solid motor mounts

Mustang Boy

Well-known member
does anyone know where i can get a pair of solid motor mounts for a 1966 mustang with a 200


any help is appreciated
 
WHY, is it a full race car?

these are not made, I don't think, you will have to make them, but also you would need to run a solid trans mount too, otherwise you'll break the trans case. on a full race car, solids are practicle, but on a street car, the torque loss from the engine twist is minimal, and you won't chatter your teeth at idle.
 
You don't need a solid trans mount with solid motor mounts... It's the other way around. If you use a solid trans mount without solid motor mounts, you will break things.

However, while my engine does move around a lot under accleration, Im not sure if going with solid mounts make sense.
 
i was just wondering cause i think that is the reason my exhaust keeps coming off cause i think it is rattling it loose somehow and solid ones would shake the whole car and not just the exhaust


plus i would like to have the car chattering at idle its one of those things i can deal with cause im young and naive still
 
they'd be more harm than good.
but what i did after breaking a brand new mount in my truck was i took out the pin and put in a 1/2" bolt with a locknut - this tightened up the movement of the engine to MAYBE 1/4 of what it was before i broke the first mount (then i bought a new one and the next day its pin broke so i had to customize it)
--josh
 
What about urethane mounts? They'd tighten things up considrably. I have to warn you, though, that I just installed a urethane trans mount and it's really bothering me: The harmonic vibrations it transmits at certain rpms are really annoying.
 
If your exhaust is coming loose- make sure that the little bracket that bolts to the block and clamps to the exhaust pipe near the donut is still secure.
 
i have a pacemaker header and the exhaust pipe is held the outlets using muffler clamps and the one that fell off has fallen off before so we got a new clamp and used an impact to hold it on and it still rattled loose some how this time and came off and the clamp is still as tight as can be on the exhaust pipe
 
Try deformed nuts on the threads. New, not re-used. Or maybe even heavy-duty stainless band clamps.
 
Hi folks,newbie here.
When i had 460s i made me a braket which connects the frame to the cylinder head.Drivers side only..It allowed the motor to get down somewhat but stopped it from flippin..Not nearly as rough as solids.
OldSchoolOlli
 
Well, then you need to weld the headers to the pipe, or get flanges welded to both and bolt them together.

Probably what happened was the exhaust wasn't quite the right size, and the exhaust clamps can't shrink enough to compensate.

I've heard good things about clamps like these.
wlk-33240.jpg
 
well actually the exhaust was welded to the header but it made it a pain in the ass to do anything with the exhaust especially when we had to pull the tranny so we cut the welds and clamped the pipe back on and we cut slits in the edge of this side after it fell off the first time so it can clamp down harder
 
That's along the lines of what I was guessing. Flanges would be a good idea, all of the turbo places sell them. An OEM ball-and-socket type would work pretty well I think, and be cheap.
 
those Dynomax ( actully Walker Muffler ) clamps suck big time. they spread out the load far too evenly and don't hold anything, not to mention, they have this tar strip used to hold it togther, b4 you get the bolts in, and if you get any of this tar on the bolt, you CANNOT tighten or loosen without a lot of cranking. I bought these and used them on a 'temp' exhaust I put togther for my '51 Chevy, wish I bought regular U clamps, just in steel.
 
Hmm...some guys on here used them, said they worked well. I don't have any experience with them myself.

The best solution would still be flanges. I bet you could go to a muffler shop and pick some up from the trash for free.
 
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