Weeping Headgasket....

My motor has approximately 7000 miles on it since the last rebuild. At that time the head and block were both decked. The engine has always had a weeping headgasket which seems to happen only on long trips. I had the machinest deck both this last time to hopefully eliminate the weeping coolant but it did not seem to help. I currently have the head off due to a couple collapsed lifters. What can I do to eliminate the weeping? I am going to use a Felpro gasket with ARP bolts when putting it back together. Any help would be appreciated.

I had the same problem.... go back and re-torque everything. If you have alredy tried that....let me know what you figure out. It only weeps a tiny bit. Actually, I never see the fluid, I just see the evaporation line on the block.

Jason

Once you do the primary three stages of torque initially (55-65-75 ftlbs) let it set for 24 hours, then retorque it at 75 ftlbs again. It is also a good idea once everything is buttoned up and it runs, let it warm up to allow heat expansion and then torque the head down for the final time. You can also adjust your rockers at the same time (that is if they are adjustable). Always better on a warm engine. Good luck.

Kirk

Howdy back:

It is not uncommon for head bolts to bottom out in there holes due to crud and oil in the bottom, or milling and machinning. The solution is to use a bottom tap to thoroughly clean the holes before assembly and to use washer on the head bolts. The washers do two things; they lessen the depth of the bolt in the hole and they spread the torque more evenly over the head surface.

Kirks advice on the torque sequence should be standard procedure.

Let us know what works for you.

Adios, David

Thanks for the tips guys, I will chase the threads(again) an retorque as suggested. I did not retorque the head on this last rebuild but I did on the first rebuild and it did not seem to help. However the block was not decked the first time.

Jason, you are correct, it just leaves the lines on the block.

David, I am using washers with the ARP bolts.

Has anyone attempted to use sealant around the water ports?

Unless you are using monotorque style gaskets you should always let the engine cool after the initial run and retension the bolts. Don't tighten while the engine is hot.

Wicking should be eliminated by the surface beading on the gasket. You should make sure the gasket you buy has this beading.

As mentioned you need to make sure the block holes have been cleaned and dried (use cotton buds) to stop hydraulic lock.

Don't use sealant. If you do several retensionings may be required. Even with Hylomar you'll need get the torque wrench out.

I layed a thin coating of silicone sealer around all of the coolant passages on the headgasket(both sides) & also around the pushrod openings on the left side of the block. So far, no leaks.

The leak you have is from the water transfer passages for cylinders 3 & 4 (and in extreme cases 2 & 5) just underneath the spark plugs across to the pushrod holes, this is based on 20 years of using these motors to drive 750 GPM pumps on a water truck. To prove this try grounding the two center spark plug wires and then going for a drive at high speed, no heat, no leak. The cure I have developed is to cut a seven eights inch hole in the gasket, and use a 7/8 x 3/4 id high temp o-ring. Save the cut out pieces, trim them to 3/4 inch od, place inside the o ring, lightly silicone in place, and install the cylinder head. Problem cured. Under the heat of hard work, these heads warp up from side to side in the center enough to lift the part of the cylinder head under the spark plugs where the water transfer passages are enough to let them leak to the outside and sideways to the pushrod holes. Using o rings instead of just silicone gives it enough flexibility to hold the seal under any circumstances. Felpro head gaskets use a rubber print o seal, but it does not have enough flexibility under load to make up for the flexing, an o ring does. flatford6@yahoo.com

THAT sounds like a great fix!
Thanks for sharing!!

This topic covers the problem of water weeping out of the spark plug side of the motor and in more extreme cases into the oil. This cure is the result of many problems with these motors which are used as water pump drivers on construction water trucks.

Hey flatford6,

Maybe the next time you do this modification, take some photos and post them. This maybe could be made into a Sticky.

Thanks,
Lowell