vacuum lines on an 1100 help needed

[Anonymous]

can anyone tell me where the vacuum lines on an 1100 hook up?

I have a dual vacuum distributor...and a 3-pronged vacuum tree on the water pump area

I want to know which hose goes to the carb advance, and which to the nipple on the manifold just below the carb...and how they hook to the distributor, primary and secondary vacuums?

this confused me. I do not want to be advancing at high speed when I should be retarding

does anyone know what I am talking about and can you help?

i remember once simon drew a little chart....but I cant find it


chaz

 

[Anonymous]

I'm pretty sure the nipple on the intake manifold goes to your transmission vacuum from the modulator. I also have a dual advance on my six, but I'm just going to replace it with a single advance because of the same problem. I couldn't find much info on vacuums for the six with dual advance. If you find something out let me knows as well

 

[simon]

howdy Chaz,
I can hear you.

Can´t find the old diagram? well, just take the new one!
The old one was '69 250 imco anyways.

here ya go...

Be aware, all that particular ignition set-up will give you is favourable exhaust gas figures at the price of sluggish performance and fuel consumption. Whats the point of passing smog when lateron, in real world traffic, your engine will be puking out tons of unburnt hydrocarbons just because real world traffic is so much different from the smog test situation in the shop.
I urged you before, restrain from the dark side, those evil sinister forces of pseudo-environmentalism and hardcore political correctness. Thats all smog voodoo!

If you don´t mind fiddling a bit with your timing, and if you have have access to a vacuum gauge and a good ear to detect pinging when it occurs, leave the retard nipple unplugged for good, and hook up the advance side to permanent manifold vacuum, for the benefits of idle advance: such as lower combustion temperatures and better flame propagation.
here´s what I´d do - Set conservative timing without any vacuum connected (plug line on carb), connect manifold vacuum and check for full vac advance at idle. Then, check for ping; put her in highest gear and stomp it. No ping, advance further until she just starts to, then back off a hair. If she pings, retard distributor until she won´t ping anymore.
check with timing light, provided your damper marks are correct you should find your timing at appr. 15-17° without vacuum, thats about 30° with vacuum connected.
A set of lighter springs on your mechanical advance might help things in case she won´t have any pep on part-throttle-to-WOT acceleration. 3000 rpm is a rough estimation for full mechanical advance.

have fun

 

[Anonymous]

fun...yeah, thats what it is when ya chug black smoke in the morning

LOL

THANK YOU Simon

this is my lunch time project inn my company parking lot
chaz

what is "to air cleaner or filler" I dont know whata filler is....can you explain that?

BTW...great drawing

also...I dont have an air by pass valve...can I get one at an auto parts store?

 

[simon]

"filler" in my terrible handwriting means filter, i.e. a source of clean, filtered air.

It is a sponge-type filter pushed on the lower nipple of the vacuum switch (vacuum tree) You could pirate one from 70´s era engines at your local junkyard.

It has been quite a while since I have been to the states, and I have never asked for a vacuum switch air filter at autozoo or pepboys, so you might try your luck there first.

In case you cannot find any, and when your air cleaner has an unoccupied provision for PCV, I´d suggest to use that as a source.

Another alternative- try to get one of those small foam filters as found on two-stroke RC cars, or make one yourself from foam padding that can be used as filtering media.

 

[Anonymous]

i remember when I got the car, it had an air bypass valve

where did that get to...hmmm