uh ohh... i hope i didn't screw anything up, PLEASE HELP...

[Anonymous]

so i changed the oil today in the stang and then i started it. so i went to the carb and bumped the throttle and i heard a scretching noise, and then i started to sound like a diesel...then i went and looked at the pressure guage on the dash and there was NO pressure.. so i shut it off.

what did i do??? it was just a normal oil change, the only thing different is instead of a fram oil filter i used a motorcraft and i used 20w50 oil instead of 10w30

please help

 

[Anonymous]

i just pulled the oil filter and there was nothing in it, like the oil pump isn't working...
i really don't want to pull the engine and rebuild it again, it's only been a year and not even 10,000 miles since the last time i did.

 

[mustang6]

This is where we have to ask the simple questions that sound insulting- don't take it personally...

Was the oil pan drain plug back in when you added the oil? I've seen this accidentally done on a lawn where the new oil all went right out the drain hole into the grass.

If the plug was in, did the new oil even make it to the pan? What does the dipstick show? Possible there is a major obstruction up top.

Worst case (and matches most with your sounds effects description) the new thick oil may have been a little too much for a worn to the extreme oil pump drive shaft- you may have to pull the pan and/or the distributor to be sure.

 

[Anonymous]

yeah, i put the plug back in, the dipstick reads full

i just got done pulling the dizzy and vavle cover, i'm going to put the drill on the oil pump shaft, what should i be looking for up top? oil coming out of the rocker arm?

i can't get the oil pump shaft out though, any pointers?

maybe it's time to start building my performance engine with my spare.

 

[XFlow_Fairlane]

leave teh shaft in there. just use a 1/4" drive socket set and an extension to drive it. if you filter is dry you can pull that the motor and crank on the oil pump drive and look for oil coming out the filter mount. I just used a speed wrench on my (like an old hand drill for sockets) didn't take much speed to get oil out.

 

[Anonymous]

ok, so i just got done with the electric drill and it took a few minutes but eventually oil started to come out of the dizzy whole and it started to drip from the rocker arm.

how much is supposed to come from the rocker???

i don't want to put it all back together yet just incase i scratched the cylinder wall, what else should i be looking for?

i guess the only way to check the cylinder walls is to pull the head, right?

 

[wsa111]

nathan, I always fill the oil filter with oil when doing an oil change.

Since you just had the distributor out, is the oil pump shaft still in the block?

I have an old distributor shaft with the gear teeth removed, I use the shaft hooked to a drill & prime a new engine with oil.

I would try to prime the engine with the drill method first.

Let us know what happens. William

 

[WhitePony]

I had a similar problem a few years ago with a 92 F150 300ci. I flushed the oil system with on of those 5-minute flushes, and about 50 miles after the oil change, my oil presure went to zero. I killed the engine, and when I restarted it it was back up. After I got home I pulled the pan and found chunks of gasket material in the bottom of the pan. When I flushed the engine it losened these chunks from wherever they were stuck, and I had sucked one of these chunks up into the inlet of the pump.

 

[Anonymous]

Since you just had the distributor out, is the oil pump shaft still in the block?

I have an old distributor shaft with the gear teeth removed, I use the shaft hooked to a drill & prime a new engine with oil.

I would try to prime the engine with the drill method first.

Let us know what happens. William

priming is when you build up the oil pressure with a drill, right?
i just did that and after a few minutes oil started to swirl around in the whole where the dizzy goes and then it started to drip from the rocker arms
how much oil is supposed to come from the rocker arm? once it started to drip it seemed like a constent flow, but it wasn't anything impressive like oil shooting out all over the place
oh and yes the oil pump shaft is still in the block, i couldn't get it out

I had a similar problem a few years ago with a 92 F150 300ci. I flushed the oil system with on of those 5-minute flushes, and about 50 miles after the oil change, my oil presure went to zero. I killed the engine, and when I restarted it it was back up. After I got home I pulled the pan and found chunks of gasket material in the bottom of the pan. When I flushed the engine it losened these chunks from wherever they were stuck, and I had sucked one of these chunks up into the inlet of the pump.

but i didn't flush it, it was just a normal oil change

what should i do next??? what kind of damage could i have done after running it for about 30 seconds with no pressure? the sctretching noise was definetly metal on metal

 

[wsa111]

Nathan, put the distributor back in & fire the engine up. If you have an oil pressure guage, did you loose any pressure.

How does the engine sound after running? If no noise drive it. William

 

[Anonymous]

ok, i put everything back together and everything is ok

i scared my self for a little while

i started it up and there is no smoke from the exhaust, so if i scratched anything it doesn't look like it was too bad

i actually have a little more oil pressure than before, so i guess i need to finish buttoning everything up, set the timing, and go for a cruise

 

[PutPut6]

To second what wsa111 said, I always fill my oil filter with oil before installing it. I've always been taught to do that so the oil gets circulating quicker. It never really takes more than a second or two when I change my oil for the pressure to get up to normal.

 

[XFlow_Fairlane]

I never filled filters. all my other cars had been 2.3l's and they have the filter on the side. if you fill it all of it will drain on your head as you try to thread it on.

 

[wsa111]

Nathan, i'm so glad no damage was done that you know of.

Great news.

62fairlane170, when I said you need to fill the oil filter, you have to use a little common sense. Just fill the filter enough so at the angle of installation you don't have oil running down the side of the block.

Remember most of the wear on an engine is on cold startups till oil circulation reaches all lubricating areas & after an oil change on a dry filter.

If you hear a rod knock when starting after an oil change, the lower end clearances are on the wide side, not a big deal because the engine may have a lot of rod bearing clearance but not enough to the point where the oil film does not take up the gap.

Do what you want its your engine. William

 

[I66coupe]

Well, I guess I'm the anal guy here. I always fill the filter. If some dribbles down the side of the engine (it always does) I just wipe it up. I also pull the sparkplugs, ground the coil wire and spin the engine with the starter till I see pressure building on the gauge.

Everyone that sees me go through this routine says I'm a nut.

Am I?

 

[Anonymous]

Well, I guess I'm the anal guy here. I always fill the filter. If some dribbles down the side of the engine (it always does) I just wipe it up. I also pull the sparkplugs, ground the coil wire and spin the engine with the starter till I see pressure building on the gauge.

Everyone that sees me go through this routine says I'm a nut.

Am I?

That's a good idea. I may do that next oil change. Probably won't go so far as to pull the plugs, but will ground out the coil and turn it over as you do.
I also always fill the oil filter before putting it on the engine.
Cheers,
Steve-O

 

[grocery getter]

to play it safe, i'd replace the oil filter. it might have a bad pressure relief valve in it