what carbs should i use for a 3x1 intake.

[Anonymous]

piercemanifolds has them.

 

[Anonymous]

John G wrote
Think mine had 150 or 155 when I got them. Pretty sure I have a 165 in the middle one right now. I also had to change the idle jet up a size or two.
_________________

 

[Anonymous]

redburd,
My son and I built a tripower with the same carb set-up you're asking about. After a bunch of experimentation with jetting them, we settled on 155 jets on the outboards and a 170 in the middle. We didn't run any sensors or etc, just basing it on reading plugs, idle to wide open throttle performance and experience. Based on your cam it may affect it a bit up or down but thats where we settled. Here's a thread my boy posted that shows his setup http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php? ... highlight=
PM him if you want, he could maybe tell you more. He's HighVolkage on here

 

[primal1]

Patrick66, what the total cost wrapped up in this. i'm wanting to do this as well.

 

[Patrick66]

Patrick66, what the total cost wrapped up in this. i'm wanting to do this as well.

just a little less than $70 (not including the carburetors), if i had welded on the cast iron myself it would have only been $20.

im still coming up with ideas for the linkage, i have some time because im breaking it in with the POS 1100 i have.


thanks for the info on the jets redburd. heres the pdf at http://www.piercemanifolds.com

http://www.piercemanifolds.com/calpart.pdf

 

[Patrick66]

not yet, i was going to use cable throttle and make something like the offy linkage (with the 2 rods connected to the middle one). then i thought i could simplify it by using the cable in place of the rods anyway.

its rough, but does this look like it would work:

i think im going to do this, or something like this, but i really need some ideas and opinions about it. im going to go to lowes tommorow and get some cable and some other things to start designing it. the biggest problem im having right now is how to get the stock rod to pull the cable like i want it to. im going to have to modify it i think. so give me your ideas, im hoping to have the 3x1 on there and working in a week or 2 so i can begin tuning it.

 

[Patrick66]

went shopping today at lowes, heres what i bought.

http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/patrickL727/carbs-linkage042.jpg

http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/patrickL727/carbs-linkage044.jpg

http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/patrickL727/carbs-linkage045.jpg
no, im not using those in place of the bell cranks, theyre just for now while im figuring out the design. cost me $6.


again, give me some ideas, criticism and advice. i dont want to start putting everything in the car and then notice that it wont work at all, and that I have wasted a lot of time, so let me know if you see any problems.



i also ordered a bunch of jets, and im getting a wideband O2 sensor to tune it with.

i found this:

http://www.gokartsupply.com/thparts.htm

 

[jahearne]

Cool, nice work. Don't forget VintageSpeed.com for carb linkage and what have ya...

http://www.vintagespeed.com

There's online catalog at the bottom of the home page.

What O2 sensor are you going to use?

 

[Patrick66]

ive been on vintage speed a lot, and im going to use the JAW wideband.

http://www.14point7.com/JAW/JAW.htm

so, i cut my stock throttle rod/bar and ive been trying to figure this out. the only thing that im going to use out of the stuff i bought yesterday, is the cable itself. and maybe not that, because i think i need a different size.

im hoping this will work well pulling the cable (blue), the red is the piece i plan on welding on. im going to drill lots of holes in it so i can adjust the amount of pedal travel. im also looking for adjustable bellcranks so i can get those working right. im having a really hard time finding them, at least ones that i can afford. i have found 3 different types ranging from $28-$44 each.

heres how ive got it:
bellcranks will adjust when(edit: the speed at which) the outers will open in relation to the center carb (how long the arm on the center is vs. how long the arm is on the outers).

this will be the hard one to adjust, and it will determine when the outer carbs open (1/2 throttle, 1/3 etc..). i think i will have the middle arm with a 1.5:1ratio (long arm, attached to cable, will be 1.5* the length of the small arm). with a 1.5:1 ratio on the center and a 1:1 on the outers, the outer carbs will open at about 1/3 throttle. while the stops ultimately control when the outers open, they all have to hit WOT at the same time, the bellcranks are going to control how fast the middle carb opens in relation to the outers. the stops will have to be set to accommodate that.

stops will have to be set depending on what the bell cranks are adjusted to, to make sure they all reach WOT. it will be easy to adjust the stops, just hold all 3 wide open and set the stop snuggly against the slide(swivel pin). dependant on how bellcranks are adjusted. if the stops are too close to the swivel pin, the center carb will not reach WOT, but the outers will. if the stops are too far from the swivel pin, the outers will not reach WOT, but the center will.

holes drilled in the metal on the 'bar' will adjust how much the pedal will have to travel from idle to WOT. also easy to adjust, if the pedal is to the floor but doesnt reach WOT, move the cable to a taller hole, or the opposite if it hits WOT before the pedal hits the floor. not dependant of the other 2, can be set with just the center carb on.

that and i have to make sure there is no binding and its all smooth.
http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb...~S2CV046MX272184110821d~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z50000106a

this will go in the bell crank, and the cable will slide through it:http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb...~S2CV046MX272184110821d~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z50000106a

http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb...~S2CV046MX272184110821d~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z50000106a

sorry this post is so long, stll trying to organize my thoughts and ideas. i hope some of it made sense.

 

[drag-200stang]

Patrick,

I think you're doing a great job, but I don't see the point reinventing the wheel. The cable will bind. You want the solid rods to help bring back the outer carbs, if something sticks its just a little bit safer. There are some very good pictures somewhere here of the offy setup. Just cut the bell cranks out of 1/4" plywood using the pictures as a guide, but make both legs the same length with plenty of adjustment holes. When you have it mechanically working the way you want, just make them out of metal. I made my rods and bell cranks out of 1/8" - it was too flimsy. 1/4" bell cranks and maybe 3/16" rods or whatever is convenient would work better. Bearings at the bell crank pivot would be nice but it will work fine without. Nylon washers on both sides of the bell crank, tighten down just right - will keep the bell crank from cocking. Good luck!

 

[Patrick66]

thanks, i started to think i was making it more complicated than it needed to be, but im not sure i can replicate the rod linkage. i also havent been able to find all of the components for that, or at least i hadnt been able to. i found a lot of websites while looking for stuff for the cable, im sure i can find everything. guess i just got carried away with it.

 

[Anonymous]

If you give me a couple days I can send you measurments and drawings of the Offy linkage I have . The rods and bellcranks should be easy to make . Also the throttle rod that jahearne made should work with the stock throttle bar cut down . Let me know . Al

 

[Patrick66]

thanks al, can you measure the rods with the ball joints (between bell crank and carb arm), and the lengths of the arms on the bell cranks. can you also see what angle the bell crank arms are, they look like 45* or so, but i cant tell from the pictures.

thank you

 

[Anonymous]

Will do . I won't be home until Wednesday . So expect something thursday/friday . Al

 

[JOHN G]

I am in total agreement-stick with the rods. The bellcranks can be of any design you want, but the holes have to be in the right places so that the carbs open at the right time in relation to WOT. I am still working on a cable throttle for mine as the stock firewall rod has presented some issues mainly in getting it to travel far enough to get WOT. Anyone have a throtle bracket theywant to get rid of? Keep the updates coming and get ready for a lot of fun!

 

[Patrick66]

i finished the linkage, so i thought id post some pics. the only thing im missing is the carb arms, does anybody have a part number for the ones theyre using?

thanks for the template redburd

i used 1/4" steel

i drilled and tapped 1/4" holes in my flanges

i drilled the holes on the bell cranks to 5/16 and used bronze bushings with a 1/4" inside diameter.

 

[Anonymous]

finished the linkage, so i thought id post some pics. the only thing im missing is the carb arms, does anybody have a part number for the ones theyre using?

piercemanifolds part # 99005.316
Nice fab job ,keep going kid it looks good ! Al

 

[Patrick66]

thanks Al! that template you sent me really helped.

 

[addo]

Good to see someone else who draws on stuff (the faces).

 

[Patrick66]

i finally have all the pieces i need. piercemanifolds took a while to get them here but its all good. i ordered the ball joints and fuel block from jegs, those arrived today too.

i will fire it up tommorow with just the center carb to run in the cam, i never got it running well enough with the 1100 that i wanted to run in the cam for 30 minutes. hopefully i have enough time to get the hard lines done before work.


http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/patrickL727/wakawaka008.jpg
ball joints $4.49 each. #555-15740
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/15740/10002/-1

im using threaded stock that i already had, and carb arms from pierce manifolds # 99005.316

i tried to get a picture of the whole thing, but my camera isnt working.

this project is taking a while, but most of the time has just been waiting for parts.