What should I do?

[schaferstephen]

Hey all, first post here - I feel so special!!

I have a '65 Mustang, manual steering, manual brakes, 200L6. I just finished rebuilding the suspension and brakes and will be taking it to get aligned thursday or Friday. Sooo... I'm turning to the engine now...

I'd like to put on headers but unfortunately, I have an AC (sits above alternator). I believe that makes headers impossible without moving the AC over, which will also require moving the battery mount... right?

The car will just be used for some spirited street driving and will never see a track. That being said... the stock 6 doesn't have a whole lot of pickup and while I don't need a fullblown drag car, I'd like to get a little more power out of it. I have a pertronix I ordered. Eventually, (assuming I can get headers and a more free-flowing exhaust) I'm thinking about having the block zero decked, MAYBE bored 30 over... MAYBE. Probably a Weber 300cfm 2V, or the Holley 350... 350 is probably overkill though. Maybe something like a 264 cam? as far as cooling, either a 2 row Champion alum radiator, or a 3 row brass...?? I have an automatic tranny, eventually I'd like to drop in a T5..

Soo.. that's my thoughts. What do yall think?

Thanks for taking the time to comment!!

 

[xctasy]

The AC can work with headers. There are two types of Mustang AC...the early York style which has a drivers side position as per the V8 Mustangs, or the more common SelectAire unit which is high mounted on the passenger side.

Your options are to attempt to space out the more common stock AC unit 1.25" out wards by adding two flitch plates or cleates the same thickness as the stock bracket, and have them final spot, plug or fillet welded after mig welding into position. This has been done before by Jimbo65 in his 200 ci 2V GT Mustang replica, and others have followed his lead. The set-up just requires a longer belt or belts to suit.

In Australia, in 1984, Ford used a Mazda/ToyoKogyo proprietry Ogura a/c unit for there cross flow sixes. It was positioned low down at the US passenger side. It is very similar to the later 5.0 set up, and headers don't foul this type. It has a compact fan clutch, and can be used with its brackets. Source is any XE/XF Ford Falcon 3.3 or 4.1 from 1984 to 1992. They are hidden for all practical purposes,and are an excellent score. Earlier versions from 1976 to1984 were SelectAire as per the V8's. Using the earlier system eliminates the hassle of headers, as it was left hand mounted like all the early Windsor and Cleveland and Big Block V8's.

As for carbs and transmission, I'd look for direct mount 2-bbl #4412 Holley 500 cfm with restrictors for the power valve channels (down from 62.5 thou to 25 thou), and a two stage RV power valve with 68 jets should be a good start. Go for the later post 1977 head with head planned about 60 thou for a 52 cc chamber, and mate it to a Clay Smith 274 cam ground on a 109 lobe centre. Take a stock early C4 and have the converter custom reworked for as much stall you can get. You can retro fit later stuff onto the earlier bell housing, and pick up the later splined drive shaft. If the combo is given a Trangoshift kit, and uses later parts, it will last a long time.

A double row timing chain and a better Duraspark electronic ignition system with no more than 34 degrees total advance at 3000 rpm, with static timing at 9 degrees should help things along. A fully reworked cylinder block with Tempo flatops and a some resized forged con rods and a good oil pump should help. Hydraulic lifters and stock 1.5:1 rocker gear should suffice.

With the right work to the exhast system and good valve springs and retainers, a little 200 doesn't have to have a T5 to mingle with modern traffic, and a 3.20 or 3.25 diff would be real happy everywhere

 

[CobraSix]

Welcome!

I can't add any useful insight about the AC issue. I just put the top down and drive faster on hot days.

As far as performance goes, you seem to have the right ideas. First you need to think about the budget. If you have more to spend, consider either the OZ250 2V head (which is what I have) which is a direction bolt on or Classic Inline's (www.classicinlines.com) Aluminum head (which came out after I bought my OZ head). The flow numbers on the latter are just amazing and make me cry. Both will help out tremendously.

Short of that. Putting a 260 to 264 cam will really wake up the engine as well. That extra lift goes a long way for these engines.

And I can't say enough good things about the T5 conversion. By far, my favorite modification, even compared to the OZ head.