So I have been playing around... here is where I am at now!

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
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Yeah the valve cover has baffles on both ends. But the roller rockers shoot oil up and it runs down the valve cover, and the little pocket on the top of the baffle fills with oil and sucks right through like a straw!

I think I have a work around for the PCV valve, going to raise it up out of the cover using a breather cap!


But I am now unsure about everything on this engine, could be once things burn off and clean up I was fine all along, and the oil was making the engine smoke and burn poorly... the plugs when I cahnged them yesterday actually look pretty good on the interior, if they were not covered in a think black oil layer... hard to tell at this point!

Once this is fixed I will put some miles on it with the 61 jets and the 6.5 power valve and see what happens.

Take it from there...

J.
 
Have you considered a PCV system that vents to the atmosphere, and has a catch can for oil that is splashed through?
 
Some of those aftermarket chrome valve covers don't have baffles. Without a baffle, the PCV will suck oil, not fumes!

There is a grommet available with a baffle that may fix that problem but you may need to use a remote PCV. Instead of plugging directly into the vavle cover it goes in the line itself. That allows you to use a different cap that is in itself baffled.

Some of your tuning issues may disappear once the oil control is licked.
 
Jack is on to something. I never thought about that from looking at the pictures. I ran a chrome cover with that same problem. I swapped it out because of soem fitting issues (leaked oil around the sides too) and put my original one back on. No more oil up the proverbial PCV.

Slade
 
Well it was definitely sucking oil.

I pulled the line off the carb and it was full...
The chrome valve cover has baffles, but they do not keep out the oil shooting off the roller rockers.

I looked into a bunch of ideas.

Right now I insalled a special grommet that raises the valve out of the valve cover about 1/2" I am going to see if this helps. If not I will look into the other ideas?

How do you run a PCV in-line?
I saw a chrome cap that has a line for the PCV but I cannot figure out where to go from there?


I am hopeful this grommet will get the valve up high enough to stop it, if it does not then I will look into other ideas.
 
Next time you go to the parts store, look at the rack with all the PCV valves. You'll see several that have hose ends on both sides, mostly for older Mopars, I think. One of those could be used with a different cap on the valve cover to help eliminate the oil sucking problem.
 
There are also PCVs with a threaded end that can be installed directly into the Carb adapter plate. I had one of these on my factory one-barrel adapter plate. On a 250 2V I think you would have to drill and tap your own which makes the in line PCV a simpler option.
 
PCV's aside, it has been commented often enough on the GM sixes with Y/Ts that oil flow through the pushrods can be excessive. Some people obstruct the passage slightly with a pipe cleaner in each pushrod. Seems to follow that a six with oiling overkill would benefit from the same.

Adam.
 
The old 2.3 ohc pinto motor have a inline pcv valve. Iwould give that a try.
Don't get too carryed away with restricting oil flow to the upper end of the engine, Its what cools the rockers,and valvesprings. Oil is what cools the bottom end bearings too the coolant only really cools the upper part of the block and the head castings. Jim
 
Well today was by far the best day in terms of solving problems.


Here is what I did:

Installed a MOPAR cap and inline PCV into the valve cover and put in a new breather cap on the other end.
Installed the 4.5 Power valve and 61 jets.
Timed the engine to 16 degrees initial with everything plugged and the rpms bumping in around 800... (it was rough, and I had to back it down a little more, because when I pulled the rpms down to 800 the timing moved down 4 degrees...)
Adjusted the Air mixture again... I changed the drivers side needle because it was hard to turn, and put in a new one, and it was much easier to turn... it turned out to be bent very slightly not much, but some.
Set the rpm to 2400 and closed about half the carb mouth before it sputtered... I dropped each screw 1/4 turn and got it over to almost 3/4 covered there... (Thanks RED this works nice...)
Dropped the idle and let it sit for an hour... went inside and took a break.



So now it was all put together and tuned up.
I had let it run in at that 2400 speed for about ten minutes... I wanted to make sure there was some time to burn some oil, and test the PCV.
When I went out tonight, I pulled the line off the carb and it was clean.
I started it up, and held the accel for a few seconds... it idled pretty good at 800.
Then a big cloud of smoke poured out the back of the car... it was not black, it was white/blue like I had always gotten, it is not cold enough to have been the environment... after about 20 seconds it stopped completely.
Idle is getting better at this point.
I left the house and drove off around the hood for about twenty minutes.
It was great.

Here is what it did:

Stopped the vibrartions. it was starting to idle smoother, although a little rough but that is also the flowmasters.. they give the engine a tin ticking like sound at certain points around the car, but they hum nicely from inside and at good rpms.
No smoke after that first batch... There was still some oil in the carb base I cleaned most of it.. but it had some in there...
Runs better... has more power and the power is even, it had a kind of grind to any heavy throttle before, like a sluggish feel. really peppy now.
After about ten minutes it started to smooth out more, and the rpms went up it started to idle around 1000 at most stops... very smooth and sounds great. I pulled into a church lot popped the hood and put the idle down to 800 about 1/4 turn or so. It still had a good idle.
It runs cooler.
Smells better. Not so much gas smell as before.
Drove to the coffee shop and let it sit for twenty minutes.
Just came home, it fired up nice, drove great here, and turned of no problems... it was the best ride I have had yet. And the flat throttle at 3000 feels gone, I will try that one some more tomorrow.



BUT:
Now that the engine is burning cleaner, remember it has been getting oil in there since I first fired it up and has only just now gotten a clean stream of fuel.
I can hear a hiss around the carb, I could never hear it before, things were too loud and knocky. I got a hose down in there and it seems to be the adapter plate on the back side.

Here is my dumb question for the day.
Do you guys use any sealer on carb gaskets? I usually do not. I install them and torque them to spec, but I leave out the sealer.
Should I seal the lower gasket at least, since it will likely not come off? If you usually do seal these, I may have found the source of some other troubles.


But I think the oil issue was a major factor in the reasons it ran rough, smoked, and had some surge... also the power valve made a big difference on the hill at my house.. I can actually put it in 1st gear and climb that hill with the clutch all the way out, I had to ride it before or I would be in the backyard.
I am taking it for a highway drive in the morning, an hour out to have the exhaust tweked a little... should know better in the afternoon if this continues to improve.
I still think I will pull the valve cover this weekend and change the oil for the 500 mile mark. I will measure how far the vales are opening and compare that to my cam sheet, never hurts, and I have a digital micrometer now, so I can get them all listed.
 
Glad to hear it's better now. sometimes it takes a good bit of tuning to get the mixture, fuel curve, and timing right.

Could be you have a leaking carb gasket. They sometimes collapse under vacuum. I don't use anp;
 
I think I still might need to recurve the dizzy, maybe even adjust the jets again... but for now it is running very well.

I think I am going to put some miles on it and watch it closely.
I will still take the measurements, and do some checking on the carb base... maybe I will pull that over the weekend...

once I get a few thousand miles on it, I will get it to a dyno and set it up properly.

I may also get a 500 cfm holley, I think the air flow at idle is my greatest possibility at this point, I could look into drilling the throttle plates, but I think jetting and dyno tuning on a 500 will yeild better results, the 350 will get me to the mileage mark I need for now.

Just going to drive it regularly now and see what happens.
 
The real cure is EFI! :D

bolt on one of these to your current manifold and take control of your fuel and ignition once and for all!

hly-950-23s.jpg
 
How hard is that to setup Jack? I have been thinking about it....


and where would a kit like that be found?
 
That's a photo of the Commander 950 700cfm system, but if I were doing it, I would probably build a Megasquirt with some sort of ignition control appended to it.

EFI is just so easy to tune. Little lean? punch a button. Litlle more advance? punch a button.
 
Jim,

I've used sealer on the gaskets before. I stopped when I has removing carbs every other week because of problems with the Offy. Now I don't use sealer, haven't notice a real change.

I think that system jack should mounts on a square bore 4V intake. You'd have to cut up the Aussie intake some. It is a nice system. They make one that flows around 650 CFM that's for the 120-250 HP range. Probably perfect for a hot Aussie.

Slade
 
I like this one... thanks RED!

670 CFM Pro-Jection®
Two Barrel Digital
GM, Chrysler, Ford & AMC V-8s
<img src=http://www.image-hosting.net/images/messageboard/jbowhall/hly-502-20s.jpg>

This would work great and require less cutting on the manifold if any.. seems to mount right into the 2 barrel location.

Might require some looking into.

I would definitely get a better idle, response, and mileage too... as a matter of fact I would probably save enough on the mileage to pay for it! :shock:



I took the car out into the country this morning and put about 120 miles on it...

things are getting even better... sounds like a different engine... smoothing out at idle even more today. I am going to take some timing and vacume readings in the morning... see where it is at... the idle has floated again up to 1100 rpms...

No more smoke though. Nothing at all.
 
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