Weight of two similar carbs...

[Anonymous]

First off, just back from the Persian Gulf on July 1st and damn glad to be back in the good old USA.

Now about Mustangs....

I have two Holley 2100 carbs. I'm looking into which one to use to upgrade from my 1100. Also have a new rebuilt dizzy to go with the carb. Finally will be rid of the SCV nightmare...

Question is, the two carbs are similar yet oddly different. But both were supposed to be Holley 2100s.

Also the silver one feels to be made of lightweight pot metal weighing about 1.5 pounds. While the dark one, no kidding, must weight 5 or 6 pounds and feels like cast iron.

Can anyone ID them from the pics? Any info on the difference in weight...could it be age or different style 2100? Or is one autolite and one a Holley?

Thanks,
Steve-O

 

[Anonymous]

The one on the right is definitely an Autolite 2100. I have one exactly like it. The other, I don't know.

 

[Stubby]

Holley 2300 on the left.


Motorcraft on the right.


I think they are basicaly the same as far as the way they function but the Holley can be too big. What is the number on the Holley air horn?

 

[Anonymous]

The heavy dark carb says Holley 7448 on the air horn.

The lighter one says Holley Remanufactured 548317, 64-5345 and C5ZF B on the side.

I found out that neither one would fit with a Clifford adapter. The end of the adapter itself interferes with the rotation of the throttle linkages. I couldn't even test fit the carb to the adapter.

I happened to have a Summit TransDapt adapter that had cutout sides for the throttle parts and it fits great.

Only concern is how to rig up a throttle connection. I'll most likely go with a cable set up.

Currently I have two vac take offs; one from the carb to the dizzy and one from the current carb adapter to the PCV take off on the valve cover.

The Holley reman carb (light silver one) has a dizzy take off, so that's okay. But the TransDapt adapter does not have a take off for the PCV valve.

Can I use the screw out bolt on the intake log for the PCV take off line to the valve cover?

 

[Anonymous]

I have the Clifford adapter also, and it does interefere with the 2100 throttle linkage as delivered. I had to shave mine down some to make it fit, but it's not too hard.

You will need to go to a cable setup, since the throttle pull will be toward the driver shock tower. You can either do a full cable (attached at the pedal), or you can get a V8 throttle rod (terminates on the driver side of the firewall) and go cable from there to the carb. That's what I did. The stud on the stock valve cover makes a good place to mount your cable hard point.

As for the PCV connection--if you file the Clifford a bit to make the carb fit, your vacuum connection will be available on the adapter--you'll just need to get a hose nipple.

Not sure what bolt you're talking about on the log, but as long as it's between the throttle plates and the intake valves it should be OK too.

 

[simon]

The lighter one says Holley Remanufactured 548317, 64-5345 and C5ZF B on the side.

It says so because Ford had a nasty habit of outsourcing their carburetor replacement/rebuild program in the early seventies. There are countless autolite carbs that bear holley nametags because of that.

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy All:

Steve-O- welcome home.

The Autolite 2100 is from a 1965 260 or 289 V8. It has 1.14 venturis inner diameter and is rated at 300 cfm.

The Holley 2300 is a generic two barrel used in a variety of factory and aftermarket applications. It is rated at 350 cfm

Both have advantages and disadvantages.
2100-
*Lighter
*very simple, sturdy design
*Has annular discharge venturi booster for smoother transition.
*Better bowl venting.
*no gasket lines below the fuel level.
*Holley power valves can be used for more precise tuning.
The downside is that these carbs are no longer being manufactured. Jets are unique and hard to find.

2300-
*Very sturdy.
*Very tuneable.
*still being manufactured, and parts are easy to find. They are basically the front half of a 4160 four barrel.
The downside is they are somewhat expensive and require more tuning to get right, but tuning is easy once you understand the functions and relationships.

If your engine is fairly stock, I'd suggest the 2100, because it will be very close to right, as is. You may need to turn the air screws out more than the usualy 1 1/2 turns, to get a good idle and off idle transition.

Hope that helps.

Adios, David

 

[Anonymous]

David,
Thanks for the tips.
Steve-O