So it begins

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Anonymous

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Well, I've finally gotten to the point, that Tues. when I get my block back from the machinist I can begin my rebuild. So here is a list of goodies that will be the muscle under the hood of my 67 stang. FSPP headers, 272 cam, high capacity oil pan, roller tipped rockers, pushrods, lifters, dual roller timing chain, hipo balancer (the balancer isn't in yet), Clifford exhaust port divider, Weber 38 carb, custom Ross Racing Pistons, Comp valve springs, Pertronix Ignitor 1, flamethrower coil, flamethrower wires, T-5 tranny from 89 5.0 GT. I have more goodies too but thoose are the main ones. I cain't wait I just got my cylinder head and flywheel back today, and Tuesday the block is supposed to be done. I had the block milled .040 over. I had hardened valve seats put in and a 3 angle valve job. I feel like a kid in a candy store. Any coments or suggestions that might help me along the way will be appreciated. Even after I get the engine work done I have to put in a new floor pan, and put a repair quarter panel on the rear. Then their is suspension, brakes, interior, a little more body work, new tires and wheels, new windshield, and a paintjob left to do. I probably find more as I go :( ... but it's ok one thing at a time and I'll get finished. This has been a complete restoration of my stang. So I'm not gonna rush it and it will get done.
 
Hey Dstud...

My brother lives in Belleville. And I grew up in Ypsi-tucky.

Anywho..... where did you get your machine work done? I am part way thru my rebuild too, block was decked 0.030 and the bearings checked. I have the balance to do and then the re-assembly of the short block. Then the head.

Drop me a line.

Mugsy
 
Well I got the pistons, rods, and rings for about 700 from P.A.W., expensive but they are custom made for the compression ratio I want and notched for valve clearance, you can really tell they are quality made. I will post a pic when I get a chance. I had them made to bring my comp ratio to 10.1:1 since I have place near me that sells unleaded 100 octane race gas that is legal for street use.
 
Hey mugsy, I got my machine work done at a place called AmCar in the westland-canton area. It is on N. Hix Rd just north of Ford Rd. I can get you the phone # if you like. They do really good work, I just got back my block and crank so I have everything to start my rebuild now, I can't wait.
 
does P.A.W. have a website ? and did you say you had the rods costom made ?
 
The pistons and rings (I think they are since i had them made for .040 over) are custom made, i didn't have the money for a kit that came with custom race rods so I got stock ones :evil: . PAW has a couple racing kits for the 144, 170, 200, and 250. They are expensive but you can't beat the quality. They have custom racing piston kits(custom pistons, chrome moly rings, tri-metal rod and main bearings) (which I got), racing crank kits (the piston kit plus custom rods and crank), racing master kit (the crank kit plus performance cam and lifters, performance timing chain set, performance oi pump, gasket set). One thing I meant to ask but forgot when I ordered my kit was about the master kit, it says it comes with a performance oil pump. Could this mean there is a performance pump for us inliners? If anyone else is interested in finding out let me know and I will call about it. Here is the PAW web address: [http://www.pawengineparts.com/] But they make every part to the specifications you give them, and they make it to whatever size and compression ratio you want. Also if it is going to be N/A, blown or have the bottle on it. The PAW cataloge is huge like 1200 pages. They isn't a whole lot of stuff for our engines, but enough to make it worth your while if you want to spend some cash on your engine.[/url]
 
I've heard a lot of Bent-8 VMFers using PAW. I've never checked them out, but I always mean to.

Also, do you really need 100 octane for 10:1? Couldn't you get by with 92-93? Just curious.

Slade
 
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