They say i have to replace the block!

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Hi All, I had bitten the bullet and taken my car to a mechanic who is a "mustang specialist" because the bolt on my water pump had broken when I was replacing it. The bolt had no stub sticking out of the block, and I had attempted several times to drill it out. I used 1/8" cobalt bits, and other specialty bits to no avail. That's when I took it to the mechanic.

The bolt is the one located at about 2 o'clock when looking at the water pump from the grill of the car, and because it was this bolt the mechanic said it was the most difficult because it was located so closet to cylinder #1. They too couldn't drill it out and called their welder to come out who said he too couldn't do anything because of the location after he inspected it. The mechanic then called me and recommended that I replace the block. I'm a bit strapped for cash and need my car back in action, so my question is does the mechanic seem to be right on his diagnosis, or should I take my stang somewhere else for a second opinion? Has anyone else had a similar problem with this bolt's location?

Thanks,
Jim
 
No, this is a general mechanic, who "specializes in mustangs". Would taking it to a machine shop be the way to go?
 
how strapped for cash?

just tearing the motor down and putting in new gaskets will run you close to $70 right there. then you will have the machine shop charges to deal with once they do their work. I am pretty sure you are looking at pulling the motor and a complete teardown for a machine shop to work on it.
 
I'm not sure why you can't drill it out.

Drill it out and helicoil it.

Sounds the mech is an idiot, but that's not a surprise.
 
a machine shop should be able to get it out fairly easy. That's where I'd take and have it done correctly.

If you'd like to have it done incorrectly… If you are really strapped for cash and want to prolong the repair you could JB Weld the new pump back on in that location. crazy, but I know it would work and only cost about $3.
 
Take it to a machine shop that you know and trust. If the bolt is broke off even with the block they can take a flat washer of the proper size for the bolt and weld it to the broken bolt. The electric welder will not weld the washer to the block. If you haven't already heated the bolt they need to drill a small hole through the center of the bolt for relief then weld the washer to the bolt. As the bolt cools back down to room temp. spray WD-40 or any penetrating fluid on the washer and bolt. When the bolt is cooled down to room temp. grab the washer with vice grips and work it back ond forth until it turns out easily. Be sure and let the bolt cool to room temp. slowly. Do not put water on it to help it cool. Patience, patience, patience.

The mechanic is a moron. He is a parts replacer and nothing else.
 
Just helped a friend with the same problem same bolt. Except he broke an easy out in his. By the time he got the easy out out we had to bump the bolt size up to 3/8. He installed the water pump with the two good bolts and drilled the bad hole out to 5/16. Tap the enlarged hole with a 3/8 bottoming tap. Then drill the hole in the pump 3/8.
 
Yea cant you just drill it out to a size bigger than what it was and then tap it to a larger bolt size? then drill the hole on the water pump or something so the larger bolt will fit right in?
 
Thanks all! I've put in a lot of time and drill bits, many of which have broken, into this bolt. For whatever reason regardless of the bit: cobalt or the Craftsman Drill-Out Power Extractor bits a friend of mine let me borrow, the best result I got was a small dimple on the bolt face, and am not sure why that is. Possibly my drill is not powerful enough? It's rated 2500 rpm. I'd much rather do it myself than take it to someone else, especially after what you guys are telling me compared to what the mechanic said.

I've only had to extract a bolt one other time, and i did not have the problems of drilling a hole down the center of the bolt as i am with this one. The toughest part was getting the bolt to turn. So my experience with this is very limited, and working on cars has been a hobby which I've learned mostly from forums and shop manuals. I'd honestly never heard of helicoils before Bort62's post, so if that gives an indication of my level.
Would posting a picture help more? I'd be able to put one up tomorrow after I get my car back.

I could probably muster together $200, maybe a bit more. How much to machine shops charge for this kind of work?
Thanks Again!
 
Where are you located ?

If you are anywhere close to one of us, i'm sure we could get it out for ya for a 12 pack.
 
I have had good luck with a MIG inthe past. put a brass washer over the broken sectino to act as a weld barrier. then build up a weld "bead" coming out form the block. once long enough you can get vicegrips on it good you should be able to start working it free. I would run a small bead along the side of my nub for better leverage when turning. removed a couple allen head set screw style water galley plug this way.
 
Bort62: I live in the San Fernando Valley, close to Van Nuys, CA.

LaGrasta: is that in addition to the teardown and engine pull that turbo_fairlane_200 was talking about?

turbo_fairlane_200: I could probably find someone who could do that for me, but my first thought is that the the bolt is recessed a little into the block, so it's not flush, would that make it more difficult?
 
For what it's worth, there isn't a broken bolt in any engine block that
cannot be removed and the threads repaired if required. I manage
a heavy truck shop (Mack) and we do this almost daily. I'm sure
there is a shop in your area that can do this repair without
replacing the block. That's my 2 cents worth. Paul.
 
Bort, that is a great offer! I'm going to see if I can do this locally first, as that would be a pretty HOT and long trek to Mojave.
 
I've done the blow torch trick & it works, though I've only done it on an open (through) hole, not a blind one. Whats worked for me best (even in the car) is a set of left-handed drill bits. You'll have to shop around & some places will raise their eyes when you ask for them, but you can find them. They usually come in sets of about 5. Start with the smallest size, work the bit into the bolt SLOWLY. Once you've gotten as far as you need (or as far you're comfortable), got to the next larger bit. Keep working your way up till the bolt catches & usually will spin out. Take your time & this will save you time & money. I never use eazy-outs on steel bolts, especially in an engine block, all they seem to do is break.
Edwin
 
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