Could use some tune up help.

N

Nathan289

Well-known member
Hi Guys,

I bought a new to us 1962 ranchero. it has some really cool body work.
Ie frenched tail lights and other mods. Really cleanly done too.

It has a 170 i6 that runs, although not very well. I've tuned it up with plugs and the other normal tune up stuff. replaced the fuel pump, rebuilt the carb with no luck.

The carb still runs rich. I've leaned it out as far as the idle screw will allow me to. when pulling a vacuum cap it doesnt idle up like it's running rich.
I've opened the carb up after rebuilding it and adjusted the float thinking that was a problem. Nope..
The carb is a Holley 1904 that probably needs to be replaced as it seems well worn.

The other porblem i'm having is that a previous owner swapped cyclinder heads from a 1966 I6 and swapped rocker shafts with it.
Now from what I read in the "bible" or the falcon handbook that you must have the adjustable rockers with a solid lifter cam.
I'm not likeing the fact that this six sounds like a baby powerstroke.

Here are my questions.. what carb recomendations would you guys make?
remember early 170 I cant upgrade dizzys (although I'd like to) which limits carb choices I think..
Where can i get a rocker arm shaft that will work on my 170?

Thanks alot guys and sorry for the long post.

Nathan
 
I have a question, why can't a 170 upgrade the dizzy? If you are thinking of upgrading the carb, why not upgrade the dizzy also?

As far a s a rocker arm shaft and adjustable rockers, check flie-bay, or ask someone here, they might have one.
 
The 144/170 and early 200 had a smaller hole for the dizzy. It can be opened up or the new dizzy can be sanded down a little to fit, though.
 
You think you have a solid lifter cam, solid lifters, & non adjustable shaft rockers? With solid lifters you need some method of adjustment and with a shaft rocker system shims dont work. Adjustable pushrods exist, I have never seen them except in catalogs.

I dont know your carb but did you have a good picture of how things were supposed to go? I have rebuilt carbs myself and put things back the way I found them only to find out the last guy did it wrong. Since most of the rebuild kits come with extra parts for other applications knowing which are the right parts is important. Normally I have seen lean problems with worn carbs because of worn throttle shafts. Does yours have screw in jets? If so what number or letter was it? If you post the number on the jet someone should be able to tell you what the hole size is supposed to be, maybe someone drilled it out? Did you replace both the needle and seat? Some kits come with multiple options and the have to go in sets. On my 1100 I had to grind down the length of one of the needles to get the correct height. The other one in the kit was the right height but wouldnt seat in the seat the fit my carb. Did you replace the float? If it was a metal one you should be able to shake it and tell if there is fuel in it, if its that black plastic stuff its hard to tell if it has soaked up fuel. If its the black kind and you didnt replace it I would get a new one, the older black ones have issues with the alcohols found in most fuels today. Any kit made in the last 10 or so years should be fine.
 
Do they make a pertronix module for this dizzy? I guess your real question has something to do with the fact that this dizzy requires some special porting on the carb, right?
 
Howdy Back Nathan and All:

Yes, you need adjustible rocker arms with this block. Mike, our host, ClassicInlines used to have stock adjustible rockers.

Rocker Arm Specialist in Anderson, CA also has them. Website is <www.rockerarms.com>. Phone is 1-800-747-2767.

Adjusting the lash on the rockers will lessen the racket. Check to make sure that oil is getting to the front of the shaft. If the shaft, or rockers are plugged, that will add to the noise.

Personally, I like the little Holley 1904s. There is no reason why it shouldn't run right. From your description i'd guess you have an internal leak somewhere. I'd start over and rebuild it again. Details, Details, DETAILS!!!!

You could step up to an Autolite 1100 from a '65 or '66 200. It will give you a slight performance increase by upping the CFM from 150 on the 1904 to 185 with the 1100. It has a SCV and will be compatible with your Load-O-Matic distributor vacuum advance.

FYI- and you probably know that you're likely down on compression with this engine. Most likely who ever swapped heads had to use a composite head gasket, which is about .025" thicker then the stock OEM steel shim gasket.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Adios, David
 
The dizzy does have the smaller shaft and I'll look into modifing a duraspark unit and see how that works..

I had an exploded diagram of the carb and i have rebuilt a few of these before, with much better success than I did have with this one.

I have a 3 frost plug/ four main 170 which came equipped with solid lifters. From what i understand is you cant use hydraulic lifters because there is no oiling passage..

The head doesnt have the adjustable rocker arm shaft on it and it has the incorrect push rods too.

My main problem right now is the lack of valve adjustment. I need to get that fixed before I do anything else..

Nathan
 
David,

Thank you again. Just the guy I was hoping to hear from..
Thank you for the link to rocker arm supply.. I forgot that Mike also carried rocker arms.. if he has one available..

Looks like I'll need push rods too..

I like the Holley carb too this one has seen better days though.. its been gone through a couple of times. and someone stripped out two of the fuel bowl screws. I tried tapping them and cleaning up the threads but it doesnt get enough of a bite to seal the bowl properly..
I'm thinking of finding a replacement carb, but first issue is the rocker arm shafts..

the Carb jet was a 64 if that means anything.. I dont know what was supposed to be in there..

I figure the compression is down for that reason you mentioned David and the fact that didn't a 66 200ci have larger cc cumbustion chambers?

I might be pulling the head to replace the valve springs maybe I'll have it milled while I'm at it.

Thanks again,

Nathan
 
Howdy Back Nathan:

YOur '62 170 most likely had a C1 head casting.It may have as little as 48 cc chambers. It's stock valves are 1.52" intake and 1.26 exhaust. The '66 head will have 1.64" intakes and 1.38" exhaust. If it is stock OEM the chamber volumes will be close to 52 ccs. Intake tract volume increase is significant. Up from 890 ccs to 1100.

IF you do pull the head to mill, invest in a three angle valve job and have the intake valves back cut. It's also a good time to add a port divider, whether you ever add a header or not. Don't forget the replace the valve stem seals too. If you buy a valve job gasket kit the valve stem seals will be included in the kit. Be sure to use hardened washers on the head bolts on reassembly.

It does sound like your carb is beyond redemption. Consider upgrading to an Autolite 1100 from a '65 or '66 200. It will be compatible with your distributor and tuned right should not use any more gas than a good running 1904.

In case your interested, I think Mike was looking into having the HEI distributors available for the early blocks. Another option is to upgrade to a Petronix Ignitor.

When you get ready to begin disassembly start by removing the rocker arm cover. Then have someone start the engine while you observe the rockers. Specifically, how long it takes for oil to begine oozing out of each rocker arm. It will start in the back and finish in the front ones. IF it takes more then a few seconds to get oil to the front rockers you will need to remove and thoroughly clean the inside of the shaft and the two holes in each rocker.

The holes on the side of the rockers can be drilled out to 1/8" to minimize future plug ups. Make sure you have waisted bolts at the back rocker arm staunchion and the back driver's side head bolt. All 200s and 250 from '75 on use these waisted or tapered head bolts.

When you mill the head, make sure to re-establish the oil transfer slot in the head.

Adios, David
 
I've got David's Book.

It's how I knew I had a problem in the first place..

What I need is for my shop manual to arrive so i get the rest of the info that I'm missing.

i've found a rocker arm shaft and have the correct push rods on the way.
What are the best places to buy a remanned or new Carb from?

So in the mean time I'll go POR15 some floor pans.

Nathan
 
We've noted (here in Oz, at least) the ability to run hydro cams in solid blocks. Member "fxp" has done this himself.
 
Building a kustom myself. I'd really like to see some pics of yours. Can you post them? e-mail them to me? please…
 
Lagrasta,

I have pictures posted on TFFN of my 62 ranchero.
I can send you pictures personally later when I'm at home and have access to them.
I need to upload the pictures i took last night. I've been working at getting it all in one color of primer.

Nathan
 
David

I got everything put back together. And its running great.. I got a reman carb. I went with a Holley 1908 it has a much bigger throat than the 1904 I replaced..
So far it runs and sounds great..

I did a compression test on the engine today. With a warm engine, one plug removed at a time and the throttle wide open. cranking of 5 seconds per cylinder.

I had the following results.. cylinder/Psi... 1/140, 2/150, 3/155, 4/140, 5/140, 6/135..

Pretty even numbers across the board.. alot higher than I was expecting too.

Nathan
 
Seems right in the middle to me and they are all close. Over 100 usually runs fine in stock low compression motors.
 
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