Swapping the old I6 for a new one ???"s

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I've spent the past ten years dealing with "old" parts for my '65 stang. It's time for change to "new". What are my options for installing something like a 4.3 V6 or Thunderbird 6 w/turbo? Will a new engine (be it a 6 cyl.) need different mounting? All info is greatly appreciated.
 
When you say "new", would a rebuilt I-6 do ? There are a few places that sell remanufactured straight sixes. Or you can even have yours rebuilt. I went with a rebuilt 200 for my 68, rather than try to dump a 302 I had from another Stang. It was definitely easier to pay the slightly higher cost of purchasing the 200 and have it dropped in, versus a remanufactured V-8, then to pay for all the "upgrade" parts for the whole car to accomodate a V-8.

If you went with a V-6, it definitely would be different than the "normal" swaps to V-8s. Either way, you would need to upgrade your 66 to V-8 specs (brakes, rearend, maybe suspension), especially since it sounds as if your goal is to increase power.

Let us all know how it goes & what you decide! 8)
 
Personally, I thought about this for awhile before. I'd look for a late model mustang (99+) with the V-6. That engine stock made 197BHP Net. It is a 302 cut down basically (actually, same basic block) so the mounting points may line up for V8 mounts for your car. It is a very peppy engine and is fairly light (lighter then our I6s IIRC). There are also a lot of upgrades for it. It is a 3.8L V-6.

Slade
 
More different than similar to the 5.0/302, really, the only thing that they share in common is the bellhousing pattern and the oil filter size.....

The 99+ motor output is rated fairly high, but the high hp output is largely attributed to the dual inlet manifold and returnless EFI system.....not easily integrated into an early car. Drive one and you'll see that it really feels rather flat, esp in a 3500 lb Mustang.

I think the V8 is an easier swap, considering the fabrication you have to do to make things fit.

Really, the easiest thing is to modernize the inline 200. A little head work, headers, electronic ignition, and a decent carb are all it takes to make it a good performer and reliable transportation.
 
Jack,

I'd have to disagree with with the comments on the performance of the 3.8 V-6. We have a 99 Mustang Convertible. The heaviest of the mustangs (except V-8 verts). The V-6 will get that car moving pretty fast. Good amounts of torque. Even with 255/45 ZR 17 Pirelli tires on dry pavement, still extremely easy to spin the tires shifting into 2nd, and I don't mean just barking tires...spinning tires and car going sideways.

I was under the impression that the V-6 shared similar mounting pattern as the 5.0 did in the early SN95 stangs. I'll check my buddies 95 5.0 when he gets back.

Agree that a carb V-8, or even 5.0 swap would be far easier then trying to mate a late model V-6 into a classic. If you are going through that much trouble, might as well put a V-8 in...it would be easier, and more potential.

I had to say it...but there is a point on the performance curve where the V-8 swap has to be considered. Where is that point...well, that depends on each person.

Slade
 
you see, my I-6 has been upgraded. During the rebuild it was bored .030 and installed a Crane RV cam, '78 250 head rebuilt w/ tri-angle valve seats, petronix ignition, mallory hi-perf. coil, 6 to 1 header w/ glasspack and the biggest 1 barrel carb. Sure this car is alot faster than before the upgrades, but far from fast enough. During the past 12 yrs has never been dependable, spent more time parked and broke down than it has been driven. A high perf. I-6 may be all the performance some guys need but I drive 80-90 MPH for 20-30 min on Bay Area, Ca. frwys to and from work and everywhere else. The I-6 has been a disappointment for me. Thanks for the info bros'
 
Boy, that's sad.

Can't argue with your experiences, Xpolsiv65. My 250 was rebuilt before I got it, and has been so reliable, aside from some 'backyard butcher' doing the head gasket in.

The 3.8 'Essex' V6 is an optimised, built for no rod offset block. It mayt have a 90 degree angle and the same mount positions, but it has an offset phasing between each banck of cylinders. On the good old Windsor, the cylinders are split one half cylinder. On the V6, it is some thing like t=one half cylinder, plus 100 thou for the 30 degree offset crank pins. That's why the block on this engine is so amazingly light. There is no fat at all. The steering would be nice and light with a such a light engine.

The block isn't bullet proof, but is good enough for most people. Just remember, Noise Vibration and Harshness is worse in a 65 Mustang because the spring tower braces and firewall transmit vibration back to the driver. It's not really an issue with an in-line six or V8, but a V6 may be as noisey in your 65 as an early Pinto four or Mustang II 2.3.

Then theres the fuel tank return line, electric fuel pump, crash cut-out, EFI module and fitting the sump and drivers side header past the steering box. Do you want Maverick power steering or just run a 16:1 GTspec steering box. These engines have aready to run weight of around 310 pounds. The AOD adds over 100 pounds on a C4, while a T5, if you can get one for it, is about the same weight as a C4. The 200 weighes in at around 385 pounds, ready to run.
 
What about the Aussie Crossflow I6?

It's been done before.

See Ya,
Mike
 
Thanks for the details Xecute. My brother suggested I ask about the V6 swap, If I pulled the motor, the only thing going back in is a I-6 Xplosiv65.
 
If the 6 is not doing what you want it to do, why keep it? You'll only be disappointed again. Don't be afraid the the V-8 swap, especially if you need that kind of power. You probably won't hear that from many people here, but eventually there is a time where you have to face the reality that the 6 may not have enough power for you.

Slade
 
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