Hole in My new to me block--- Sugestions?

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I was given a 250 ci to put in the bronc. The owner said some kid relative was racing the mavrick and thats how it got a (#6) rod thrown into the block. It has a silver dollar hole on driver side tward the bottom. The peices of rod must be in the pan because he said the piston is up top stuck with part of the rod and he drove it home fine as a 5 cylinder.

If (lord come the day) I get a new head, I dont wanna have chewing gum and jbweld on my block at all.

Any suggestions on repairing this?? Its not near the water jackets. Just above the oil pan.
 
bronco6banger":2i3rz7o0 said:
ny suggestions on repairing this?? Its not near the water jackets. Just above the oil pan.
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One suggestion. Don't try to repair it. Get a new block or another used one in good condition from somewhere. That one's toast.

In fact, if it were me, I would regard any parts that are lubricated with motor oil to be highly suspect at best. (That's most of the engine, by the way.)

You could salvage the valve cover, carb, water pump, and some other parts from that engine, but the block? I wouldn't even bother. Frankly, the expression "scrap iron" comes to mind.
 
he speaks the truth
the small six is easy enough to find that i would snag one from a junk yard and not worry about that block at all
 
I heard there is a shop somewhere around the midwest that was built to repair steam engines that does engine block repairs. The guy that told be about it had one done on a Dusenberg. You had to look really really close inside the water jacket to tell there was a repair. After paint on the outside you would not be able to tell. I didnt bother to ask what it cost. I guess that engine was one of like 8 that were ever made. I was told that Jay Leno owned the other known survivors. Part of the process involves baking the thing in a oven at various stages of the repair. I guess it can take weeks to make a minor repair and even longer for larger problems. Just hearing that sounds quite expensive.
 
I have heard of way worse things than this being repared. even cracked heads. But since its a daily driver I may look for a short block :splat:
 
Sure you can probably repair it, but it's going to end up costing you more than finding a new block - so why ?

It's not like 250's are rare or anything...
 
I found some welding rods for $20.oo I would be willing to try. I dont beleive its a total loss until i look inside. I have tried to find a motor for several years here. People seem to scrap them for v8s. I ran an add for one and this is all I got. I am not paying $400 either. I will get 351 before I do that. I like the 170 fine but am limited on bell options. My dad has ran a cracked head for a long time by adding liquid glass to the coolant so I'm sure someone knows a fix for a hole by the pan.

I guess I wondering if anyone had knowlege of things like fordconvert mentioned.

I may try this till I get a new one.

http://www.muggyweld.com/cast.html
 
well its stuffed now so not a lot to lose, gasket set, rod piston rings and a careful look around. you will be the one that truly knows the if it was worth the effort. they got the phonix to fly didnt they. plenty of places in nz do that type of welding on that type of injury
 
Thats what I am thinking. The auto encyclopedia I have shows tons of engine repairs worse than this. It shows How to "stitch it'' . Drill holes screw up a plate and other methods. I think i'm gunna try to fix for now till i find out about the other block I finally found. who knows ?

The book mentions cleaning being the part most important for it to be done right.

The real shame is the guy who gave it to me said it only had 60000 on it.

At the least I guess I have an elctronic ignition :D
 
A couple of old timers have told me that prepping the weld with a file or hacksaw is part of the deal. Apparently grinders and wirebrushes contaminate and then "seal" the surface, which then compromises weld strength.

So, caustic soda washing ought to degrease the bits well enough, then hand file the crack edges into a vee. A light rinse with phosphoric acid solution just prior to welding should see you done with all your prep...
 
Correct, the wirebrushes leave themselves behind so to speak and makes the area impure. For twenty bucks, I'd try it-even if it doesn't work, thats still a pretty cheap learning experience tha may work on something else down the road. One projects failure may be anothers success!
 
JOHN G":1oa7x9j8 said:
Correct, the wirebrushes leave themselves behind so to speak and makes the area impure. For twenty bucks, I'd try it-even if it doesn't work, thats still a pretty cheap learning experience tha may work on something else down the road. One projects failure may be anothers success!
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Thats right! What the H-E-toothpick-toothpick did they do before the boneyards were full? fixem.
 
See, to me this is just dumb. Can you fix it? YES. Yes, you can weld cast Iron. I could weld that up no problem.


But, WHY? Seriously WHY? There are probably 10 250's in the pick n' pull in San Jose... Why would you bother?
 
And i am not in california. I just walked the bone yard again and no sixes exept 300's. And whats a calyfornia boneyard sell motors for?? I can weld it for $20 and do some light work and cleenup. The repairs like this before were quit common back when. I just havnt done it before. And what it can be a problem to weld cast correctly. So any old schoolers who know what they are talking about is the imput i was looking for.
 
Bort62":3l9nlor0 said:
See, to me this is just dumb. Can you fix it? YES. Yes, you can weld cast Iron. I could weld that up no problem.


But, WHY? Seriously WHY? There are probably 10 250's in the pick n' pull in San Jose... Why would you bother?
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Same reason you turbo'd your 200 instead of dropping a 302 in it...it's not necessarily a purely rational decision.
 
wallaka":1kdeutna said:
Bort62":1kdeutna said:
See, to me this is just dumb. Can you fix it? YES. Yes, you can weld cast Iron. I could weld that up no problem.


But, WHY? Seriously WHY? There are probably 10 250's in the pick n' pull in San Jose... Why would you bother?
Click to expand...

Same reason you turbo'd your 200 instead of dropping a 302 in it...it's not necessarily a purely rational decision.
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302 won't fit in an early roundbody.

It always amuses me when people come on here asking for "advice" when really all they want is affirmation of their pre-conceived plan.

If you want to weld a hole closed in your block, go ahead. I hope you are a good welder as welding cast iron of this (low) quality is a HUGE pain in the ass. It's akin to welding fiberglass with interstitial pieces of metal.

I have a crack in the deck of my block, around one of the bolt holes. I welded it closed because my motor had less than 1000 miles on the rebuild and was already in the car. When I rebuild it next time for more boost, I will be getting a new block.
 
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