What oil weight?

[Anonymous]

Just read the post on "Lifter Problems" and made me wonder......What weight/viscosity oil do you guys recommend on a 200ci with 100K+ miles on it? This engine I just put in runs real sweet and I want it to last a while. I just filled it up with Valvoline 10W-40 when I put it in.

 

[pedal2themetal45]

that should be ok... if it seams a little noise when warmed up maybe go with 20/40.. as long as it isn't using oil... Or you cold also go with single grade oil such as 20w winter and 30w summer.
Tim

 

[Anonymous]

That's always confused me.......

10W vs 20W

30, 40, 50?

Is it the higher the number, the thicker the oil? Or vice versa? And what's "single grade"? is 20W "double grade"?

 

[FLSHBCK]

The rating of a single grade oil (i.e. SAE 30) indicates a scale of the viscosity of that oil at 100 degrees C (212 F.) The higher the number, the higher the viscosity. higher number = "thicker"

If there is a 'W,' (i.e. 20W), that means it tests to that viscosity at a winter temperature as well as 100 degrees C. The colder oil gets, the higher it's viscosity is. Simply grading the oil at 20W does not make it multi-grade.

Multi-grade oils have additives to improve the viscosity index. A 10W-30, for example, will pump at cold temperature as well as a single grade 10 weight, and in addition exhibits the viscosity of a 30 weight oil at 100 degrees C. These multi-grade oils still change fairly significantly over temperature, but to a lesser degree than the single grades.

 

[Anonymous]

I used to run 10W40 but switched this past summer to the Valvoline 20W50 racing oil because of all the talk about the additives being removed from regular oil.

Later,

Doug

 

[wsa111]

If you use racing oil it contains the zinc additives that is necessary with engines with flat tappets.

I use shell rotella 15-40 which is a diesel oil & contains all the necessary additives for anti-scuff protection.

If you see SM on your oil container it does not have the anti-scuff additives necessary for flat lifter camshafts & distributor gear protection.

Anyone with a valve spring pressure over 80# on the seat needs to take heed.

All the newer engines have roller lifters & catalitic converters which the zinc additive is not necessary & it does harm to the converters.

Don't you love the EPA. William

 

[Anonymous]

So the best choice for me would be..........?

The engines in pretty good shape but unknown mileage. I figure over 150K. Looks like it's been well maintained and sounds and runs smooth. Minimal sludge in the oil pan and valve cover. Tips of the valves show a little wear but still some meat above the spring retainers. Rockers also a little worn but still pretty smooth. No grinding, ticking or knocking in the upper or lower regions that I can hear. Everything appears OK in the lower end with no more wear than expected. It's my daughter's daily driver to school and work, no more than 5 miles in any direction, with occasional excursions (once a week or so) no more than 40 miles one way. No cat or a/c so the load is minimal. If she's maintained properly, we should get enough time out of her for me to rebuild the old engine the way I'd like........just in time for me to take possession of her for MY personal joyride! YEE HAW!

 

[Anonymous]

I like 15w 40 Rotela. Up there in Jasper I would use a 10w40 in the winter and 15w 40 or 50 in the summer. I have also gone to the diesel duty oil for the zinc content. Racing oils generally are a little low in the additives suited for light duty use. (esp detergents).

 

[Anonymous]

I'm sticking with 20-50W. My next oil change will probably not include the STP. Tonight the car ran great. Every since I changed oil, the lifter noise is gone and the lifters seem to work fine.
Ken

 

[Johnny Ray]

So the best choice for me would be..........?

Straight 30 weight.

8)

 

[Lazy JW]

In Georgia I would use Chevron Delo 400 15W-40 HDEO. Any Vintage Ford six that is worn so badly as to REQUIRE 20W-50 is really in need of some repairs. Rotella T 5W-40 is an excellent synthetic HDEO if you have an engine in decent condition.
Joe

 

[Anonymous]

"Any Vintage Ford six that is worn so badly as to REQUIRE 20W-50 is really in need of some repairs."

Joe,
I don't know that my "vintage ford 6 requires 20w50", but it sure helps to keep my my "treasured vintage ford 6 running smoothly"!
If I wasn't already building another engine for another car, the 6 would be apart and rebuilt.
Time, money and priorities are the 3 things holding me back!
Thanks,
Ken

 

[Lazy JW]

...Time, money and priorities are the 3 things holding me back! ...

I hear that!

A straight 30 wt would work ok in your climate but with all of the excellent multi-grades available I truly hate to give up the superior pumpability on cold startup. I am currently running 5W-30 synthetic in my 81 300 and it starts noticeably better than 10W-30 on these cold Idaho mornings. There is no oil that is thin enough at startup, but some are better than others. My White Ox really didn't like 20W-50, it had a definite power loss. Am running 5W-40 Rotella synthetic and it is much happier now.
Joe