the new turbo setup is complete! well sortof...
- Thread starter hasa68mustang
- Start date
grocery getter
Famous Member
i've read (somewhere) for every .10 in the turbine a/r you've changed when the boost would come on by 400rpm.
has anyone else heard of this general rule?
has anyone else heard of this general rule?
kirkallen143":1w35cs27 said:
Im not sure on the downsizing, Im thinking theres probably some option available. if worse comes to worse I can cut off the flange and do something different. lol bigger IS better RIGHT?! lol I mean I have a carb thats too big and a turbo thats too big... a fuel pump that makes too much fuel pressure... and a head that flows as much as a coffee stir stick.
I think for now Ill stick with this setup and do some other stuff to help with the turbine. what size converter would you recommend? I guess Ill have to get a converter and gears for my next purchase. as for the converter the car still must be able to drive down roads at 30, and be able to cruise down the highway at 70. with gears it would help some with the lower speeds keeping the rpms up. I understand about the driveability but as long as I can drive to a show once a month or so I would be happy.
you have an 8"....
get another third member and build it with some 4.10 gears and a mini spool. get a AL jack and some stands and hit the track that way. swap gears when you get there and then swap back to leave.
a buddy of mine's dad raced in the early 1980's they would swap in the 5.56 gears on friday and drive to the track (50-60 miles each way) race than drive back and swap back sunday evening.
all I need to swap gears is pop the wheels off, slide the axles out, and unbolt it. it is a bit of work but with pratice and a buddy I am sure you could speed it up
also depends how fast you want to spin on the way to the track. maybe a set of "highway tires" some TALL skinny truck tires would work. get like a 225/80 or so. will jack the rear up real high but give you a better gear ratio for highway driving (just swap on slicks at the track)
get another third member and build it with some 4.10 gears and a mini spool. get a AL jack and some stands and hit the track that way. swap gears when you get there and then swap back to leave.
a buddy of mine's dad raced in the early 1980's they would swap in the 5.56 gears on friday and drive to the track (50-60 miles each way) race than drive back and swap back sunday evening.
all I need to swap gears is pop the wheels off, slide the axles out, and unbolt it. it is a bit of work but with pratice and a buddy I am sure you could speed it up
also depends how fast you want to spin on the way to the track. maybe a set of "highway tires" some TALL skinny truck tires would work. get like a 225/80 or so. will jack the rear up real high but give you a better gear ratio for highway driving (just swap on slicks at the track)
lol Im not driving this thing to the track... not yet at least Im not trusting it... this turbo is capable of tearing my motor a new butthole. I got the regulator today p-dawg. Thanks a bunch! you had me worried you would actually try to outdue my 30 plastic bags, wrapping paper, lined paper, bubble wrap, more bags and all the duct tape and such. I tihnk what you did was better as now Im kind of bothered you didnt do anything back... llol
As for the rear end idea I dont think I would wanna go through all that. Ill probably tow it to the track when I wanna go in fear of blowing it up or breakign something. at least for now. We'll see, Im ordering all the new an fitting and carb jets now.
As for the rear end idea I dont think I would wanna go through all that. Ill probably tow it to the track when I wanna go in fear of blowing it up or breakign something. at least for now. We'll see, Im ordering all the new an fitting and carb jets now.
sweet!
my fun St Patricks day work. got the car back up and running (first time started in 6-8 months I think?) switched to a -4 oil supply line (autometer gauge kit....$30 or so with fittings)
my fun St Patricks day work. got the car back up and running (first time started in 6-8 months I think?) switched to a -4 oil supply line (autometer gauge kit....$30 or so with fittings)
A
Anonymous
Guest
Tommy, make a steel shim that partially blocks the hole closest to the downpipe:
http://www.turbomustangs.com/smf/index. ... ic=45148.0
I wouldn't block off the entire hole....make a shim like you see in the first photos, but drill a 1/2" hole on the blocked side. That should make it spool a bunch faster. Keep making the hole a little larger if the boost is too soon.
The reason I recommend blocking the side closest to the downpipe, is because of the split turbine housing, the airflow from the tips of the blades to the center favors the "bottom" of each blade (keep boundary layer from separating sooner)
NOW......The BEST thing to do is build a header where cyls 1-2-3 feed one side of the split turbine housing, and cyls 4-5-6 feed the other side. Fast spool AND good flow. Now get welding!
http://www.turbomustangs.com/smf/index. ... ic=45148.0
I wouldn't block off the entire hole....make a shim like you see in the first photos, but drill a 1/2" hole on the blocked side. That should make it spool a bunch faster. Keep making the hole a little larger if the boost is too soon.
The reason I recommend blocking the side closest to the downpipe, is because of the split turbine housing, the airflow from the tips of the blades to the center favors the "bottom" of each blade (keep boundary layer from separating sooner)
NOW......The BEST thing to do is build a header where cyls 1-2-3 feed one side of the split turbine housing, and cyls 4-5-6 feed the other side. Fast spool AND good flow. Now get welding!
Linc's 200":1yi04xia said:Tommy, make a steel shim that partially blocks the hole closest to the downpipe:
http://www.turbomustangs.com/smf/index. ... ic=45148.0
I wouldn't block off the entire hole....make a shim like you see in the first photos, but drill a 1/2" hole on the blocked side. That should make it spool a bunch faster. Keep making the hole a little larger if the boost is too soon.
The reason I recommend blocking the side closest to the downpipe, is because of the split turbine housing, the airflow from the tips of the blades to the center favors the "bottom" of each blade (keep boundary layer from separating sooner)
NOW......The BEST thing to do is build a header where cyls 1-2-3 feed one side of the split turbine housing, and cyls 4-5-6 feed the other side. Fast spool AND good flow. Now get welding!
Thanks for that info linc, That site has soooo much good info if you can find it. I might get one made tonight. Spring break next week. no partying for me, just working. I got everything ordered for the FPR and a fuel pressure gauge. gonna probably order some other gauges today so I can get accurate boost readings. linc how were you launching your car? werent you neutral bombing it?
A
Anonymous
Guest
hasa68mustang":3t1hvg8v said:
Just the night the video was made, that was the old stock trans. The new trans/converter combo would build boost on the line if I could keep the back tires from spinning. A higher-stall-speed converter is a VERY nice thing to have!
Mustang Boy
Well-known member
hey tommy i would say a 3.73 gear would be good for a mixture of cruising and drag racing along with the converter would definently make you faster
and that header idea sounds like it would work really well ill have to keep that in mind when i decide to turbo my car
and that header idea sounds like it would work really well ill have to keep that in mind when i decide to turbo my car
Linc's 200":pu4jbk4l said:
what stall converter were you running? Ive found 2 for sale on here both are 2500s I was thinking between 2500-3000 would be what I was looking for although as shown by does10s the higher converters are beneficial.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Run some nitrous in a port made in the compressor housing pointed at the fins of the compressor wheel. A half second shot of high pressure nitrous will get that turbo up to speed in no time and give your engine a little candy to make it happy!
A
Anonymous
Guest
With the new converter, I could pull the e-brake and slowly work into the throttle until the vac gauge read "0", and the stall was 2800. If I floored it, it would go up to about 3200.
It is a TCI street fighter or something like that.
It is a TCI street fighter or something like that.
I should add that not all converters are created equal.
Cheapo's like TCI and the like will give you a lot of stall, but they will kill you on the top end slippig your horsepower away.
There is a compay out there that I recommened, but the damn name is slipping my mind right now. We used them in camaros all the time back when I was into that - they had much better results than the cheapo converters.
Vigilante I think it was - but be prepared, a converter from then runs like 800 $
http://www.converter.com/index.htm
Cheapo's like TCI and the like will give you a lot of stall, but they will kill you on the top end slippig your horsepower away.
There is a compay out there that I recommened, but the damn name is slipping my mind right now. We used them in camaros all the time back when I was into that - they had much better results than the cheapo converters.
Vigilante I think it was - but be prepared, a converter from then runs like 800 $
http://www.converter.com/index.htm
Well, I Thought I would add my part to all the turbo setup updates. I got my fuel pressure regulator hooked up and all the new -an fuel fittings I ordered and hooked up a fuel pressure gauge. I got the fuel presure right where it needs to be finally! and got an accurate temporary boost gauge hooked up, and got it idling really good, checked and double checked everything for leaks and was able to take the car in a loop in the parking lot next to our garage.
I was able to spin the tires a very little bit while brake torquing and was also able to build around a pound of boost! I think I made 3 psi by the end of the parkign lot which was alot better than last time, I think I found a culprit that added to the slow boost, and fixed it. With the lower fuel pressure the engine revs much better without the hesitation it had before.
I still havent hooked up the wideband due to not having enough exhaust imo for safe use. its only about one and a half feet long and I want the o2 sensor to last. I think Ill finish welding the exhaust tomorrow. ah crap nevermind... got plans... maybe ill goto bed early after work today, and wake up early. hopefully Ill have updates later.
I was able to spin the tires a very little bit while brake torquing and was also able to build around a pound of boost! I think I made 3 psi by the end of the parkign lot which was alot better than last time, I think I found a culprit that added to the slow boost, and fixed it. With the lower fuel pressure the engine revs much better without the hesitation it had before.
I still havent hooked up the wideband due to not having enough exhaust imo for safe use. its only about one and a half feet long and I want the o2 sensor to last. I think Ill finish welding the exhaust tomorrow. ah crap nevermind... got plans... maybe ill goto bed early after work today, and wake up early. hopefully Ill have updates later.
being thisis more of a strip setup now you might need that 2-step to help get you off the line (when on the lower stagging limiter it will dump fuel in the exhaust and help spool on the line)
get your exhaust hooked up and take it on a little drive out on some pavement to see how well it does onthe 2step
get your exhaust hooked up and take it on a little drive out on some pavement to see how well it does onthe 2step
turbo_fairlane_200":1ys3mr9w said:
I still need to adjust it, I have the 1-3k rpm adjustable pill so I will see if it helps at the low rpms on the line. I took it for a drive with a friend and finally reved it out some, I made it to the rev limiter AND IT WAS STILL PULLING!!!! unlike befroe it wouldnt like it after 5k sooo it is an improvemnt howwever I can only get 7 psi out of first gear. I checked to make sure it was infact raising the fuel pressure with the regulator installed and it works perfect.
Unfortunately my run was shortlived with a run down the street and back on the way back is when I made the 7 psi and blew off a coupler, guess I gotta get em tighter. my friend said it was alot of fun and didnt expectr it to be the way it is... once it starts building boost it becomes a completely different vehicle
Similar threads
All Small Six
I have a few questions about the 250ci
