Weber 32/36 jets

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Good evening:

It has been a long time since I last posted on this forum. Job and kids have kept the mustang project on the back burner. Well I am off and running again. I just had the weber 32/36 installed (along with a complete MSD system and Painless wiring harness). The mechanic who was helping me says the jets in the weber are too big and that is what is causing the engine to bog down whenever all four barrells are open. Does this sound correct to you guys? I looked at the earlier post and it looks to me that the jets actually get bigger than factory when mods are made.

Bob
 
azconvertible":2v7gk4rk said:
Good evening:

It has been a long time since I last posted on this forum. Job and kids have kept the mustang project on the back burner. Well I am off and running again. I just had the weber 32/36 installed (along with a complete MSD system and Painless wiring harness). The mechanic who was helping me says the jets in the weber are too big and that is what is causing the engine to bog down whenever all four barrells are open. Does this sound correct to you guys? I looked at the earlier post and it looks to me that the jets actually get bigger than factory when mods are made.

Bob

First off, there are only two barrels on the 32/36. Secondly, yes, you typically install bigger jets the more you modify your engine (to a point).

From personal experience, wether by my own dabling or someone elses, the 32/36 runs very well with the larger jets. Smaller jets will produce too lean of a fuel mixture. The engine will run but not to it's optimal potential with the smaller sized jets.

Like I've posted before, the 32/36 was originally designed for a 4 cylinder engine (approx. 151 CID or less). In order to compensate for a larger displacement engine (approx. 170 CID or greater), larger jets will be required. This is basically true wether you use a Weber, Holley, Motorcraft or whatever else carburetor (again, to a point).

Do you know what size jets you have? There are six jets that need to be looked at in total. (2) Main, (2) Secondary Air, and (2) Idle.

There are two other facters but most of the time those needles or jets will stay stock.
 
I will have to pull the carb apart to get the jet sizes. They are the stock ones that came with the carb. It sounds to me like changing jet sizes will make minor improvements in the performance. The engine sputters and almost dies when you hit the accellerator. Does this sound like a problem with too small of jets? Thanks for the reply
 
Do you need to remove the carb to change all the jets? Also do the weber's that you buy from clifford come set up for a four cyl. or do they rejet them for the six or specific application? Trying to figure out what I've got without tearing things apart.
 
The engine sputters and almost dies when you hit the accellerator. Does this sound like a problem with too small of jets? Thanks for the reply



I would be inclined to think the opposite - sounds like the jets could be too small...

Opposite of the mechanic, that is..

Here is a source for jets someone sent me - http://www.holleypartsforsale.com/jets.php
 
azconvertible":21agw3ly said:
I will have to pull the carb apart to get the jet sizes. They are the stock ones that came with the carb. It sounds to me like changing jet sizes will make minor improvements in the performance. The engine sputters and almost dies when you hit the accellerator. Does this sound like a problem with too small of jets? Thanks for the reply

The only sure way to know if the ones you have are too small is to see what you currently have on the carburetor. What you are describing sounds like a very lean condition. I say this because if it was too rich, more than likely you wouldn't be able to get it to idle very well. You would be dumping fuel into the cylinder head fast than it can use it. You tail pipe would be spitting out black smoke.

Look at your idle jets. Make sure they are at least 65 and 60 respectively. If the secondary idle jet is too small, you will see bogging whenever the secondary venturi kicks in.

Remember, even with the smallest jets on these carburetors you can get the engine to idle pretty decently. Even though the A/F mixture might be running lean, it will still idle nicely. Usually you don't see any bogging until you apply load to the engine (i.e. mashing the accelerator pedal from a standing stop).

I had the very same problem with one of my Webers. The main jet was sized for a 4 cylinder engine (#145) but the secondary was sized for a 6 cylinder (#175). This is not uncommon especially if it's a rebuild.

I know it can be very frustrating to get these carburetors running well. Some just take more tuning then others. For whatever reason.

Last night I spoke with Tom Langdon about the 38/38. I had a few questions about using it with a stock 200. To make a long story short, he basically said to stick with the Carter 32/36 or the Holley/Weber 32/36. I thought it was interesting he would mention the Carter version. Typically it is more expensive but as he mentioned it flows less than the Holley/Weber and would be more suited for a stock 200. He's not saying that the H/W won't work but it maybe harder to tune with a stock engine such as the 200. He said it flows around 320 CFM where as the Carter version flows around 260-280. This is the ideal number needed for a stock 200. Just something to remember.

matt_hue, the ones you purchase from Clifford are engine specific and new. I've never bought one from Clifford but I imagine sense they specialize in performance upgrades for the 6 cylinder engine, I would think that all there carburetors are optimulely (sp) tuned before they are sold. Those people who have bought theirs from Clifford said it was a bolt on upgrade. Never heard anyone say otherwise. Then again, for 300+ dollars I would hope so. :roll: :wink:

The link below is from one of my previous posts regarding the Weber 32/36. If you haven't read it, do so. It includes manufacturing tuning (which is very easy) as well as information from personal experience.

http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=23153

If you guys have any more questions, I'd be happy to try an answer your questions. If I don't have the answer, I'll tell you but I won't leave you guessing - I'll research a possible solution to your problem and get back with you as soon as possible.

Can you tell I like these carburetors? :roll: :D

Oh, more thing. Almost forgot. Look at your spark plugs. If they are nice an white with a little red tint on the tips you should be fine. Any other color, wether black and sooty or gray, you have a problem. You could be too rich or have another problem - i.e. timing.

Do a search on spark plugs. There are several good discussions as to what they should look like. Or read the back of any repair manual. Haynes usually shows a picture of typical spark plug conditions and describes what it possibly going on based on the appearance of the plug.
 
matt_hue":2uqfqci7 said:
Do you need to remove the carb to change all the jets? Also do the weber's that you buy from clifford come set up for a four cyl. or do they rejet them for the six or specific application? Trying to figure out what I've got without tearing things apart.

Sorry, over looked your question about removing the carburetor. No, you shouldn't have to remove it to get to all of the jets.
 
As usual, thanks for all the great info. I will take a look at the jets and see what size I have. Thanks again.

Bob
 
I have the 34's on mine and they use the same jets from what I'm told. I have a 165 main right now with some bog,but not too bad. I have a 65 idle that I drilled out to a 70 and that seems to make it idle pretty well.
 
Do you mean the 34 ICT or ICH?

A stock Weber 34 will have the following jets.

Manual Choke ICH:

Main Jet 165
Air Corrector Jet 190
Idle Jet 50

No Choke ICT:

Main Jet 130
Air Corrector Jet 160
Idle Jet 52
 
I finally got around to pulling the top of the carb and this is what I found:

:The two jets in the bowl below the float are 140
:The two jets on top of the carb are 170. At least the forward jet is, the back jet I can't read what is stamped on the top.
: the primary idle is 60
: the secondary idle is 50

Based on this, am I correct in assuming I need to bump the 140's to 160's and the 170's to 190's. Also, the Primary Idle needs to go to 75 and the secondary idle to 65/

Sorry I don't know the correct name for each jet.

Bob
 
Bob, yes, those jets are too small - especially the idle jets.

When I first started using these carburetors I found out the best combination for idle, performance and fuel economy is basically what I have originally posted. But remember, not all engines are the same. They maybe the same CID but there are many variables that will cause two identically looking motors to run completely different (i.e. compression, timing, natural wear and tear, etc.)

Personally I would increase your idles jets first. Then, once you have the "best lean idle" (Weber term) drive the car for about a week or so. At the end of that term, pull the spark plugs and check the condition of the electrodes (tips). If they are completely white or have a red tint to them then your fuel/air mixture is too lean - not good. This will require an increase in your main jets and air corrector jets. Try installing ones two sizes larger. In your case that would be 150's and 180's. Then, drive the car again for about a week. Check the plugs again...see the pattern yet. :wink:

However, if after the initial trial run the spark plugs look a little dark in color with a slight tan color to the tips, then you have two options. Increase your main and air corrector jets for better performance or leave them and enjoy the ride.

I just got back from vacation and found out the cylinder head I had in the shop (again, more work) has a small fracture in the wall casting around the number two cumbustion camber. And this was my duel Weber head. :x
 
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