What cam do you use/recommend?

Based on my build, what cam do you recomment?

  • 268/274 (110*) Hydraulic Dual Pattern

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • 264 (110*) Hydraulic Single Pattern

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • 264 (112*) Hydraulic Single Pattern Camshaft

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • 264/274 (110*) Hydraulic Dual Pattern

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • 264/274 (112*) Hydraulic Dual Pattern

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • 274 (110*) Hydraulic Single Pattern Camshaft

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • 274 (112*) Hydraulic Single Pattern Camshaft

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    0

cfmustang

Famous Member
A lot of people on this forum remember all the issues I had getting my timing and carburetion sorted out last year. Well, after about 4 months of really getting to drive the car without all the issues, I am still under whelmed by the performance of my engine.

What I don't like: vacuum is still low, there is no improvement in power off the line, and the idle has to be kept high enough that with the tranny in gear with the brakes engaged, I am about at my torque converters stall speed so I am fighting the C4 at stop lights.

What did I like: the top fuel lope the car has at idle. When I show up at cruises, I love the looks I get as I creep the car by the other cars. They hear the lope of an outrageous big block with the higher tone of our sixes and they don't know what to think.

The problem is the other issues have finally outweighed the one good thing.

I am simply running too much cam. It is at least a Clifford 272 single pattern with 110* (although it may be their 280. I always remembered my dad ordering the 272 but the machine shop paperwork from the rebuild a couple years ago clearly says 280 - I'm stumped since I can't find any of the original paperwork). Also, the first rebuild was with Rhodes lifters and the second rebuild was with stock lifters.

I am going to bite the bullet and replace the cam. It also gives me an excuse to replace my slipped balancer. While I am at it, I am considering Mike's dual timing set (even though the gears and chain were replaced with stock replacements two years ago).

Based on people’s experiences here, I am wondering what to go with. Remember, this is an automatic with the 2.73 rear-end. I would like to finally feel some power, still have some lope to turn heads, but without the current headaches.

In particular, I would like to hear from people with similar builds.

At first glance, I am leaning toward the 264/274 (110*) Hydraulic Dual Pattern.
 
When I bought my cam,Mike recommended 112* duration and the 264/274 pattern for automatic transmission. I don't have mine in yet, so I'm sorry I can't report on the performance.
The rear gears are to high for exceptional off-the-line performance.
You have a cam for a manual tranny.
 
You don't need a new cam, you need lower gears! :shock: If your cam is a 280 and 110* most cam compaines reccomend 3:55 rear gears or lower. You stated you love the engine lope you now have, I have the 264/274 @ 112* their is almost no lope! If you have a 8" rear end just change the whole pumkin you can still find 8" pumkins at some wrecking yards, the 3:55 gears are a little harder to find, I just got new 3:80 gears off ebay auction for $51.00 my local shop will set them up in a extra pumkin I have for $150.00 this is much easier than pulling the engine and installing a new cam, besides your cam is fine you just don't have the correct gears for running an automatic Trans.....I vote keep the cam and get lower gears.....If you still have a 7.25 rear end you can still find these lowered reing and pinion gear sets on ebay form time to time!
 
I have the stock 4-lug, 7 3/4" rear end. No swapping gears with that rear-end.

Quite frankly, the skill required to swap out the rear is way beyond me (as is the budget). I may do it some day, but that is way down the road.

Besides, the low vacuum from the overlap makes this setup a pain to keep in tune and I would need a higher-stall torque converter as well. The gears would help the pickup, but not the tranny issues I currently have.

The more I think of it, I think it may have been the Rhodes lifters from the first rebuild that kept this combo so drivable the first time around. I assumed they didn't really do anything, but I may have been wrong. They are supposed to drop the duration about 10* at idle. That would effectively put it at 262 - 270* (depending on what cam it really is) when it had the Rhodes lifters. Back then, no issues tuning or driving.
 
Well you can still have lower gears installed even in a 7.25 rear end! It has nothing to do with the number of lug bolts. I have changed rear ends and installed cam's, I'd rather do a rear end swap than a cam :lol:

Tire diameter / Gear Ratio for 2:73 rear and 25" tires
your car with 2:73 Gears
1000 rpm 27.25 mph
1500 rpm 40.28 mph
2000 rpm 54.50 mph
2500 rpm 68.10 mph
3000 rpm 81.76 mph
3500 rpm 95.31 mph
4000 rpm 109.01 mph

Your car with 3:55 Gears
1000 rpm 20.95 mph
1500 rpm 31.43 mph
2000 rpm 41.91 mph
2500 rpm 52.38 mph
3000 rpm 62.87 mph
3500 rpm 73.35 mph
4000 rpm 83.83 mph
4500 rpm 94.31 mph

Right now lower gears will give you the best bang for your buck, a new cam may fix your vacumn issues but will do almost nothing about having too high of gear ratio (2:73)..........
 
I thought the 7 1/4 rear-end was a solid carrier (not a removable pumpkin). I had always heard that was no way to swap the gears in that rear-end.
 
It is but the ring and Pinion can still be changed the rear inspection plate comes off and the gear is removed from the axel assembly a little more work but most any good shop can install new gears for you and it would give you the power that you want, your engine is built to make the power but unless you rev up to 4,000 or 5,000 rpm you'll never see the power. You should really look into either changing to an 8" with lower gears or having your 7.25" gears changed.
 
Ben is dead-on about the relative cost/value equation. Setting up gears costs about the same no matter what type of housing, but you will experience more imparted value to the car if you swap to an eight or nine inch diff at the same time.

FWIW, I voted for the smaller cam. Your posts show something of a conservative nature, the car is an auto so no way would I push you out on a limb with something like cam choice. If you liked to thrash things within an inch of their life, I'd suggest something different.

Regards, Adam.
 
Wierd. I thought a lot of you guys were running the dual pattern or single pattern with 110* lobe centers.

Can I hear from you guys? Are you running automatics? How is it to live with?
 
I have the Comp Cams 260. It is a 200 and c 4 with 350 gear. I like the way it sounds and it runs good for a 200 in a 67 Falcon.
 
8) one thing to remember when dealing with smaller engine like our sixes is that wider lobe centers work better with these engines in the low and mid range power bands. as you narrow up the lobe centers, you raise the power band the cam works best in. thus for what you want i recommend the 110 degree lobe center cam rather than the 112. the 112 would be a better cam to use on the street with an automatic though.
 
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