Trying to pull engine but it's hung

mysavioreigns

Famous Member
I'm pulling my 200 out of the mustang (again) but this time I decided to just unbolt the transmission and hoist the engine straight up and out. Problem is, after I got it separated from the dowel pins between the block and C4 bellhousing, I remembered the good ol' torque converter was still inside, lol. I believe that is the culprit - maybe it's not separating form the input shaft?

Any ideas on how to get it apart?

Thanks,
 
Normally when you remove the engine without an auto trans you first remove the bolts between the torque converter and the flexplate / flywheel. When you remove the bolts the converter will usually slide back far enough to almost clear the crank while its still attached. It will for sure then be clear by the time you split them far enough to clear the dowel pins. If the converter is still bolted to the engine you are going to have to be able to move them something like 8 inches straight forward before you can go up and in most cars there is not room to do this because of the frame or steering hitting the oil pan.
 
fordconvert":f7e2rhq4 said:
Normally when you remove the engine without an auto trans you first remove the bolts between the torque converter and the flexplate / flywheel. When you remove the bolts the converter will usually slide back far enough to almost clear the crank while its still attached. It will for sure then be clear by the time you split them far enough to clear the dowel pins. If the converter is still bolted to the engine you are going to have to be able to move them something like 8 inches straight forward before you can go up and in most cars there is not room to do this because of the frame or steering hitting the oil pan.

X2 on that.
 
Did you crawl underneath and open the inspection plate and undo those bolts?
Shouldn't need to pull the engine forward more than a few inches to free it up.
And then angle it up and out.

It seems the converter came out with the engine for me, but it's just loose on there.
 
fordconvert":11r30plj said:
Normally when you remove the engine without an auto trans you first remove the bolts between the torque converter and the flexplate / flywheel. When you remove the bolts the converter will usually slide back far enough to almost clear the crank while its still attached. It will for sure then be clear by the time you split them far enough to clear the dowel pins. If the converter is still bolted to the engine you are going to have to be able to move them something like 8 inches straight forward before you can go up and in most cars there is not room to do this because of the frame or steering hitting the oil pan.

8) not to mention the fact that if you continue on your current course of leaving the torque converter bolted to the engine, you run the risk of damaging the torque converter itself, and the input shaft of the transmission, and the front seal of the transmission, as well as the front pump.

do yourself a big favor and unbolt the converter before going any farther.
 
Yea I'm going to go unbolt it, shortly, and push it back into the transmission. Can't believe I forgot about something so elementary :nono:

Let me ask, do I need to rotate the crank to get access to all 4 bolts on the Torque converter? I can't remember if that's required or, if I stick a wrench down in there and unscrew it, if the nut will have enough clearance room.

If rotating the crank is the correct way, what's the best way - socket on the front crank pulley and rotate? As of now there is no way to bump the engine by starting because everything's removed from it.
 
Yes, you will need to rotate the crank. The bolts are evenly spaced 90 degrees apart.
Socket on the crank bolt will work, pull the plugs will make it easier.
 
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