Welding an alloy head

I have a bare Xflow head with a couple cracks in the chambers. being an Alloy head is it that tough to find a place that will weld it up? will it need heat treat then?

right now it is just a mock up head but i am thinking of some mild port cleanup on it, larger valves, rockers, etc for a soild built head.

if not doable it will continue being a mockup head.
 
8) actually aluminum is easier to weld than iron is since you dont need a furnace to preheat the head. and yes the welding if properly done is solid. i have seen welded aluminum blocks withstand 5000hp with no problem.
 
not to pitch a customer/ex employer, but find a shop that uses Centroid CNC controls with the cylinder head package.

they can scan a good hole, flow metal into the bad one, and recut the bad one good as new (it was one of the demos we did at PRI)
 
XFlow_Fairlane":s0uuvsnm said:
how easy is it to find a shop that will do it? or can a regular welding shop handle it if I have the seats removed?
There's plenty of race shops in our area(yours and mine), should have no trouble!
 
XFlow_Fairlane":12ge1cb7 said:
I have a bare Xflow head with a couple cracks in the chambers. being an Alloy head is it that tough to find a place that will weld it up? will it need heat treat then?

right now it is just a mock up head but i am thinking of some mild port cleanup on it, larger valves, rockers, etc for a soild built head.

if not doable it will continue being a mockup head.

hi, if your cracks are between the two seats (about 2mm long) then they are ok and dont leak.. 99% of aussie alloy heads which are marked C1, C1A, C2 or C2A are cracked here.. no need to get them welded....
if you are going bigger valves then only go bigger on the inlet, 1.85" is great.. the std heads are over exhausted from factoy and respond great with just the bigger inlet and a single patern cam with no extra lift or duration on the exhaust will help too..cheers
 
Back
Top