Water pump changing advice

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Ok....advice....or just a talking thru for confidence

I am going to change the water pump next weekend. I wont pay $250+ to have someone else do it

I need a water pump, gasket and....IS THERE ANY SEALER I NEED?
Is there A BTTER PUMP THAN STOCK? ANY RECCOMENDATIONS? any thing else? Should I replace the hoses too? and are blue or red hoses hard to get? or should I just get a cover for the hoses....

I am going to spray the pump ford blue...that wont be a problem will it?

I will buy a catch pan for the liquid....how big do I need?

I have a tendancy to over think (and talk) things before I do them. Ask my wife

stock radiators are how many rows?

any advice would be appricated
chaz
 
You can use on the gasket, any of: waterproof grease, Blue Hylomar, Permatex #3. Permatex is the most forgiving.

Biggest problem is bolts/threads shearing or sticking. Can you get new bolts from anyone? Not all the bolts are the same length. Make sure to put the correct bolt in the hole.

I like the alloy pumps with stamped impellers, but many people don't. Most have a gasket in the box.

If your hose is not sheathed (not intended to sound lewd :lol: ) then it will be easier to see any leakage at times in the future.

Don't forget sealer on the bolt threads. This will stop the parts rusting together next time.
 
all things I did not know...

I will see about bolts. Does any parts place carry them or do I need to go to ARP?

I think I will splurge for the best water pump partsamerica.com has...
just a few bucks more

thanks Adam...anyone else have any experience? (not the your wasnt perfect Adam)
 
Howdy Chaz:

The stock 200 six cylinder radiator from '68 is a 2 row. If you have AC from the factory you may have a three row.

You can specify a water pump for AC. It has a little more flow. Don't get it unless you need it for controling summer heat. It does have a higher parasitic drag on power.

Check your hoses carefully and thoroughly. Especially the bottom hose. IF they show any sign of cracking or thinning/bulging replace them now. Also verify that the spring inside the lower hose is still intact and keeping the hose from collapsing.

This is also a good time to replace the thermostat. Cheap insurance.

As long as you're removing the radiator it is a good time to take it to a radiator shop for a back flushing and pressure check.

Adios, David
 
As for the bolts your best source would probably be a local hardware store that has a good selection. That's where I almost always find the ones I need, but just be sure you take the old ones along with you for comparison.

Auto parts places don't seem to usually carry many fasteners like that.

And usually just a thin skin of permatex sealer on both sides of the gasket will do the job.

Good luck! You can do eeet!
 
Replacing a water pump is pretty much a straight forward type of job.

Drain radiator.
Remove the fan belt. "Good time to replace it"
Remove the four bolts holding the fan on.
Remove fan and pulley.
Remove bolts holding water pump to block.
Clean off old gasket.
Reassemble.
This is also a good time to replace upper and lower radiator hoses and thermostat.
 
It was covered once before which model came with the alloy pump. Does anyone recall a part number or model or how to find this alloy pump?
 
I am pretty sure it was a random thing. but I think it was on the later motors like fox bodies and granada's. there was no single app that would produce an alloy pump but the later motors had a chance of there being one in the box. I think the method used was guess and check. get a counter monkey to pull a paper cataloug and in there you should be able to find all the part numbers for a 200 water pump and I would check all those boxes at each store.
 
will a water pump from ANY 200 fit?

and to remove the fan and spacer....do I need a puller or its a blot?

(gaining confidence in doing this)
chaz
 
Fan & spacer are just four long-ish bolts.

NOTE WELL: The Japanese pumps often have METRIC fine threads for the fan mount. :x

Call if you get really stuck. :lol:
 
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