What is the latest info on Jacks 200 Crossflow hybrid?

Anlushac11

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I have been off the forums for awhile. I did a search but did'nt see any info.

Last I heard was I thought the engine was together but had not been started yet and the website doesnt look like it has been updated since I bookmarked it.

Is there any news or updated info? Was curious to see what became of it.

Thanks!
 
he started it, last i think i remember he hadn't put the radiator in yet, so it was just a quick little 30 second run

there was a little oil seepage, but other than that it ran nicely
he made up a .wav file too, you could prolly find it
 
It runs, but is not tuned well. The car is nowhere near finished.

It starts easily, revs like a banshee, idles ok, but it's running rich.

I'm building a DIS ignition system and will resume work on the car this weekend.
 
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Did you get a chance to run the motor long enough to see if there was going to be he overheating problem?

IIRC there were clearance problems with the distributor and the intake.

Was there no workaround?, or did you decide to go with the DIS for other reasons?

Also are you using a premade DIS system or something like Megajolt?
 
yup the dis Vs intake was why he was going with the DIS, and IIRC, he was going el cheapo on it to save money
 
I'm building a Megajolt Lite using a Ford EDIS.

The engine seems to have no overheating issues. I've run it up to operating temps and it holds steady at 180. But that's been at no load, so actual drivng might make a difference.

My biggest problem has been lack of time. Not only have I been gone for such a long time, my daughter is getting married next month, I have been writing several articles for several professional journals, and I have four proposals to work on. I'm just a little overwhelmed by other more important stuff, but I'll get back to the car and a long overdue website update soon.
 
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I understand that Megajolt and DIS would be better but would a points type distributor and cap using a Pertronix electronic ignition conversion be short enough to clear?
 
That's what I have in there now. It's too tall. The wires in the cap are up against the #1 intake tube that I fabricated. It will not fit at all with any kind of stock or aftermarket manifold. There's no way at all for a DII to fit.

If I had done the mod to a 250 I think clearance would have been ok.
 
My first thought was to use a cast bolt on pulley and cut the 36-1 ring myself, but then I found a bolt on ring from a 3.8 Thunderbird. I have the pickup, coil pack, and EDIS from an explorer and just need to finish soldering together the MJ.
 
What is the height difference between the US 200 head and the Crossflow head? If the Crossflow head is any shorter, then I may be able to slap a US 250 under it and still have it fit under the stock hood (perhaps even with the stock distibutor.) I know the stock US 250 is a tiny bit too tall for the 64-65 Falcons, and it requires moving the motor mounts down or going to an aftermarket hood.
 
If you go over the notes in Jack's Crossflow Chronicles, the alloy head is about half an inch shallower than the log head.

The US 200 IS 7.808" deep in the block.

All crossflow 200 and 250 OHV Aussie engines have much taller 9.38" decks.

The US 250 is 9.469" tall.

The distributor is getting decapitated by the intake inlet ports.

Jack, there is an easy way. Add a 35 mm spacer, long bolts, and use either the 2-bbl intake manifold or you 6 carb intake. Then extend the boss which holds the stock Duraspark II dissy with an ~ 8" tall adaptor. Then the dissy comes up over the intake manifold, and then you've got it sorted. You then need to use the BMC-style rubber shroud, and place a dimple on that bonnet!

Can't say anymore than that.

Oh, and Jack, you are on the right track. It'll work.
 
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I was browsing the threads of some of the creativity and engineering on here and it got me to thinking.

What if you disassembled the distributor, removed the pin holding the distributor drive gear on, and removed the shaft.

Now you measure and de ide how much and then section out a chunk of the shaft and weld it back together.

You would then have to section the Distributor housing the same amount and weld the top and bottom back together.

This is beyond my current skills but Im betting some on here could knock that out in a afternoon.The only thing that would take time is to make sure the distributor shaft was straight before rewelding or brazing it.
 
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OK just tossing out another crazy idea.

Inspection of the photos I can find looks like the intake bolts are on teh top and bottom of the port.

Would it make it easier to remove the intake by installing studs on the bottom and slotting the bottom intake bolt holes and using bolts on the top?

This would allow you to slide the intake gasket on and then literally drop the intake down vertically onto the studs and bolting it tight using the top bolts and using nuts with a washer or a nut with a integral washer to tighten bottom. A threaded cap with a allen head socket would work best since you could use a long allen head T-bar or a small extension with a allen head socket to tighten bottom.

Seems this would allow you to loosen the bottom intake bolts and then remove top bolts and lift intake straight up, making it easier for removal.

I do agree that DIS would be better but this might be easier for now?
 
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