valve spring retainers...

I'm just about getting ready to rebuild my ported head (yeah, I know, I've been saying that for a year!) and I want to make as many small improvements as i can. Since I'm keeping the stock cam (I'll use stock style ratio rockers) I'll be using stock valves. Still, It seems like a good idea to use lighter retainers (every little bit helps).
What retainers can I use?
 
Falcon fanatic, get rid of the stock cam & get a camshaft,springs & retainers from mike www.fordsixparts.com
Mike carries quality parts, also get a timing chain & gear set from him. The roller chain is the only way to fly,stock link timing chains are junk.
good luck on your prodject. william
 
Howdy Falcon Fanatic:

The two choices on lighter, swap-in one piece retainers are OEM retainers from earliy 221 and 260 V8s, @ 24 grm. Part # was C3 428514-B. They are very scarce due to the smaller diameter 5/16" valve stem, necessary to be compatible with our six cylinder valve locks.

The other choice is one piece retainers from a 4.0 V6. They weigh in at 23 grams and should be available from your local Ford Parts window. The part # is E6TZ 64536-A. The are quite pricy.

In addition to the lighter, one piece retainers, be sure to add a back cut to the port side of the intake valves. This lightens the valves and gives the effect of quicker opening and latter closing, and more lift.

Be sure to add a three angle performance valve seat. Milling the head not only raises compression, but it drops the valve slightly deeper into the cylinder for slightly less shrouding. Also shimming the stock springs up .030" is cheap and good for a little more valve control.

This is also the time to get, fit and install an exhaust port divider.

I would encourage you to heed Wsa111's advice, and consider a cam upgrade. As long as you're going to the trouble and expense of a head rebuild, spending a little (well, more than a little) on a better cam and a new double roller timing chain and gear set is worth it. Mike has the right stuff and very competetive prices.

Adios, David
 
Thanks for the details.

I've toyed with the cam idea, but it does complicate matters somewhat. I can pretty much slap this ported/polished - three angle valve job - modified log - ratio rocker head on my car in an afternoon and pick up a goodly amount of power. An upgraded timing chain can go in at some later date for $95 - not critical right now.

ONTOH, slipping in a new cam involves pulling the radiator and the front cover, pulling the distributor, seeing IF I can get teh lifeters out (what if I can't! :shock: ), sliding the cam out and then a new one back in without dinging it, and then hoping that the bearings are a good match (I have a mystery engine). All together, that's a lot more work and about $300. Yes, I should do it, but I've already spent way more money on this car than it's worth and I'm pretty pleased wit it as it is. I'm sure the 20% power gain this head will give me will make me quite happy. Thanks for the sentiment, though :wink:
 
Be sure to do the back cut on the intake valve. I looks like this when you are done.

back-cut-valve.jpg


Very simply, the engine thinks you have just a little bigger cam because the intake charge can start flowing .030 or .040 sooner. It works like having that much more lift too.

The real power gain will come from upping the compression by milling the head.

good luck
 
If you don't want the trouble of a Cam (yes, PITA when the engine is in the car) consider a 1.6 ratio roller tipped rockers from Mike. They will in effect increase the duration of your stock cam by 4* or so while increasing you valve lift (which will really wake your engine up).

Pros: Will not take you any longer to swap out then the work you have to do already for the head swap.

Downside...Costs much more then a Cam.

Slade
 
Slade, I'm going with the stock style 1.6 ratio rockers. Only $160 from rocker arm specialties. Rollers would be nice, but not at twice the price.

Remeber, this is a cruiser with bench seat. Next car, next engine...
 
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