Stuck oil pan!

69Falcon

Well-known member
Nothing like trying to tear down a 27 year old motor. I've removed all the bolts from the oil pan, used PB Blaster on the seams, tried a rubber mallet for persuasion, but still can't get the oil pan off. I've thought about wedging a paintscraper in to loosen it, but am afraid of damage. Any suggestions?
 
i wouldn't pry, but i would try and wiggle it a little bit, see if there's any spot that's already loose

combination of putty knife and rubber mallet is a good idea, wedge the knife in and then hit it with the mallet
 
8) i have always had good results with a putty knife and a rubber mallet. as stated dont pry on the pan, just work the putty knife all the way around.
 
If you do want to rap on it, use a softwood block to spread the load along a side. The timing cover and damper are already off, I suppose?
 
Actually, the timing cover and damper are still on. I haven't figured out how to get the damper off; nothing to stop it from rotating when I crank on the bolt.
 
Sudden impact. You fit the socket and breaker bar, holding with one hand along the axis of rotation and taking up all freeplay. Then strike the bar end sharply with a three pound hammer, in the direction of loosening. Repeat until the bolt loosens, then use a puller on the damper.

From memory, there are four or so bolts between the timing cover and oil pan that may be hard to reach with it all assembled.
 
69Falcon":5ib29pmc said:
Actually, the timing cover and damper are still on. I haven't figured out how to get the damper off; nothing to stop it from rotating when I crank on the bolt.

1st route - oil pan is still on

Unscrew a spark plug and feed a bunch of rope down into the cylinder, any will technically work but most choose #1. ***Do your very best to make sure it's on the compression stroke as to not bend valves.*** Finger tightly over the hole or a compression tester usually does the trick.

2nd route - the oil pan is off

I've usually just stuck a wrench between the block and the counterweights, and just make sure it isn't jamming up against anything that it could hurt like a machined surface, connecting rod, etc..

Afterwards - the bolt is off

(just to check) You do have a harmonic balancer puller right? if the outer ring is yanked on too hard it'll move on that thin rubber spacer and throw it off balance and off axis, i.e. wobbling. Belts usually won't last long and can be thrown off. Basically new balancer time.


As for the pan gasket, I've always worked in a old paint scraper in between there. nice and thin.
 
I do it with an impact wrench.

If it was an AT a pipe or socket extension through one of the gaps in the flexplate to any of the ridges in the back of the block. (this requires a friend since your arms are not likely long enough to reach both sides) Remember this for the install when you are expected to torque the bolt back on.
 
Guess I should've mentioned that the head is off the block, it was a manual tranny but now there is nothing attached to the block (not even the flywheel) All the pulleys are still attached as well.

Got tied up yesterday so didn't have time to monkey with it. My plan is to use a putty knife and rubber mallet to free up the oilpan, then use the flywheel bolts to mount something (angle iron?) to use as a wedge to prevent the crank from rotating while I hit the bolt on the front. Sound good?
 
Well if you've got a flatish piece of metal around, I'd drill 3 holes in it, bolt it to the cylinder block and run a 3rd bolt into the cylinder to stop the piston. or even just 2 holes of there is a hole close enough to the cylinder/the metal piece is long enough and won't flex. You might be able to just clamp it down and stick a block of wood or a rag into the cylinder, OR use the edge of 2 bolts to hold the metal piece down and stick something down into the cylinder. Any number of things. Just be sure to keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn't flex or move too much and bugger up the head surface or anything else.
 
I stuck a piece of 2x4 in between one of the crank throws and the block. Worked like a champ, and no possible way of dinging anything. Plus easy fabrication.
 
I dont know the details but I have been told that there are cheap $25 impact wrenches that run off 12V. The kind to get are ones that when you squeeze the trigger and it winds up till you let go then it delivers a 'wack' that will usually break the bolt loose. I have never used or seen one of these myself but have been told for the money they work.
 
It's honestly not needed for this application, though. A breaker bar and three pound hammer will do it perfectly. Would be surprised if it took more than six blows - the key is to make them a "shock" with sharpness.

I'm not a big fan of wedging or stopping stuff, as it may apply loads elsewhere that aren't so much designed in. This won't hurt a Ford six but can engender bad practice with more modern engines...
 
addo":1so4ys6e said:
It's honestly not needed for this application, though. A breaker bar and three pound hammer will do it perfectly. Would be surprised if it took more than six blows - the key is to make them a "shock" with sharpness.

Thanks for the tips guys. I used a 2x3 wedged in to stop the crank from rotating, had my wife put her weight on the motor mounts to stop the block from rotating (was worried about knocking over the engine stand, its a cheap 3 legged style) and used a breaker bar and hammer to knock it loose. Only took 3 good hits. :D

Over on the head, I got most of the bolts off the exhaust manifold; one broke, and another is still stuck and starting to strip. :devilish: As noted in one of my other threads, the bolts have rusted quite a bit. 1/2" is too small and 9/16" is too big; likewise with 13mm and 14mm. I've used a ton of PB Blaster, and a fair amount of heat. Only thing left that I can think of is to heat it up and let some wax get down into the threads. (After that, out comes the sawzall!!!)
 
I if you give up I would grind the head off and remove the manifold. With the stud still sticking out it will me much easier to try and remove it because you can get the lube more directly in and keep rocking it back and fourth with a vice grips while putting on the heat. Drilling them out stinks much worse.
 
i'd just grind off the head of the bolt, or drill it out
you're going to have to replace the bolt anyways, so why not get some of your frustration out by some destruction?
:eek:


and going back to the harmonic dampener bolt, no need to wedge anything inside the crank, and as addo says, you don't want to put force on anything that isn't designed for it, so get a chunk of wood, put it in a cylinder when it's at BDC, then put the head back on with a couple bolts in it, then just crank away, the piston is used to this pressure, as long as you make sure the valves aren't open you should be fine
 
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