What 1-B Carb do you feel works best on the 144-200 6 Cyl?

[choppermike]

I know the Autolite 1100 came standard on the small six. I have the Holley 1940 on my 66 200, but I have also seen the Carters used. Can anyone tell me which one works best for a DD? I am in need of a replacement or rebuild and was curious as to what to get. I want to stay with the 1-barrel on my stock engine.

 

[CoupeBoy]

My vote for the YF was purely speculation. My buddy has a '66 200/2.77 and when he upgraded his original 1100 to a YF that Colorado66 gave him there was a difference of night and day. The throttle response was better, his fuel mileage improved. But it could have been that his old 1100 was worn out also. It bolted in place of the original, I think the only thing we had to change was the rubber fuel line that goes to the carb, the linkage hooked up and his original air filter worked.

-ron

 

[Eric Rose]

I like my Carter YF pretty well. You can adapt them for manual, hot air, or even electric choke easily, they are a good match with the later heads with the bigger carb spacers, and they are very simple mechanically.

One possibile drawback to the YF is that the linkage on the YF's is set perpendicular to the log for the cable throttle, so using a YF requires modification of the original throttle linkage on the earlier Falcons/Mustangs or a swap to cable throttle. They also lack a SCV so they might not work very well with the Load-O-Matic distributors. Mine works great with my DSII though 8)

I am thinking that the overall best carb for any engine will depend on a number of variables like the size of the carb flange on the head, the type of distributor used, how factory original you want the engine to look, etc.

Since I haven't tried any of the other 1v carbs I can't really give you an objective opinion. I'm definitely watching this thread though.

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Back Mike and all:

Eric already said it- The term "best" requires more specifics. Like is this engine stock? If not, what mods? Is this a bolt-on, no modifications carb?

If the above is true then, hands down, the Autolite 1100 is the best. It is a bolt on, has a SCV for the correct vacuum signal to the OEM L-O-M distributor, can be specific to manual or auto trans, and is the correct original carb. They are cheap and easy to rebuild.

If you want a stock appearing performance boost, with minor modifications then an Autolite 1101 would be my choice. It's cfm compared to an 1100 is 215 vs 185. A carb from a '63 or '63 Ford car with a 223 six has a SCV and very similar linkage, air cleaner attachment and fuel lines. The only modification is to flair the top of the carb adapter to clear the larger diameter butterfly of the 1101. Properly tuned an 1101 will yeild about the same mpg as an 1100 and usually better then a Holley 1940.

If you want the best for a daily driver you really should consider upgrading the OEM Load-O-Matic, points distributor. Either upgrade this distributor to a (1) Petronix Ignitor, or (2) swap to a later or aftermarket pointless electronic ignition. Doing away with the point system is only a small part of the improvements over the L-O-M distributor. You will also get quicker, easier starting, more power, better economy and a cleaner running engine. The down-side of the second option is that these distributors require a carb that sends a ported vacuum signal (in a stock cammed engine) to the vacuum advance system in the distributor. If you choose option 2 for ignition, then I'd suggest a Carter YF (good) or an Autolite 1101 (best) from a '69 Mustang with a 250 engine. Both will have a ported vacuum port. The Yf will require a different linkage adaptation, slight mods to the fuel line and air cleaner mount. The 1101 mod is the same as above.

All of these carbs have weaknesses- but are easily and cheaply rebuilt as a DIY. Please note that the Holley 1940 does not may any of my choice lists anywhere.

Keep us posted on your choice and how it goes.

Adios, David

 

[choppermike]

Just got my falcon handbook in the mail- Let me add some more info- 66 stock engine, Mallory Unilite dizzy no vac advance. So any carb should work fine. This is new to me and just found out recently the 1940's didn't come stock so I have been having problems with it and now looking for a replacement. I just wanted to see what everyone is running and make my choice.
Thanks

 

[Gene Fiore]

I have a good YF that I just took off my 250 that runs excellent. I just replaced it with a Holley 2bbl for racing purposes, so I won't be using it again. Send me a pm if you are interested.

 

[LaGrasta]

I have the 1940 and have put about 30k on it thus far with one rebuild. I get around 20mpg and haven't really touched it much at all. I can't imagine being any more satisfied with another.

I haver been considering the Pony Carbs "atomizer" but purely for the supposed claim of significantly better mpg. AT $400, i've been skeptical about testing this claim.

 

[JackFish]

I have no complaints about the Holley 1946 that is stock on my '78s.
Except for having to find something that isn't already worn out.
The early ones are better as they have fewer emissions stuff.
Tuned and clean they provide sufficient power and economy for a daily driver.
And they have a variety of ports for vacuum options.

 

[salty_monk]

I have the 1940 on a 200 & it seems to work fine.... Works much better with a DS II ignition than the loadamatic. I plugged the SCV port & use manifold vacuum on the dizzy.

I have an Autolite 1100 or 1101 (not sure which) that I might give a try at some time in the near future.... Need to get some gaskets, connector etc.

Good thread, thanks!

Dan

 

[choppermike]

I have a good YF that I just took off my 250 that runs excellent. I just replaced it with a Holley 2bbl for racing purposes, so I won't be using it again. Send me a pm if you are interested.

Gene has a YF, but I found in some other thread you have to change over to a cable pedal in my 65 stang. Is this true? If so has anyone done this? and how hard and from what vehicle?

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Back Mike:

From above "Both will have a ported vacuum port. The Yf will require a different linkage adaptation, slight mods to the fuel line and air cleaner mount."

OEM the YF had a cable linking the accelerator pedal to the carb. It passes over the valve cover through an attachment and to the carb. many make this conversion to simplify linkage. Others adapt the stock '66 mechanical linkage to the YF. Converting to cable linkage is a fairly easy and nice upgrade.

Adios, David

 

[Eric Rose]

Gene has a YF, but I found in some other thread you have to change over to a cable pedal in my 65 stang. Is this true? If so has anyone done this? and how hard and from what vehicle?

My '62 Falcon was already converted when I bought it but they didn't get it quite right. I had to cut about 2" off of the cable and use a cable nut to get it to the right length. Works great now. I am thinking the parts on mine came from a Maverick. The whole pedal assembly just bolts to the firewall with 2 bolts. And then theres a bracket that mounts the cable to the engine that bolts on using 2 bolts where the coil goes on the driver's side of the motor and a third on on of the carb studs.

 

[choppermike]

OK Gene offered to sell me his YF from a 250, but at this time I cant go anymore mods (money). Question----my Uncle has a YF from an early to mid 70s 250 and I put my spacer on it and it is much smaller than the butterfly so Iwas wondering how I would even go about fitting a YF from a 250 on my 66 2oo? New spacer or does someone offer a small 1b to a larger 1b? I wont be able to do this til I locate the throttle brackets. But any info will get me on the right track.

 

[choppermike]

has anyone else has put a 250 carb on a 200?. If so tips or tricks on modifying the spacer?