Torque Plate

66200i6

66200i6

Famous Member
Greetings Inliners, I am in the process of finding a machine shop that has a torque plate for our inline 200 blocks. I live in the Puget Sound area of Washington State and have so far struck out. I continue to get the response that it is just an inline six and that it is not needed for boring. I am wondering what the opinion of the board is on the importance of the torque plate as defined in the Falcon Handbook.

Thanks in advance, Ric.
 
Howdy Back Ric:

We're having to rethink the torque plate reccommend. Ideally, the advice is right on. Realistically, finding a torque plate for a small Ford six is next to impossible. Having one made is relatively pricy. We're looking at having one made by cutting apart a junk head- still an expensive proposition.

The advantage of using a torque plate to bore and hone is truer cylinder circles for better ring seal and piston fit. When the head is torqued into place it distorts the cylinders slightly, into a 4 leaf clover shape, bulging in adjacent to the 4 head bolts and bowing out between. The distortion is ever so slight, but enough to make a difference in max power and longivity. The distortion effect is greater as overboring increases, lessening the structural integrity of the thin wall cast block design, and as head bolt torque goes up, above stock values.

For the typical street crusier, you will likely never know the difference over a quality bore and hone job. It is free and easy to bolt the main caps in place during the bore and hone process, for the same reasons as above.

Adios, David
 
Hey 662,

I am in the process of rebuilding my 200. The only place I found that has a torque plate for the small sixes is Clifford Performance. They said the price was $75 plus shipping. Obviously the charge you the shipping when the send it out, and then you pay shipping when it is shipped back. I think they let/want you to have it for about 2 weeks. Give them a call to verify/find out the details. They were pretty helpful when I called.

Tanx,
Mugsy
 
Seriously, this is 3rd week CAD stuff. Basic.

Why can't someone run up a 3D in generic CAD, maybe another generous soul host it for downloads, and they can be cut anywhere one has access to a modern engineering shop?

Also (just an idle thought) if it's easier to profile cut ¾" steel, why not laminate one up and rivet or bolt it all together?

Regards, Adam.
 
Adam that is something I should have thought of myself. I have a neighbor that as offered before to fab parts for me (in fact he will be building my intake for the modified log). If I could now find out what the proper design is for a torque plate I can make the drawing and have it made.

Does anyone out there know what the specs are for this plate?

Thanks in advance, Ric.
 
As a rough guide (Thad would be an expert), about 120 thou over on the bores, around 2" thick, similar size (to head) through holes for the bolts, no openings for pushrods or coolant. Basically 6 big holes, 14 small ones, parallel ground/milled top and bottom. The head bolts are in collinear, equi-spaced pairs; that's why it's so basic.

Laminating then surfacing would appear the easiest. It costs me about $35/plate to get ¾" steel flame cut, so I guess a US price would be $25 or so. Three of these, high-temp epoxy and countersunk fasteners... You're almost done.

If the block has been apart a while, I might be inclined to torque to 60 or so, leave a few days then bring up to 75. Also a light pass, if not final block decking beforehand.

Adam.

Adam.
 
Here's a pic of what it should look like.....
honeplate.jpg


courtesy of the Slant Six guys.....
http://www.slantsix.org/articles/dutra-blocks/slant-blocks.htm

Alex
 
Well it’s official. The Boring plate will be run this morning at 9:00 AM PST. I will finally be able to get this 200 rebuilt the way I would like.

Pictures to follow, Ric.
 
I am very interested in renting a torque plate!!!

Drag 200 stang made one for himself out of 1.75" thick plate. I think that is rough row to hoe if I have to make one myself. I would like to rent one from him or clifford, but may check into the cost of making one that can be rented out to others.

I'll have to check my recent thread posts, it may be in my turbo 200 thread on the last page.
 
About 6 years ago you could get a casting thru Peterson for 80.00. Ruff bores no bolt holes, and blanchard ground on both sides. They were cast iron. If anyone knows a Peterson rep they are prob still avail. I would be happy to machine one for a worthy cause.
 
63stl_comet":2yjybktj said:
And prices start at only $250!
Click to expand...

I could make one cheaper than that. If I can't find one to rent in the next 30 days I'll have one made.
 
addo":1xervuyj said:
Seriously, this is 3rd week CAD stuff. Basic.

Why can't someone run up a 3D in generic CAD, maybe another generous soul host it for downloads, and they can be cut anywhere one has access to a modern engineering shop?

Also (just an idle thought) if it's easier to profile cut ¾" steel, why not laminate one up and rivet or bolt it all together?

Regards, Adam.
Click to expand...

forget CAD
gimme a head gasket, some metal and a shop
well, and some time off from work...
 
asa67_stang":3qnq7cfk said:
forget CAD
gimme a head gasket, some metal and a shop

well, and some time off from work...
Click to expand...

That's what I'm talking about!!
The time factor is the worst for me...
 
I think the torque plate is benificial especially on a small block or big block engine & inline engine that is being used for competive racing.

For the average guy just doing street driving why waste your time & money. If both of these are not your cup of tea spend the time & money using a torque plate for the ultimate ring seal.

There is a point in time where you have an over kill on detail in building an engine. Its your money you only get what you pay for. William
 
If you don't think a torque plate is beneficial, after you have a block bored and honed take your old headgasket and bolt the head on and have your machinest check the cylinders for roundness. On an engine with the headbolts straight across from each other there will be around .005 to .006 distortion, more with aftermarket studs. If you want performance, gas milage, or longevity, you will benefit from the use of torque plates.

I don't feel it would justify the cost for one engine, but if it is available for a reasonable price then it's the only way to go in my book.
 
Well I have the pics of the new plate on the block. I will post them as soon as I find the time to upload to my web space.

I remember from my initial questions into the value of using a boring/torque plate on these blocks a quote from one of our members. All of the rebuilds that they do use this tool during the boring process. Because of the design of this block the forward end at cylinder one gets the worst of it. After studying the block I can see why. There is very little material around the number one cylinder. Part of the strength for the forward end must come from after assembly. I would be interested in knowing how soon some of your new rebuilds maintain a good pressure in the number one cylinder.

We plan on using the plate as well as torqueing the thermostat housing and timing chain cover in place during the boring process.

I am hoping for a day off the end of next week to deliver these parts.

This has been a very long wait. I hope it will be worth it.

Ric.
 
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