What oil should I use to start new engine?

[Anlushac11]

Depends...stuff like GM's EOS with its additives is intended only to be used for break in and then dumped with first oil change.

Some of the other oils are intended for use as regular use motor oils in older cars.

Course we can still hope Mike's roller cam project gets off the ground

 

[wallaka]

From what I've gathered here, I plan to start with the Quaker State 10W-40 and a additive for the initial priming and starting of the engine. I'll prime with a drill. After assembly is complete, I'll run engine for about 20 mins at 2000 rpm. Then I will drain oil and change filter.

I will then fill engine again with Quaker State 10W-40, only this time I don't believe I need the additive (zinc type). I'll put 500-1000 miles on the car, then change oil and filter.

Final oil will be Mobil 1 Synthetic.

I would still go with an oil with more ZDDP than Quaker state. Just on general principle. Like Quaker State (if you like the brand) high mileage formulation. Even if it does have snake oil Slick 50 in it. Or Castrol's high mileage. Or Shell Rotella. Or Delo. All have ZDDP levels suitable for flat-tappet engines.

Mobil 1 Synthetic ought to be OK for normal use. Probably.

 

[JackFish]

Or Castrol's high mileage.

Actually the new HM stuff does not have much more than around 800ppm now, IIRC. Very few oils do.

 

[Vin Man]

From what I've gathered here, I plan to start with the Quaker State 10W-40 and a additive for the initial priming and starting of the engine. I'll prime with a drill. After assembly is complete, I'll run engine for about 20 mins at 2000 rpm. Then I will drain oil and change filter.

I will then fill engine again with Quaker State 10W-40, only this time I don't believe I need the additive (zinc type). I'll put 500-1000 miles on the car, then change oil and filter.

Final oil will be Mobil 1 Synthetic.

I would still go with an oil with more ZDDP than Quaker state. Just on general principle. Like Quaker State (if you like the brand) high mileage formulation. Even if it does have snake oil Slick 50 in it. Or Castrol's high mileage. Or Shell Rotella. Or Delo. All have ZDDP levels suitable for flat-tappet engines.

Mobil 1 Synthetic ought to be OK for normal use. Probably.

I was only going with Quaker State because that was the cheapest brand name oil at Walmart. I think I can return it and get something better.

 

[Anlushac11]

After break in you would be best to switch to a synthetic or a oil with 1200ppm or better zinc and phosphate.

1000-1200ppm is the minimum recommended for flat tappet cams. Seems most of the racing oils have increased zinc and phosphate levels. If you can find a cheap racing oil that is.

Your going to have to search the internet and do some comparative shopping.

You might be able to use the Quaker State and just find a cheap Zinc Phosphate additive.

 

[rbohm]

I guess I see both sides of the arguement and don't go so far as to say ZDDP is snake oil. The old oils used to breakdown and lose their viscosity when sheared. Nowadays the oil is more stable and retains its lubricity more. It is largely reported that the amount of anti-wear additives have been reduced to reduce catalytic converter fouling. Maybe the improved lubrication has of the modern oils has offset the need for as much anti wear additives. Part of me thinks that if we are relying on the anti-wear additives rather than a proper lubricant film, then the oil may not be doing its job. But if the cam manufactures recommend certain levels of additives, we are forced to seek out an approved oil or take on more risk of proper cam break in.
Doug

8) oil itself does not break down and lose its lubricity, even in the old days. it is the additive package that breaks down and causes problems. these additives have gotten better over the years thus allowing longer oil change intervals. as for relying on additives rather than a proper lubricant film, even in the old days the additives were needed to provide that proper film strength. remember that a flat tappet cam requires a very high film strength or you will get metal to metal contact and that will destroy a cam in short order.

 

[rbohm]

From what I've gathered here, I plan to start with the Quaker State 10W-40 and a additive for the initial priming and starting of the engine. I'll prime with a drill. After assembly is complete, I'll run engine for about 20 mins at 2000 rpm. Then I will drain oil and change filter.

I will then fill engine again with Quaker State 10W-40, only this time I don't believe I need the additive (zinc type). I'll put 500-1000 miles on the car, then change oil and filter.

Final oil will be Mobil 1 Synthetic.

the oil you chose will do fine for break in. as for not using the additive after you have broken in the cam, stop. you want to use it for some time, unless you get an oil that has 1200ppm of zddp in the oil. you can use an oil like shell rotella T diesel rated oil and it has about 1100ppm zddp in the oil. or you can use an oil for race engines in the weight you choose, 10w40 works real nice. or you can use the quaker state oil you like and add the zddp package at every oil change.

 

[Vin Man]

From what I've gathered here, I plan to start with the Quaker State 10W-40 and a additive for the initial priming and starting of the engine. I'll prime with a drill. After assembly is complete, I'll run engine for about 20 mins at 2000 rpm. Then I will drain oil and change filter.

I will then fill engine again with Quaker State 10W-40, only this time I don't believe I need the additive (zinc type). I'll put 500-1000 miles on the car, then change oil and filter.

Final oil will be Mobil 1 Synthetic.

the oil you chose will do fine for break in. as for not using the additive after you have broken in the cam, stop. you want to use it for some time, unless you get an oil that has 1200ppm of zddp in the oil. you can use an oil like shell rotella T diesel rated oil and it has about 1100ppm zddp in the oil. or you can use an oil for race engines in the weight you choose, 10w40 works real nice. or you can use the quaker state oil you like and add the zddp package at every oil change.

OK. I'll use an additive with the Quaker State (or other oil) until I switch to Mobil 1.

 

[Vin Man]

I just picked up the oil additive from the local performance shop (Lopers). $12 for ~12 oz.

I'm thinking it would have been cheaper to just use the Mobil 1 to start since I can get a 5 quart container at wal-mart for about $24.

But at least I know I'll have the right lubricants with the additive.

 

[Anlushac11]

I just picked up the oil additive from the local performance shop (Lopers). $12 for ~12 oz.

I'm thinking it would have been cheaper to just use the Mobil 1 to start since I can get a 5 quart container at wal-mart for about $24.

But at least I know I'll have the right lubricants with the additive.

You cant use Mobil One for break in. You need to have some friction to wear in the aprts properly but you also need to have enough protection to prevent galling and scuffing.

Once the engine is broken in (750-1000mi) then you can switch to synthetic

 

[Lazy JW]

....

You cant use Mobil One for break in....

Lots of new cars come with synthetic oil from the factory; my understanding is that new Corvettes use none other than Mobil One. So much for that old wives tale
Joe

 

[Anlushac11]

....

You cant use Mobil One for break in....

Lots of new cars come with synthetic oil from the factory; my understanding is that new Corvettes use none other than Mobil One. So much for that old wives tale
Joe

Do the new Corvette LS3 engines use a flat tappet cam or a roller cam?