T5 Gearboxs

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Ok so I've read a bit on the differences between Aussie T5's (6cyl & 8) & now Im more confused that ever.
So basiclly the 6cyl T5 is crap, the V8 T5 is ok, But Is the US Mustang T5 the best thing to have?
Why I ask is, Im rebuilding my ute & with the motor rebuild Im hopeing for approx 250bhp @ 1bar boost (14.7psi). Am I asking to much from the 6cyl T5?
I really want to stick with the T5 as I dont want to use Jap parts (I just would do that to my babie!!) But as I dont have a g/box at all at the moment, My options are open to which T5 I can use.
Can I use a T5 out of the US with a 6cyl bellhousing?, Or the XR8 T5, or even the T5 out of a V8 Holden (Almost as bad as jap parts but not quite)

Suggestions, Recomedations please :D
 
Hello Deano (D1?). Dis is Deano too (D2?). I'm much like you, but live in the dark ages (dancin' knitting needles!), before OHC and all this scary techo-nogical stuff Ford has given us.

Anyway, all I know is the early XF to EL six cylinder T5's were just Aussie BTR cases with basic internals (so-called Non-World Class, similar to the 4-cyl Mustang 2.3 5-speed gearbox first seen in 1981). The US 5-speeder used in V8 5.0 Mustangs was the World Class T5, with better mainshaft and bearings and ratios. The Aussie T5's used in XR8's were full of imported internals, ex USA or Mexico, I think. Group N racers, the rare Falcon SS, ran the USA gear ratios and bearings with a six cylinder main shaft, according the StreetMachine. Only six specilist gearboxes were built. And that's all I know.

The latest XR6 T runs about 320 hp flywheel or 260 rear wheel hp, so I'd expect it is EB to AU XR8-spec.

Import stuff is really cheap. I get my US stuff from Gore's Charlton Autowreckers. I've got cross fire Chevy Corvette intakes (225 bucks) and AOD Ford transmissions (350 bucks) off them for a song. Perhaps a US-spec Mustang or TransAm/Camaro box will fit with a few modifications so the manishaft fits the crank flange. The issue is sticker shock. Everyone thinks they've got a gold mine with a T5.
 
i have been thinking:

as a temporary fix while i think about what to do about my box i need the ute for work and stuff, anda mate has a 4spd from V8 xe and will give me the box (in working order) for a slab how differnet will the bell housing be to the six and how much longer or shorter will it be overalll as i may need a different tail shaft?
 
discokin6, were is you man?

Um, dunno, but the bellhousing is different. Discokin6 gave us a picture a while back on Aussie T5's. I'd be doing an XE 4.1 manual bell, and shove in the SR as an intermediate step.

There is an 85 page rebuild manual if you check Ricksmol's posts, about four months ago. There is a PDF file with pages and pages of info for the US boxes. You could become the ace local T5 rebuilder with it!
 
cheers mate,

the t5 will be my holiday job, i want to do it myself so i can find out what there like and learn something new as well, the diagram in the factory manual looks a bit complicated but not too bad. hopefully i havent damaged any of the synchros or the gears in it i hate to think what they would cost, i did drain and chane the oil and didnt notice any metal floating around, i also put in a stabiliser that a local auto mob recommended so it does sound as bad as it did, and i am not going to give it a hard time while its like it either.

out of interst i just pulled apart a bw55 yes thats 55 froma 244 volvo taht my mate killed, the box was still wokring on 1 and r but not 2 and3 i reckoned he had might have slipped a band, but it was more than that, the band was mince meat and there were bits right through the tranny, ouch
 
the T5 will interchange with the single rail, the only difference is that on post-86 cars the cable is on the passenger's side and runs through the crossmember so it doesent clear the crossmember. The rear trans crossmember is different, but the single rail one is the same as the auto one and you can get them anywhere. Would you be interested in selling the V8 bellhousing and clutch release gear? I've been trying to track one down for a while now. Also, what oil did you use in your T5? The recommended oil is DexronII, but they will shift like you wouldn't believe with the 4 speed auto trans fluid (shell ATF XTR, castrol TQ95, etc) because it's friction modified. I tried it out of curiousity about 3 years ago and never looked back! Anyway, to convert from a T5 to a single rail, you don't even need to pull the bellhousing off the motor. just undo the 4 gearbox bolts and the rear mounts.
 
Is the T5 any longer than the Single rail? We have a SR in the van, but might change to a T5 one day.
 
it's a little bit longer from the front to the rear trans mount. On XE/F there is a different rear crossmember to account for this but maybe you can get around it by slotting the holes for the rubber mount.
 
little info ,

i did use a 5 gear box from a ford scorpio ! 75 € here ! the drive shaft from the 6 cyl fit right in it !! and the lengte is also good , only the stick is a little much back , almost hitting the sheet in the tunnel opening , btw did make a adapterplate to adapt the box to a 3.03 bellhouse !

LinkPhoto

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Snail racing,
Gotta agree with the crowd here.
The local T5 behind the six is crap.
When they let go.
Which is fairly often, when driven hard.
It costs a fortune to rebuild, just to get up to an acceptable standard.
8/900 Aussie dollars to rebuild is fairly common.
If you want reliably to handle alot of power.
Then the steel cased Jap five speeds are alot better.
P.S. Running auto trans fluid in the T5 is flirting will disaster.
Better gear selection or not.
Noel.
 
Snailracer,

I had a T5 in my turbo XE with prob 350+hp. I thrashed (and I mean THRASHED) the car daily for two years without any problems. I blew two diffs, but no gearbox troubles. One problem that I found with my T5 was that I could not flat change between gears. Every time I tried a flat change the clutch pedal would get stuck to the floor!!????? The clutch would only pop back up when the revs of the engine droped.

Does anyone know why this was happening?

I think you will end up with way more than 250HP on 1 BAR of boost :)

Regards
 
DEXRON II is the only fluid recommended for use in a T5! This is due to the plastic baulk rings that they use. If you use motor oil, or god help us, gear oil, thyese rings last about 1000km and btw cost A$250 each! If you doubt this, ring your local ford dealer. I used to work there and thats how i know this. Also, the only 6cyl T5 that I've ever seen blown up was in an EA s pack- the guy kept trying to get 6th at about 100mph. you see if you pull on the stick as you come out of 5th and reef it hard enough, it goes straight into reverse, which makes for a heel of a mess!
 
George":39xcphji said:
Snailracer,

I had a T5 in my turbo XE with prob 350+hp. I thrashed (and I mean THRASHED) the car daily for two years without any problems. I blew two diffs, but no gearbox troubles. One problem that I found with my T5 was that I could not flat change between gears. Every time I tried a flat change the clutch pedal would get stuck to the floor!!????? The clutch would only pop back up when the revs of the engine droped.

Does anyone know why this was happening?

I think you will end up with way more than 250HP on 1 BAR of boost :)

Regards

Yep. Possibly runout in the bell housing. The four bolts were out of line because two dowels were slightly out. The condition is normally found when gears fail to change properly. There are offset dowels available which centre the lay shaft, or main shaft, so that it is the centre of the unviverse, and not a revolving planet, if you get my drift!

There should be no more than 20 thou eccentricity (run-out) for an auto, 5 thou for a manual.

People who build adaptors understand that the bolts just clamp the gearbox, but the dowels are the key to holding the thing in line.

It can be rectified by offset dowels http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/drivetrain/Bellhousing02.html

Bellhousing12-sm.jpg
 
Hi all,
My brother in law in knee deep in T5 trans from XE to EDs that have destroyed them selves for many and various reasons.
Usually the shafts in the transmissions are beyond repair.
These are generally normal drivers who dont have 900 hp or drag race every weekend.
Just six cylinder falcons driven by people who didnt like autos.
Noel.
 
XECUTE":1kycjy2a said:
Ha ha. T5. tERMINATOR 5.

That's why I love autos. You can drive 'em like a forklift...

LMFAO

but can you heel toe 3 gears going into a 20 k an hour hairpin,

clutch it, drop the clutch ar 3k and have some tyre frying drift action on exit?

to me thats just too much fun to pass up, and the trail of blown gearboxes is worth it,

with the t5 oils

i swear by dexron III with a nulon g70 friction modifier additive as well, best to use,

fill up with dextron III but no nulon g70, first, drive around for 30 min using all gears (including reverse.... just not at 100 kph rofl ).

then drop the oil again, and fill with new dexron III and the g70 additive,

the box will love you for it and wont grenade when your pushing 400hp and snapping gears at 6300rpm :D :D :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :D :D :D

cheers.joe.
 
Yeah, well you drive like Aussies play cricket, throw everything at it and have a ball!

Me, I got put off manuals by the fact that I'm unco, and I always make a c*ck of myself when I miss a gearchange. With autos, its just mash and dash. Reactions and take-offs and the control of wheelspin is better at drags. Even my old 1800 Marina with BW35 could do a wicked burn-out. A manual needs to be piloted well to do a 'controlled burnoff'

But I double declutch well!


Anyways, you obviously have a spare wicket you use on the third pedal, but I don't want to go into the anatomicall reasons why.


If your gearbox goes missing....it was me!
 
Me I am just too damn lazy to drive a manual.
You coauld always.
Slam on the brakes, spin the steering wheel, pull it into low and full throttle away.
Noel.
 
I have a whole bunch of information about the australian model T5 gearboxes. Serial numbers, for different models etc. I don't have anywhere to host the info to make it readable on the site but if you email me at work I can send the info.

mwillia1@bechtel.com

I only have this address until the 19th of December 2003 and I don't check these forums very!

I currently have a T5 behind a turbo crossflow running 19.5 psi and making 400 rear wheel horsepower. The engine torque is around 840Nm and my XR6 gearbox is rated to 350Nm and it has held together for 2500kms. I have to admit though I would not dare to run the car with slicks using this box and I am in the process of fitting a C4 auto so I can get serious about drag racing.

You can also ring Moto Specs. They are the retail outlet for all Borg Warner BTR products now. The company split up into a number of divisions etc.

Phone numbers for Moto Specs are: Sydney (02) 9847 5730

Brisbane (07) 3630 1188

They can tell you torque ratings for various boxes.
 
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