Wanted Sunnen AN112

J

JayB1993

My son and I are rebuilding our first engine together - more as a learning experience for both of us. It's a six...but in full transparency it's a Jeep 4.0. I joined here because I have been looking at purchasing a classic Mustang and those with a six tend to be more in my budget. I thought I would learn a bit about the 200ci here before taking that leap though. Does anyone have a good used Sunnen hone (that is powered by drill) that they want to part with? Thanks.
 
you might just consider renting it?
try your normal auto parts places.

I just got a fuel gauge setup from a place that rents tools ( Canadian tire) they had a cylinder hone there too so it was on my mind and I was thinkin to myself , "if I buy it will I ever need one again? " it was half price.

They seemed to be turning over their rental tool stock or maybe discontinuing it , not sure, but they do rent them..

Im probably too far away, but I'd suggest you check locally and think about just renting it if you don't see another engine rebuild coming up..

maybe its a thing you don't need to own?
I decided I'll buy one if I need it, as I may not, ever.
 
That type of hone isn't really suitable for home use, its a rigid hone which is meant to be used after the cylinder has been bored, it only works with bores that are dead straight and round, no worn cylinder is going to be like that. If you want to simply break the glaze, then a brush hone is better for that. Also it IS NOT advised to hone the bores while the engine is in the car, as all the grit will not be able to be cleaned out properly and result in damage to rings and bearings. IMO if you need to refurbish the bores, do a proper job and get a machine shop to bore and hone a bare block. The Sunnen hone is nearly $1000 from what I can see! here in Australia, Repco put out a comprehensive text on engine reconditioning, in that they advise NOT to hone with the engine in the car, for the reasons Ive explained.
 
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aussie7mains said:
That type of hone isn't really suitable for home use, its a rigid hone which is meant to be used after the cylinder has been bored, it only works with bores that are dead straight and round, no worn cylinder is going to be like that. If you want to simply break the glaze, then a brush hone is better for that. Also it IS NOT advised to hone the bores while the engine is in the car, as all the grit will not be able to be cleaned out properly and result in damage to rings and bearings. IMO if you need to refurbish the bores, do a proper job and get a machine shop to bore and hone a bare block. The Sunnen hone is nearly $1000 from what I can see! here in Australia, Repco put out a comprehensive text on engine reconditioning, in that they advise NOT to hone with the engine in the car, for the reasons Ive explained.
Click to expand...
I am here, really, really late. But just had to comment on this post. What you've said above, no everything you've said above is either completely wrong, or false. I have in fact rebuilt probably 10+ gas and diesel engines using that exact hone mentioned. The one that really fits the theme,
is the 1981 VW 1.6 diesel I honed IN-CAR, all 4 cylinders .020 oversize using diamond stones and a DIY fixture that bolted to the deck surface.
The hone was run with a drill motor, and stroked with an electric gear motor (somewhat simplified explanation to save typing). An AN112 is indeed a Ridgid Hone, and can be used to Correct out-of-round and taper conditions in any cylinder, fresh bored or worn. To say the AN112 'only works with with bores that are dead straight and round' is poppycock. That tool is used to MAKE cylinders straight and round if they are not. I say this based on decades of experience with several different types of honing machines I use in my business. I was moderately diligent to clean and wash down the grit from the crank throws, crankcase, etc. But lets not forget modern engines have oil filters that trap dirt and grit. I changed the oil in 200 miles. That engine (VW diesel) went on to log over 130,000 more miles. Some in the car it was in at the time, and some in another car after the first one rusted to oblivion. Taking the block to a machine shop (machine shop owner here) is the best method. But honing in-car is very much doable as well. I saved time and money leaving the engine in the car. Project was a complete success. If I was the OP, I would not let your advise stop me from getting a AN112 and learning how to use it to accomplish the job, while learning a new skill.
 
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