta go 2 wrk, C U later, keep talkin to us -

 

[canvaspaul]

Ì will change the oil as soon I will take of the complete transmission from the engine, this was the idea anyway.
Then the converter can be easily be made empty, the transmission was completely drained when I bought the engine (together with the transmission)
So I need to fill it up before I could test if the engine is still OK.

History unknown, only info I got from the guy was the engine and tranny are OK.(first see then believe)

Let me show you why I choice the oil I used.

And somewhere I see something like Dextron II is the same as ATF D.

so the info in the book is not completely correct.

Thanks for the info

 

[bubba22349]

The book is right Ford went to the Dextron II in the 1980's tran's. In the early Ford auto tran' es type F was used.it's all about the slippage built into the oil.

 

[chad]

"...in the 1980's tran's.
Isn't '83 the break yr?

Oh, hey, they got it in '80 AND '81,
hmmm - I stand corrected. Hafta down load that lill chart U put up Paul - if it's correct...
never had a new enuff ford to know that (my '94 Wolwo took '70s Type F, tho).
Thanks bubba

 

[bubba22349]

You might also check the end of the dip stick they use to have etched or stamped on them the type fluid to use. As a side note back in the day many GM racers would also use type F in their auto trans'es to make them shift harder and last longer. I prefer to use type F, a shift kit, and an auxiliary trans cooler. More slippage = heat and excessive heat will = an early trans failure. Lastly back than it was the older Dextron or 1 since the 1980's we have Dextron II and it's a different formula Than the old Dextron.

 

[chad]

OK, back again...
No need to drain the tq converter (or case).

How would a converter be drained if the whole thing were in a vehicle?
Would U just drain & fill (w/proper fluid) the case, run ( couppla minutes) just standing still but thru all gears
and drail/fill a few more times? or would you hafta "take it down", pull the converter out, empty, fill, replace?
Not used to auto transm. servicing.
Thanks,

 

[bubba22349]

That should be easy as Fords have a drain plug or 2 in the torque convertor remove the inspection cover on the bottom of block plate and turn flywheel until you see the drain plug. IMOP It's not really worth changing the trans fuild if you don't also drain the convertor too.

 

[chad]

thanks bubs! Didn't know - my tq converter ('77 C4 sittin on a stand outside) wuz stolen.

Now back to yer regularly scheduled "get this 200 motor in & runnin" program.
(as said on early television after commercials).

 

[canvaspaul]

Just some info that's on the dipstick from the tranny.

ESP-M2C138-CJ

Just to get some more confusion.

The engine runs fine, going to take it apart and give a good cleaning and spray everything back to factory colour.
Only thing is that the winter is coming and the temperature starts to drop below 0 Celsius at night and I have only a small heater so not good enough to paint.
will just put the primer on, and the smaller parts I will spay inside the house (when the wife is working :nono: )
take up the discussion what tranny oil to use later.

Keep you up to date.

 

[woodbutcher]

Hi canvasPaul.IIRC(and maybe FTF or one of the tranny gurus can clarify)If you rebuild a tranny that originally used Type F fluid,you can use the fluid of your choice.Dextron and ect.as you won`t be mixing the different types of fluid,as from what I understand the new clutch and band material is compatible with all fluid types.Hope this helps.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

 

[canvaspaul]

I'm taking all stuff of the engine, but this one is not very willing to come loss, starting to wonder to turn this bold loss clockwise ore anti clockwise clockwise is it very hard. Use a longer pipe?

Gr Paul