threaded coolant port
- Thread starter dagenham
- Start date
I'm not aware of another port, but why not just plumb a 'y' or a 't' out of the stock location using brass/bronze connections. I believe the bent8's use an extension from a similar location, but you should be able to rig up a splitter setup from plumbing parts and teflon up the junctions. As long as water at back of the head can reach both (dual) sensors (assuming that is what you're shooting for) you should be good.
Someone posted a still available part number for the stat housing with the threads in it not that long ago. If I did that I would leave the factory light or gauge in the factory location and put your new gauge in the stat housing.
rommaster2
Well-known member
It was posted in my thread however I believe pretty much any of the ones you buy from a parts store these days should have the threaded port as the one I got from Falcon Parts has the port (or at least I think I got it from them *shrug*.
Frankenstang":36obpe5z said:
8) you can use a T or Y fitting with an oil pressure gauge, but not with a temperature gauge. the thermocouple in the sending unit needs the coolant flowing across it, and if you use a T or Y fitting you get a stagnat pool of coolant around the sending unit and then you get false information that could cost you your engine.
rbohm":8w1xob4h said:
Unless the sensor were crammed against the wall of the pipe used for the T or Y (no room for water circulation), I don't see how you would get 'stagnant pool' of coolant around it. The water will still circulate within the 'T' or 'Y", granted not as efficiently as if it were flowing through, but the water will still definitely reflect the temperature of the surrounding water at the back of the head. This is where the water temperature is near it's highest level after it has left the block. My concern with putting one in the thermostat housing is that it will not always be surrounded by water unless you're not running a thermostat. When the thermostat is closed a sensor mounted in the thermostat housing will be on the radiator side of the thermostat, not necessarily surrounded by water and not giving as accurate temperature.
I've made many thermostat housing spacers for inlines that allow the user to put a fitting into it to route water to the intake when replacing the intake from exhaust heated to water heated, and you could do the same, as it will give you the temp behind the thermostat on the front side of the head. Since they also are profiled to match the thermostat housing shape, it blends into obscurity and is kinda' stealth in appearance, so it is not very noticeable and allows a nice uncluttered look. Maybe you could try something like that.
Once you bleed the air out of the coolant system including the upper radiator hose, there will always be coolant on both sides of the thermostat. The only places in a cooling system that there is a chance that you will not have water at all times would be the higest locations on the system. I.E. The top bend of the upper radiator hose or the top resevoir of the radiator, if you are using a closed system type cooling system with an expansion tank both of these areas should be full as well, it's just the old school systems that had a tendacy to need the expansion space.Frankenstang":6dbv0ind said:
-ron
Well, just to be clear, my contention was simply that if you put a 2" nipple on the head to a 't' where both sensors are connected, there is no way you're going to get a temperature measure with variance of more than a couple degreees at the sensors relative to in the head. Water is an efficient conductor of heat, it would not be possible for the temperature of the water at the back of the head to be 205* while the water in the 't' (and the sensors' were reading 190). Thermal conductivity just does not work like that. Sure the water would not be circulated in the 't' as well as it would be in a free flowing passage, but it will still ciruculate, and more importantly it will directly reflect the temperature of the adjacent water.
I had a "street tee" in my old 200. was a female-female-male tee. the male end was threaded directly into the heaterhose port in the front of the head and the heater hose nipple threaded into that.
there is a threaded hole under the exhaust manifold.
also used a threaded t-stat housing before
back of the head seemed to read cold for me for some reason.
there is a threaded hole under the exhaust manifold.
also used a threaded t-stat housing before
back of the head seemed to read cold for me for some reason.
Frankenstang":3klim0qt said:
8) except that everyone i know of how has tried it, has always gotten bad readings. some have had engines overheat with no indication on the gauge, and others thought their engines were overheating, but when they put the sending unit where the coolant can flow over it as was designed, they found nothing wrong.