So many questions...

[Anonymous]

How hard is it to take the cylinder head off of a 200 I6?

I plan on using harder valve seats instead of just putting in inserts... I am, however, considering going with a 250, as I want power down low instead of revving it high.

How long is the waiting list for the Aussie head? Am I just better off waiting for the FSPP head? I don't care either way, but I plan on using downdraft carbs instead of sidedraft now. After all, I plan on running boost. The log manifold doesn't seem to allow for ANY modding to it at all, and fabbing a way to attach a 300 I6 intake manifold looks to be more work than it is worth.

Is there any way to use a proportioning valve instead of whatever mechanism distributes pressure to the brakes in the Maverick without switching to power brakes?

Thanks in advance... but last of all... does the Performance Falcon handbook include maintenence and such in it?

 

[addo]

It's easier to remove the head if you take out all 14 head bolts first.

The Aussie head was last offered in 1975 or so, and they are not common - even in Australia. Like a vintage wine, the offering of a new "crop" of heads will augment the appeal of originals, not replace them.

You may fit a proportioning valve to manually operated brakes no problem, but it still requires a competent person to do so. Power brakes are the closest to a free lunch of anything on your car.

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Vertigoomg:

The valve seat inserts are Hardened seats. Later heads came from Dearborn with Hardened seats. Installing hard insert in earlier heads is a common upgrade for cylinder heads made prior to No-lead gas.

The log on USA heads is a minor hurdle to other intake options, as proven by the ingenuity of posters on this forum. The variety continually amazes me. Where there is a will there is a way.

The Performance Handbook does not go into maintainance. You should buy a Shop Manual for your vehicle for details on general maintainance and repair.

Keep those questions coming.

Adios, David

 

[Anonymous]

Damn. Looks like I'll be fabbing an intake manifold, then. Either that, or I can just use a 2-barrel and force-feed it for even fuel distribution... or something else. I'll come up with some hair-brained idea. If worse comes to worse, I'll just get a 300.

 

[mugsy]

Removing the cylinder head is pretty easy. Start by disconnecting the negative battery cable, draining the coolant, disconnect the upper radiator hose/take the t-stat housing off, disconnect the throttle linkage, remove the carb or just disconnect the fuel line, disconnect the water temp wire, take the valve cover off, take the rocker arm assembly off, and probably the hardest part- disconnect the exhaust pipe/manifold (whichever is easist), and then finally remove the head bolts. You might need a large breaker bar to break them free.

Pretty easy actually!

The 300 is a much longer engine than the small six. The intake manifold will not match the intake ports of a small six. The only way to use a 300 manifold would require some serious welding. Its not worth it.

As for the installing a 300 in place of the 200, it can be done. But you will have to worry about it fitting into the engine bay, getting engine mounts that fit, the trannys I *think* don't match up... again, its possible, but lots of work.

tanx,
Mugsy 8)


Have fun.

 

[Anonymous]

I think the 300 is about the way to go... if I plan on working on the motor myself, unfortunately... oh well...

 

[Anonymous]

About the brakes: if you have a power brake system, it won't care too much about head mods, because it stores vacuum inside of itself. If your cam is real radical, though, you will lose some of the power boost.

If you are changing from front drum brakes to front disc brakes, look into heavier springs on the rear drums instead of a proportioning valve. This will delay the rear drums a little, which is exactly what Ford did in production (they did not use delay valves like Chrysler or GM). If you have 13" wheels, get the brake spring kit (NAPA) for a 1978-1980 Fairmont station wagon (rear wheels). If you have 14" wheels, try the ones from the 1980 T-Bird. If 15" wheels, get the ones for the 1979 T-Bird or LTD. All of these are heavier than the springs found on all-drum setups.