Warm Up Question (auto choke)

[Anonymous]

How long should it take for my new six (200 ci) to warm up to normal operating temp. considering that i live in los angeles (50 degree mornings).?? What's typical for you?

I ask because I installed a new autolite 1100 w/auto choke from pony carbs...and when i start my car it takes more than 10 minutes of fast idle for it to actually warm up and move off choke...John at Pony Carbs has the black auto choke cap shifted over to the left of center - and my old carb that did run okay (better than this at least) was too manipulated, neglected, altered to use as a good benchmark.

Even after about 10 minutes of idling, when I go to step on the gas she acts as though she's way over choked (and my butterfly plate is still relatively closed) and she wants to sputter - perhaps i have other problems but this is the best my dad and i can make of it....i'll look towards the thermostat next i suppose!

thanks guys!

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Marvista66:

Initial warm-up should take no more than 7 - 10 miles of driving. Warm-up occurs more efficiently and quickly when driving, as opposed to idling. If your thermostat is stuck open it will take longer for the engine to reach operating temperature.

The choke is adjustible by loosening the three set screws on the ring around the outswide of the black plastic choke housing cover and rotating the housing clockwise to reduce the choking effect. There should be a single mark on the black plastic cover and a range of marks on the choke housing, adjacent. Note the orientation as a starting point reference.

There is also a fast idle adjusting screw under the choke housing that can be altered to suit different cold start situation. It should only be in operation when the choke is in use.

Here in the hard winters of Idaho, I used a different choke and fast idle setting for summer than for winter. Given your mild climate, I'd guess that you could use a leaner setting year 'round.

You only get one chance as checking the effect of choke on initial start up, depending on the ambient temperature. Then you'll have to wait till it completely cool off before assessing any more changes on start up.

A short cut, you might want to try, is to get the engine warmed up, remove the air cleaner and look at the choke plate. It should be straignt up and down/ wide open. IF it is not, loosen the three set screws on the retaining ring holding the black plastic cover and rotate the cover clockwise until the plate is vertical. Retighten the set screws and replace the air cleaner. Drive to assess. Reassess choke function the next morning. Chances are it will be alot better.

Be sure to post a response to let us know how it worked out.

Adios, David

 

[ludwig]

In LA, maybe 10 minutes at most. The choke will not pull off by itself; it drops onto the normal operating notch when the accelerator is moved.You can blip the accelerator and it will pop off of choke.
I suggest you loosen the ring around the black plastic choke pulloff and rotate it counter clockwise to reduce the spring pressure. It is possible that the pulloff spring in the black cap has come off the shaft inside. This happened to me. Take the cap off and re-engage the inside of the coiled spring in the slot at the end of the shaft. This is kind of fiddly when done on the car so be prepared to take a little time.

(Edit) I check to the power. Take David's advice first.

 

[Anonymous]

Okay, seems like the black cap was set all the way to the right (clockwise) and John at pony carbs says this is correct....but I disagree. So my father and I kept rotating the black cap counter clockwise and found this to work much better....however I find it odd because the butterfly plate doesn't actually open up as I turn the cap, but yet it seems to still make a difference in warm up driving....

Theoretically, when I twist the black cap, I should be moving the plate more horizontal/vertical, no?

Oh well, Looks like I've got my issues sorted out - now i Just need to fine tune the rest of the carb idle screws via vacuum gauge.

Thanks for all the advice (and let me know about my question above if you think you have an explanation!!).

 

[ludwig]

The choke plate is either open or closed. When you turn the black cap forward or back, you either increase or reduce the spring pressure on the choke. Turning it backwards (counter-clockwise) reduces the pressure enough for the spring to pull it off.
My Pony carb was shipped with the pointer on the cap in the middle and I ended up pulling it back a couple of degrees. I think yours may have been turned a whole turn to the right, not just a couple of degrees, and now you have it back where it belongs.

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy:

On an Autolite 1100 turning the cap clockwise leans the choke setting by increasing the tension of the coiled spring inside the black cap. When the engine and spring are cold the spring coils relax causing the choke to close when you step on the gas pedal to set the choke. As the engine and choke warm up, the heat is transfered to the coiled spring by the hot air tube from the exhaust manifold, causing the coil to tighten and pulling the choke open.

The choke levers and links also enacts the fast idle circuit. Fast idle can be adjusted independent of the choke butterfly opening rate.

Some morning on cold start up, open the hood, remove the air cleaner and watch the choke butterfly open. Blip the throttle ocassionally to allow the fast idle cam to reduce idle speed. You will see the choke butterfly open very slowly. When you blip the throttle the vacuum pull off function will snap it open for a moment.

There is no such thing (due respect to Pony Carb, But)as a standard setting for all chokes in every part of the world. Once the engine is warmed up make sure the choke butterfly is in the vertical position.

Adios, David

 

[rickwrench]

Do you have the power to the choke hooked up to the coil? For some reason, I find a lot of older cars set up this way. It's wrong.
Hook the choke power supply up to a ignition switched 12v power source. The coil is not 12v and it takes alot longer to heat the take-up spring.
As an alternative, if you live in mild a mild climate, i.e., CA, the south, disconnect the choke completely. Adjust the butterfly wide open, and just learn to start without it. It's tricky at first, but will reward you with better mileage and less cylinder wall wash down when cold. Also you won't fall prey to the "short trip" flooding problem. This is where you drive to the grocery store, the car heats up, you go inside to get your wife's ice cream, the choke coil cools, you come back out, pump-pump-start, as is your habit, and "oh fudge" - the car is flooded.
None of the weber carbed cars I've owned had chokes. The GTV Alfas had hand throttle levers inside the car (and THAT was a handy item on cold days!).
Rick(wrench)

 

[Anonymous]

once again - thanks to all of you for the help...here's an update...

i've fine tuned the choke setting after numerous cold starts. Turns out the auto choke setting was pretty far off. I also adjusted my choke tube to collect more heat by running it along the manifold and then a soft 90 degree angle up to the choke housing....

Also, I ditched a "home made" spacer plate that was just butchered (i.e. sloppy welding etc) and opted to get a new one from NPD w/the heater tube on the valve cover side although I decided to by pass it for obvious performance reasons (per the FSPP handbook). This new plate not only looks clean, but it has assured me that there are no leaks of any kind (this was a mystery with the old homemade spacer).

She's running just beautifully with the new carb from Pony Carbs and I still haven't adjusted the idle/air fuel mixture screws or my timing....I hate to touch these because she seems to be performing so well as is!

That's it for now - thanks again!