Visible Moisture Between Head and Block?

[78 granada]

Have any of you experienced a small amount of moisture visible between the head and block where they come together on the driver's side of the block? I noticed this the first time I assembled my motor. Not a lot and not running down the block - just visible. I had to pull the head because I managed to pull one of the lifters out and flopped it on its side! So I figured good enough I would just replace the Felpro gasket with another new one anyway. So I reassembled everything with a new gasket. Torque is right on. Head and block are flat. Had the head milled but used washers to compensate so the bolts wouldn't bottom out. But still, I see just a bit of residual moisture when I run it. Plugs look good - not like any amount of coolant is getting into the combustion chamber. Really scratching my head!! Is it possible this is nothing more than condensation? Been offline for a while but good to get back on with you guys.....

Bill

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy back Bill:

IIWIYS, I wipe the fluid off and watch it for a couple of days. Take a close look at the other side also. It's a little more difficult under the exhaust manifold but worth doing. Watch for color of fluid, amount of fluid, smell and/our odor of fluid. If appearance of fluid stops with repeated heat cycles, good. If not start by loosening and retorqueing the head. That's where I'd start and go from there.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Adios, David

 

[wsa111]

Normal seepage from the drivers side of the engine. It can be fixed with block machine work & o'rings.
I have has better luck with a Victor-Rentz headgasket sold at advance auto parts. Plus the Victor gasket is .004" thinner.

 

[ags290]

Back years ago, we used to have porous block problems with Cadillacs. It was a similar situation to what you are describing. I would recommend a retouque on the head bolts and adding some GM coolant sealing tabs if the leak persists. I have used them more times than I can remember with very good results.

Just my 2 cents

Kevin

 

[wsa111]

Back years ago, we used to have porous block problems with Cadillacs. It was a similar situation to what you are describing. I would recommend a retouque on the head bolts and adding some GM coolant sealing tabs if the leak persists. I have used them more times than I can remember with very good results.

Just my 2 cents

Kevin

Kevin, the gold coolant sealing tablets are almost a must after a rebuild. They can be purchased at any GM dealership.
Part #3634621. They come in a six pack. Just add 2 to the coolant tank before starting engine. They will not clog the system up.

 

[Soldmy66]

Rather than use shims, might it be worth investing in ARP studs?

 

[bubba22349]

Did you happen to use a bottoming tap to chase / clean the threads during your rebuilding process?

 

[78 granada]

I did actually chase the threads and finger threaded the bolts snug to the head without washers to be sure I wasn't bottoming out. I also retorqued the head. The ARP studs would be a good idea thought - I totally ignored my cheap conscience both time I reassembled the top end! Sure appreciate all of your advice, sounds like it's not too uncommon. I will get the coolant sealer and give that a shot. I have to say that the advice I have gotten from this blog has been put to great use and really paid off. This little motor runs beautiful and the sound of it turns heads every time!

Talk to you soon!

Bill

 

[rwbrooks50]

Same thing is happening to my 73 Comet, 250 I6. I had the radiator roded. Still get hot after a few miles. The engine is original with only 14K miles. It was in a garage for 40 years. The cooling system was flushed and cleaned before I got the car. I put 6K miles over 4 years with no overheating. The pressure pump is hold at 14 lbs. The fluid at the head and block is rusty.

I am thinking of replacing the head gasket just to be cautious. And check the water pump.

Any advice welcome.

Rick