the new turbo setup is complete! well sortof...

boost is addicting huh?

how are the ends of your pipes finished? you need a lip or bead to help hold them on there. a cheap solution is a length of wire rolled and trimmed to slide over the pipe end and then braze or solder it in place (much easier to do than welding) if you have a bead roller you can roll a rib on it. even a row of weld beads or spots that sit proud will work (mig welder with wire turned up and voltage down a little)you want it as near the edge as you can get so when you clamp you clamp behind it.
 
turbo_fairlane_200":2v9ax127 said:
boost is addicting huh?

how are the ends of your pipes finished? you need a lip or bead to help hold them on there. a cheap solution is a length of wire rolled and trimmed to slide over the pipe end and then braze or solder it in place (much easier to do than welding) if you have a bead roller you can roll a rib on it. even a row of weld beads or spots that sit proud will work (mig welder with wire turned up and voltage down a little)you want it as near the edge as you can get so when you clamp you clamp behind it.

the only thing is the tubing is aluminum so it would have to be tig, however I dont have a tig welder. Boost is definately addicting. The only thing now is I Cant drive the car around because for me to try to get it tuned I have to drive it somewhere with a safe straightaway. I can no longer take it down the street and make it quick... it takes a good part fo the street for 1st gear.

and one more thing, anyone know what converter my car would have? as in what size and how many spline. I posted something in the drivetrain section and got nothing.
 
You can add some very small sheet metal screws (round headed) to act as a "bead" so the tubing doesn't slide off as easily. Get short ones (1/4").

To find your stall speed, go ahead and brake torque it again until the boost/vac reads "0".
Look at the tach, that is your stall speed.

My 2800 RPM converter doesn't feel any looser than stock at all when just grandma driving, but really lets the engine loosen up a bit when you get on it. It is a worthwhile investment.

I think you have 24 splines.

http://www.fordmuscle.com/forums/c4-tra ... _9911.html
 
Bort62":1yeufmkk said:
You can mig and stick weld AL.
hmmm is theresome kind of catch or tip on doing this? I have never heard of somone mig welding aluminum.

and for linc200's replies

1. You can add some very small sheet metal screws (round headed) to act as a "bead" so the tubing doesn't slide off as easily. Get short ones (1/4").

how far apart should I put them? and how many?

2. To find your stall speed, go ahead and brake torque it again until the boost/vac reads "0".
Look at the tach, that is your stall speed.

I knew that I Was just wondering the spline count and the width I guess is what you would call it.

3. My 2800 RPM converter doesn't feel any looser than stock at all when just grandma driving, but really lets the engine loosen up a bit when you get on it. It is a worthwhile investment.

That kind of makes me feel better about it. But I dont like grandma driving :wink:

4. I think you have 24 splines.
http://www.fordmuscle.com/forums/c4-tra ... _9911.html

anyone know if its the 11 7/16" one or the 10 1/2" one?
 
just load up some AL wire in the mig and go at it. mig is just not fun for thin AL stuff but you should be able to drop down some "spots" or maybe some short beads pretty easily. I think they say to use a high argon mix like you would for TIG welding.
 
TIG welding AL works much better with Helium :)

Expensive tho -

As far as MIG, you need a pull style feel gun to use AL wire because the feed wire will bind up in a typical system.

They make Arc welding AL stick, and it actually works reasonable well. Just make sure you use AC.
 
I have used both a pull style and a push style to MIG AL. the pull does work better but you can push it on a small machine ok if you keep the gun lead straight as possible.

pop rivets work good too in a pinch.
 
Back
Top