Weber DGVEmulsion Tube

stanyon

Well-known member
I am rebuilding a used 32/36 for my 200, and the carb was originally jetted for a 4 cyd. engine. Should I worry about the emulsion tubes ? and if so how do you remove them.
 
stanyon":9mcc7bl0 said:
I am rebuilding a used 32/36 for my 200, and the carb was originally jetted for a 4 cyd. engine. Should I worry about the emulsion tubes ? and if so how do you remove them.

The E-tubes are under the two jets exposed with the carb top removed between the bowl and throttle bores. There are three sets of jets (if the 32/36 is similar to the 38 Outlaw, I'm thinking it is) in the Weber: the two under the top, two more in the bowl, and two on the outside, Idle Jets. I don't have my paperwork with me but here are some links I used for my 38, RodC.


http://www.classicinlines.com/WeberTune.asp


http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/WeberCa ... _s/274.htm

....and for some real reading, this link also covers 32/36s mostly Jeeps, ;)

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/weber ... dex14.html
 
Eight things from practical experience messing around with these brilliant staged secondary Weber carbs.

Before you even start, the 32/36 DGV carb will require extensive recalibration to suit even a moderately modified I6. The 38 DGAS/DGEV are better choices.

http://www.redlineweber.com/html/applic ... ice_32.htm

1. All version of the DGV series of Weber staged secondary carbs are optimized to suit application, with no two really being anything like each other unless you know exactly what to look for in the model name stamped on it.

2.Some 32/36's have

a) a second line for bleed back valves to a return line to the fuel tank, and can take 5 psi from a standard Ford I6 pump easily. Others don't, and need a pressure regulator set down to 2.5 psi or so. and
b) a Ventilation tube like this 38/38 DGAS

38DGASCARBPCVline.jpg


3. the float specs can be different depending on which sub model used...there are Bressel, Spain, Weber Italy, and Holley or Borg Warner made versions of this model; See viewtopic.php?t=70490

4.some have no primary squirter, it is blanked off on some emission set ups because Ford had an auxiliary set up on some emissionised Australian 2000cc Escort and Cortinas with this carb

5.In some rare cases, some have different primary and secondary venturi sizes. The Holley Weber 5200 and Euro 32/36 Weber is a 227 to 230 cfm carb at a 25"H20 pressure drop (1.85"hg) with the standard Pinto sized 26 and 27 mm venturis. Other ratings of 215, 235 and 270 cfm are at different pressures, and some had 23 mm primaries, and flow less. 99% of the time, the DGV 32/36 is a 26/27 mm venturi carb

6.The Right-hand DGV sometimes has the mirror image Left-hand Holley Weber 5200 or Fiesta DFV or DFEV parts swapped in, and when the wrong parts are accidentally swapped between the common US Holley Weber and imported DGV Weber carbs, you can end up in a whole pile of trouble looking for black cats in black rooms.

7. Once you have those sorted, you will the find the Weber is very sensitive to all aspects of primary and secondary jet and air bleed, and emulsion tube. Our guys here often adjust too coarse, and miss the sweet spot because the common Weber jets come in 5 thou call sizes. That's simply far to big a change. I'd go for 1 call size change each time for primary and secondary jets.

Factory 2.8 liter V6's ran 67 jets (170 micron) in the primary and 49 jets (125 micron) for the secondary in just a Holley Weber 5200.The close limit green jets, and later ones run cc/min or micron sizes. I'm all for the imperial, but I also grew up on these carbs in Pinto engined Cortinas, and a set of 5 thou in call size is freeking huge in flow. We'd change a jet size only in 5 micron steps, which is just 2 imperial call sizes. So if 45, 50, or 55 doesn't work and is too lean, go 47, 52, or 57 equivalents, not 50, 55, or 60.

So #45 would be 152 cc/min or 115 micron
#50 would be 216 cc/min or 127 micron, but correct selections are often 132, which is what a 52 would be if you could get one.
and #55 would be 275 cc/min or 140 micron.

8. Then you use the following links from

http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki ... Carburetor to find the differences

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=23153 to get the Ford Six specific problems we find

and viewtopic.php?f=1&t=49901&p=444078#p444078 BIGREDRASA's jetting table



and viewtopic.php?t=23153&highlight=jetting+tips for extra in depth information

and for any problems, http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/weber ... n-1051137/

From viewtopic.php?f=1&t=66652&p=511834#p511834

Both the Weber and Holley Webers use F2 to F78 trim emulsion #61440 tubes,
F50 primary, F6 sec for water or electric choke,
F50/F50 for earlier manual choke ,
F2's in the secondary was used for the 171 cube/2800 cc Cologne V6 had and there are other differences to air bleeds.

The F2 emulsion tube is around for #61440 carbs, our DGV, DGMS, but also ADM, ICH, and 40/46 IDA Weber
{32/36 DGV, DGAV, 38 DGMS, DGAS, ADM, 40-46 IDA (triple barrel), 34 ICT, 34 ICH and a number of other Weber carburettor models.}

http://www.weberperformance.com.au/prod ... cts_id=973

DGVe-tube-250.jpg
 
...here's a comment from my previous H/W carb 'fun' post which illustrate's xctacy's comment - " brilliant staged secondary Weber carbs.... no two really being anything like each other"

A clean "rebuilt" 5200 of questionable origin installed with a 2X1 adapter on my 170 wagon ran with typical off-idle bog. No difference with bigger or smaller jets (?). Found Ebay- dirty/as used Capri 2.8 liter (170cid) spec 5200 H/W carb nad and ran great as-is and dirty (?). Swapped in jets to the clean rebuilt carb and still ran like crap, the bog-carb jets put into 2.8 spec 5200 run fine (?) (see emulsion tubes ? ). @ seven years later the 170/5200 still run great... Smooth consistent idle, economical (primary Bbl) light cruise performance and decent interstate ramp 2Bbl max-CFM performance. (I use fuel reg' and filter right in front of H/w)


. . . .
.


... PS clean "rebuilt" 5200 available,
... your smile-age may vary
 
When you run a big cam, you might need to change emulsion tubes.

Now three questions.

First, Powerband, what were the stamped Well Tube marks on the ex Cologne V6 5200 you had?

Second. stanyonHave you sorted and verified your 278 Clay Smith cam card yet.

Third. stanyon. You are using the 32 36 DFAV aren't you?


Elsewhere, I've been doing some research, and the 5200 Holley Weber kit has some differences the 32 36 DFAV. Holley calls it a well tube, and it has 14R XXXX re order part number, but is physically stamped with numbers like 04, 05, 74, 75 common.


That is if the well tube is stamped 04 its part number is = 14R 1004
05= 14R 1005
74=14R 974
75=14R 975


Weber has a whole brace of 65 call names skipping through F1 to F87 for the similar 61440.xxx series emulsion tubes http://www.webercarburatori.com/?p=handbook&s=2. There are 13 heights from 30.5 to 53 mm, and about 5 hole and tube width combinations which make up the 65 tubes. Some aren't compatible with the different float types, even though they fit the well/emulsion tube


This is from what Holley and Colt Industries developed the 14R xxxx series from.


The Holley Well tubes and Weber Emulsion tubes can be swapped, and allow the engine to run in a more healthy, higher performance setting. Turbo 974 and 974 well tubes can be used for draw through 5200 and 32/36's, as this is what Ford designed them to do in the 2.3 Carb Turbo Mustangs.

Below is not related specifically to the part numbers of common 32/36 and 5200 series tubes, but it shows graphically what a savage difference in emulsion tube/well tube hole size and pattern does.Air fuel ratio is changed every-time a different emulsion/well tube hole pattern is used.



There are other fuel jet call number differences between Weber and Holley Webers, but once you understand them, the jets and Emulsion tubes can be swapped around if they match.
If you wanna do it from first principals, then listen to this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1pkFSA_ ... e=youtu.be


And then look at this 61450 series IR Port on Port Weber Emulsion Tube sketch, which isn't for our 61440.xxx series DF, DG, and 5200/5210/5220/6500/6520 series staged and synchro dual throats.

It shows what David Vizard was on about.




and read this. http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthread.php?t=169101


On the Jeep forum, they have gotten into the Weber 61440.xxx emulsion tubes, and made some custom F-THIS ones very easily from some F7's to suit the 4.0 and 258 Jeep sixes with the 32/36 AND 38 series carbs.:mrgreen:

Based on previous experiences and this most recent work, I'm going to offer up some broad generalizations while it's still fresh in my mind and wait for your feedback.

The activation point and also the mixture strength of the main circuit is controlled by the emulsion tube to a much greater extent than the main jet or air corrector. It also is the key to how well the main circuit responds to large throttle openings and overall mixture consistency, once activated.

The true mixture strength or sizing of the main jet is measured down lower in the rpm range (2,500 rpm) at WOT and is influenced to a lesser extent by the lower holes of the emulsion tube.

The WOT mixture at the top of the rpm range is most influenced by and adjusted with the air corrector

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/weber ... ndex6.html

The only other thing that makes the 32/36 and its 5200 difficult is the little changes AMC/ GM/ Mopar and Ford requested each year from 1969 to 1983 (when these carbs were no longer used in the Big Fours Domestic Pacers, Chevettes, K cars and Pinto's/Rangers and Fox bodies). Each year they did a whole heap of fiddles, and as powerband has found, sometimes with all the bits swapped over, no two behave alike. Usually float setting, air bleeds or axillary squirters are changed subtly, and then you have jets, well tubes and air correctors and curb idle throttle settings and secondary flat or rich spots. Once these little changes are filtered out, you can have a lot of fun.
 
Hello ,
I rebuilt a 32/36 too for my 200 , it's stock engine with only DSII.
I see link but I do'nt know what is the good jets choise for my engine .
Could you help me ?
thanks
 
1966_l6":aqtmta5m said:
Hello ,
I rebuilt a 32/36 too for my 200 , it's stock engine with only DSII.
I see link but I do'nt know what is the good jets choise for my engine .
Could you help me ?
thanks


1. Use the fuel jets that came with it for a start.

Know if they are stamped in
Micron (mm times 100), [most common eg 135 for primary]
Flow (cc/min), [often used eg 255 for primary]
Thou [not common eg 53.15 thou]
Holley Weber Part Number [only for 5200/5210/5220/6510/6520, but a primary jet would be 124-255-22R 103-135]


EarlyWeberandUSHolleyWeberGreenandBrassJets.jpg


Green ones were close limit jets, which had closer steps, less than 5 units different in cc/min flow rate, sometimes 1 or 2 numbers.

The Weber literature has 61440 series emulsion tubes that tailor the fuel curve more than the fuel jetting. On our Ford Six site, we quote 14 R XXXX Holley Weber 5200 jetting with special well tube numbers like 04, 05, 15, 16, 74, 75, 93, 94 being common but with no data on Weber 32/36 to Holley Weber 5200 interchange available. And that is the real key...Holley USA had worked out everything about there 5200/5210/5220/6510/6520 version of the Weber carb very early on, and the US carbs changed the well tubes much more than the Weber 32/36's ever did, just to make the air fuel ratios suit emissions requirements. When tuning a 32/36, the emulsion tube/well tubes make more of a change than the fuel and air corrector jets!


2. The Stock Emulsion tubes vary depending on the type of choke, most European Weber 32/36 carbs are ex rear drive 1970-1983 Ford OHC engines like those found on some year 1.6/2.0 Capri/Taunus/Cortina/Transit/Granada/Sierra, and are sized to suit the vacuum needs of a 75 to 102 PS 97 to 121 cubic inch engine. Depending on where they were sold (some were ECE emissions engines for Sweden and Switzerland, which used US 1973/1974 Pinto and 1976-1982 Australian Cortina jetting) and where they were made (Spain/Bressel/Weber), they have different set ups for float levels, return lines, float types with different settings, and base jetting and emulsion tubes. They didn't change that much. though, and there is a series number and details on them to figure out what should be there.

Stock emulsion tubes are Primary F50 /Secondary F6 on auto choke 32/36's, or Primary F50/Secondary F50 on manual choke.

All our Falcons down here ran 34 Weber ADM carbs a 34/34 carb with 29 mm venturis, 137 primary and 210 secondary jets, and F66 emulsion tubes on primary and secondary for 120 to 149 ps cross flows, so that's as big on Emulsion tube and jets and venturis that you should go.

You can upsize the venturs to 29 and 31 mm respectively by using MercuryMarc's method

http://homepage.mac.com/jaffes/cometcar ... bum31.html

a stock 5200 Holley Weber, which can be routed out to 29 and 31 mm venturis and still work, as well as flow 336 cfm at 3" Hg like this one by Mercury Marc (an Aussie told him how to do it!)



And your best jetting selections with the stock primary emulsion tube F50/ and Secondary emulsion tube F6 are the following:-

http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php? ... 3&start=50

Front mounted as per Pinto practice

Redfalken":aqtmta5m said:
Here's the most recent settings for my 32/36 DGV:

Main Primary: 145
Main Secondary: 150
Air Jet Primary: 185
Air Jet Secondary: 170
Idle Primary: 70
Idle Secondary: 75

I had an O2 bung welded into the pipe just past where it meets the manifold and used a friends wideband O2 sensor to take readings on a few test drives. It runs stoich and my only complaint is a really lean spike when I punch the throttle. The engine will stumble but it goes away pretty quick. I bought a larger accelerator pump jet that squirts down both venturis but I haven't installed it yet.

I'm rebuilding a new cylinder head to install in a few months. I'll take new readings and will post if I change anything.

I would be interested to see what others are using and if anyone else has the flat spot when accelerating quickly.

Check out his fuel pressure and carb adapter and electronic ignition http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php? ... 74#p239874




Sideways mounted as per standard American practice

MiniCJJ64":aqtmta5m said:
Ok I finally have the time to update. I checked my float level and closed it was 35mm and my float is made of brass. So I changed it to 41mm, like told. What a difference, no more problems going left. Now for the jets I order all the jets and got some wrong so I sent them back, that took forever. Anyways this is my set up. I THINK!
Main primary: 160
Main secondary: 165
Air jet primary: 185
Air jet secondary: 175
Idle primary: 70
Idle secondary: 75
Accelerator Pump jet: double pump 60

I know for sure I can get it to run better. The Idle can be richer because the mixer screw is out 3-4 turns out. Also the car has accelerated better in the past, so I have to see if the jets are to lean or rich and I have to check to see if the accelerator pump jet is to rich.
I just saw that the air jets might need to be switched around, what do you guys think.

And with modified emulsion tubes, drilled jets and accelerator pump stroke

http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php? ... 93#p539493

aribert":aqtmta5m said:
I am a bit late in responding to the previous posting - I needed to fetch some .jpgs. I am very hesitant to post my jetting. I am not afraid to drill jets larger (except for idle jets w/ two holes - I have jet to figure out what hole does what).

After reading one of John Passini's Weber books (unable to find it or my Haynes Weber book at the moment); I modified my emulsion tubes by soldering up the lower holes and drilling holes higher up. See comparison of various tubes: http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll27 ... 6634f4.jpg But with out my reference material, I don't remember if what I did leaned or richened things up at higher rpms. I also modified the acceleration pump cam to increase the stroke: http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll27 ... stroke.jpg

http://fordsix.com/forum/posting.php?mo ... 1&p=492041
aribert":aqtmta5m said:
Pump jet: I started with a 55/55 and slowly drilled up in size (primarily on the primary side). Using a number 73 drill got me to 61, #72 to 64/55, then #71 & #73 for 66/61, #67 & #70 for 80/71 and finally #65 for 89/71. These small drills typically run about $0.40 to 0.75 each. An import set of number drills from 61 to 80 (they get smaller as the number increases) is about $20. Sometimes I buy metric drills but a lot of the time I will use a number drill that is close. These kind of specialty items are typically available at a "tool supply" store (where machine shops and similar buy supplies). I don't know if you live near Houston or are there only for your step daughter's treatment, Wholesale Tool of Texas is on Pinemont near Hempstead Hwy (I see US290 is now known as the Northwest freeway) quite a ways from MD Anderson . I used to buy stuff there back in the early '80s now I occasionaly shop at the Warren, MI store. I tried to surf their web page for a link the the drill bit set but their web search sucks.

THis winter I intend to increase the pump shot by modifying the cam that actuates the accell pump lever.
 
stanyon":39mfrpdj said:
I am rebuilding a used 32/36 for my 200, and the carb was originally jetted for a 4 cyd. engine. Should I worry about the emulsion tubes ? and if so how do you remove them.


The answer I should have given you is

Stock emulsion tubes are Primary F50 /Secondary F6 on auto choke 32/36's, or Primary F50/Secondary F50 on manual choke.

All our Falcons down here ran 34 Weber ADM carbs a 34/34 carb with 29 mm venturis, 137 primary and 210 secondary jets, and F66 emulsion tubes on primary and secondary for 120 to 149 ps cross flows, so that's as big on Emulsion tube and jets and venturis that you should go.

You can upsize the venturis to 29 and 31 mm


A good start is powerband's 160 to 171 micron primary (63 to 67 thou), and 180 micron secondary (71 thou), which is what the 477 is...477 cc/min.

The 2.8 Capri, Mustang II and Pinto probably ran an F66 primary and an F2 secondary emulsion tube. But the US Holley Weber emulsion tubes are called well tubes, and stamped with special well tube numbers like 04, 05, 15, 16, 74, 75, 93, 94 being common, and I have no interchange to help you sorry. Those Weber emulsion tubes will get you in ballpark without too much fiddling about.


Oh yeah, I found them. The Holley Weber 5200 series 14R 1005 '05' well tubes also fit the Holley G 180 and Weber 32/36 DGV/ DFV/ DIR and 34 ADM. 32 DIR DAR DARA,32 DGV DGAV DGEV,32/36 DGV DGAV DGEV,32/36 DFV DFAV,32 ADF 34 ADF 34 ADM,38 DGAS DGMS ,40 DFAV. Score!

!CE7oh2gCWk~$(KGrHqEOKowE0flj8+qYBNTgHe2HBg~~_12.JPG


The 14R 1004 '04' are here too
http://www.ebay.com/itm/EMULSION-TUBE-T ... 0673209098

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/ODkzWDExOTE=/$(KGrHqFHJ!8E7)76)zQSBPFRK+!Pcw~~60_57.JPG
 
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