What year 200 for longblock?

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Hello,
I have a 68 bronco with what I have been thinking was a 200. The side of the block has C8DE cast into it. I am about to order a reman longblock and wonder what year has the best head etc. Also is there a possibility this could be a 170? did the 170 have hydraulic lifters?.

Thanks,
-Mike
 
Howdy Mike:

Q- Also is there a possibility this could be a 170?

A- Yes, This casting was used for both 170s and 200s.


Q- did the 170 have hydraulic lifters?.

A- Yes.

On the head, anything after a D7BE casting will have the big valves, hard seats, a big carb hole and greater intake tract volume. It will also have a larger chamber of aprox 62 ccs. The head can be safely milled up to .090" to meet your CR goal.

Adios, David
 
Mike, count the freeze plugs on the side of the engine. If it has 5 it's definately a 200 not a 170. If there's only 3 freeze plugs it's probably a 170. You might have a bit of trouble seeing the back 2 plugs, so look closely.

As far as the 'BEST' engine year, you aren't going to find the 'BEST' setup in a standard longblock. To do that will require you to have it custom assembled. The early heads had a 52cc combustion chamber giving the engine a 9.5:1 compression ratio, but they had rather small and restrictive valves and intake runners. The later 'Big Log' heads (77 and later) had larger valves, a larger carb flange opening, and bigger intake runners. But they also suffered from a large 62cc combustion chamber which gave them a lower compression ratio. To get the best of both worlds, you can take a 77 or later head and have it milled down to get back to a 9.5:1 CR.

It really depends on how much effort/money you want to put into the project. There's a fairly wide range of performance upgrades that can be done to the 200's. If you plan on going this route, doing the longblock right is the best way. That way you will be set for later "Bolt On" mods like carb, exhaust and ignition systems.

The way many people here have done it is by aquiring a good rebuilable core, and having a local engine rebuilder build it up to your specs. For example, here's what I'm doing longblock-wise. I picked up a good 200 core out of a 1979 Fairmont. Ported and pollished the head and had it milled down to 52cc, and had new valves and springs installed. I took the shortblock to a local rebuilder to be remanufactured. Along with the standard remanufacturing work, I had the block decked to zero and had them install a 264 112* performance cam that I provided, along with a billet duel roller timing set and ARP main/rod bolts.

While I did spend more than I would have had I simply bought a reman'd longblock, it was only a couple hundred more, and I have a longblock that will be set for most any performance upgrades I may want to do.
 
WhitePony":qlzo18n2 said:
Mike, count the freeze plugs on the side of the engine. If it has 5 it's definately a 200 not a 170.

The 1970 Maverick 170 had 5 frost plugs.
 
The 1970 Maverick 170 was an oddball. Last year for the 170, right??
 
Thanks for the quick replies. I will start at the freeze plugs to try for a ID on the existing engine. This has been a good runer but the valve stem seals have gotten hard an diintegrated. I definitely am looking at headers and the a good carb...need low end worse than high speed
 
underneath the C8de there is 6015-A And there are only three freeze plugs...170. As I understand, the 200 should direct replace the 170. Are there any clutch issues to consider?
 
If I had to pick, I would get a pre-73 block just to try and ensure I got forged rods. Otherwise, the only other thing to watch would be to get a block that has all the mounting bosses you need for your accessories.
 
CZLN6...

I am going to ask the remanufacturer about possible performance mods,
Can you reccomend a cam profile for a off road vehicle application? I dont anticipate huge intake changes, but will want headers which I would do on my own. I am going to also ask about the timing set.

-Mike
 
Howdy Back All:

Linc- the 170 was last produced in 1972 as a base engine in some models Of FoMoCo vehicles.

That '70 Maverick with a 170 and 5 frost plugs is a very rare piece, indeed. I'd pay money to see it. With FoMoCo and 35 year old engines I never say "Never".

Mike- for your application you may want to stick with a straight up stock cam with 1.6:1 rockers. The hi-lift rockers will increase lift by about .030".

For your goal, slightly more than stock durations of 256 - 264 with a lift of about .400". The difference between a stock, OEM type cam and an aftermarket will be a fatter profile. Stock log type heads seldom show any increase in flow past about .400" lift.

Comp, Crane, Isky, Clifford and Schneider all show cams in this range. I'm sure Mike at FSPP could get what you want too. He may be your best source for a double roller timing set too. All of these cams will have a fatter profile at .050" valve lift then a stocker.

What is your compression ratio goal?

Adios, David
 
Mike, as far as the dual roller timing set goes, you basically have two options. Clifford and FSPP (Ford Six Performance Parts). Actually, I would lay even money that they are both the same timing set that's imported from Australia. The Aussies have a few more performance parts that work with our sixes than were built here.
 
AFAIK, all the Oz made timing sets are 9 keyway, with round milled holes in the billeted cam gear.

Always, always degree the cam. I wouldn't trust a generic rebuilder to do it.
 
addo":2jxgyxp4 said:
AFAIK, all the Oz made timing sets are 9 keyway, with round milled holes in the billeted cam gear.

Always, always degree the cam. I wouldn't trust a generic rebuilder to do it.

Yep, I was AMAZED at how far retarded the timing was with the keyways set to zero. It was like 8 degrees retarded when I started. Ended with it 2 degrees advanced.
 
Good point WhitePony.

How tough is degreeing a cam? could a average guy do this?
 
It's not hard really. You need a degree wheel and a magnetic dial indicator tool, plus a single solid lifter and a cup style pushrod. And you need to know the profile numbers of you cam. The procedure is not really all that difficult, just a bit time consuming. There is some adjusting to get the dial indicator and degree wheel set correctly at TDC, then it's just math to check to check the cam degreeing.

With mine I had to try several different key settings, and actually had to move the entire cam gear one tooth to get the degreeing that I wanted.

Kris
 
My rebuilder will mill the head if necessary but offered some pistons that would bump the comp ratio to 9.2:1. Also said I would need to degree the cam. Can also install a mild "rv" cam in a 260 grind. would the pistons vs the milled head be equal? Also does anyone know if the long collector headers at FSPP will work in an early bronco? tones of room under the hood.
 
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