stall Converter for a Turbo 6
- Thread starter XETURBO
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Anonymous
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i personly drive a manual turbo i6 but...
i have seen good results when a stall converter is rated to 500rpm below the rpm at which full boost occurs
so if ur car make its 15 psi max at 3000rpm then a 2500 stall converter is ideal
the idea or reasoning on this is that the turbo spins harder and better when you have the engine under load. so allowing the engine to rev up to close to max boost and then flooring it when the light goes green the engine will drop 200 or so rpm on launch so then the engine only has to spin up a further 700rpm to get the turbo on full boost whilst still allowing a wheelspin free launch.
setting up the converter to spin the engine past the full boost underload rpm point will mean you will leave the line on full boost which will make the car hard to launch.
i am not an expert on this as i have always had a manual/turbo i6 combination (i really dont like auto), but its just something i picked up from a couple of experienced racers.
cheers.joe.
i have seen good results when a stall converter is rated to 500rpm below the rpm at which full boost occurs
so if ur car make its 15 psi max at 3000rpm then a 2500 stall converter is ideal
the idea or reasoning on this is that the turbo spins harder and better when you have the engine under load. so allowing the engine to rev up to close to max boost and then flooring it when the light goes green the engine will drop 200 or so rpm on launch so then the engine only has to spin up a further 700rpm to get the turbo on full boost whilst still allowing a wheelspin free launch.
setting up the converter to spin the engine past the full boost underload rpm point will mean you will leave the line on full boost which will make the car hard to launch.
i am not an expert on this as i have always had a manual/turbo i6 combination (i really dont like auto), but its just something i picked up from a couple of experienced racers.
cheers.joe.
Hi,
I am no expert but these are my thoughts..
You need to be very carefull when selecting a stall for a turbo engine because of the torque difference between boost and no boost. As an example, my friends turbo cortina had a 2800 stall and wouldn't stall over 2200rpm due to the savage lack of power down low. On the other hand, if he changed to a 3500 stall the engine would have enough revs to start producing boost, to produce more revs, more boost, more revs until it reached 3500. At this point the engine is at its peak so it is possible that the stall speed would be higher than 3500 making it even more difficult to take off without wheelspin.
This problem is even worse with LPG because it produces less power than petrol when it is out of boost or when its hot. (LPG turbo engines turn to pigs at low RPM's when the engine/intake are hot). With LPG you could end up with a stall that only works correctly in winter when the air is cold and the engine can produce enough power to get over the boost/no boost hump.
So, If you are using LPG i suggest you increase the stall 200 - 300 rpm to cover the reduced power when out of boost.
The best way to pick the correct stall is to get your engine dynoed, then contact a specialist with the printout.
I am planing on using a 2500 stall on my cortina based on the fact that I was getting 4 - 5 PSI when stalling the standard convertor.
Like I said..I am no expert, so if anyone out there knows exactly how to choose the correct stall, PLEASE talk to us.
Bye
I am no expert but these are my thoughts..
You need to be very carefull when selecting a stall for a turbo engine because of the torque difference between boost and no boost. As an example, my friends turbo cortina had a 2800 stall and wouldn't stall over 2200rpm due to the savage lack of power down low. On the other hand, if he changed to a 3500 stall the engine would have enough revs to start producing boost, to produce more revs, more boost, more revs until it reached 3500. At this point the engine is at its peak so it is possible that the stall speed would be higher than 3500 making it even more difficult to take off without wheelspin.
This problem is even worse with LPG because it produces less power than petrol when it is out of boost or when its hot. (LPG turbo engines turn to pigs at low RPM's when the engine/intake are hot). With LPG you could end up with a stall that only works correctly in winter when the air is cold and the engine can produce enough power to get over the boost/no boost hump.
So, If you are using LPG i suggest you increase the stall 200 - 300 rpm to cover the reduced power when out of boost.
The best way to pick the correct stall is to get your engine dynoed, then contact a specialist with the printout.
I am planing on using a 2500 stall on my cortina based on the fact that I was getting 4 - 5 PSI when stalling the standard convertor.
Like I said..I am no expert, so if anyone out there knows exactly how to choose the correct stall, PLEASE talk to us.
Bye
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