No start so where do I start?

Over this winter I made some changes on my 200 6. First a new clay smith 264 264 110 cam, with that came new lifters, 302 springs and dual timing set. With this I also added new '78 DS distributer and GM module. Head has been shaved .050 which I estimate puts me now at 8.9-9.0 to 1 compression. When I went to start it up for the first time today nothing but real slow turnover. Now all the new parts have new generous coating of assembly lube and the car sits in an unheaded garage today's temp is 25 degrees. My fuel pump works off the cam and so I have no fuel in lines or probably the bowl of carb. Since the distributor is new should I check for spark first or should I put some gasoline directly into the carb throat? Not sure where to start or should I just wait for warmer weather?

Check for spark first I guess.
Did you make sure the engine was at top dead center before installing the distributor?

Yes I did..however thanks for asking, I'll check tomorrow, should I try a little gas in the carb?

find the vent tube for the carb, and fill the carb bowl with fuel. that will give you a primer for the fuel system, hopefully the rest of the fuel system will run fuel up to the carb before the bowl runs out. also a few drops down the throat of the carb will help fire off the engine. if the engine doesnt start, after that, then make sure the ignition timing is right, and that the ignition system is operating properly.

Mr Comet":3mthnlou said:

...When I went to start it up for the first time today nothing but real slow turnover...

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How slow is real slow? Battery need a recharge?

No battery is OK. Turning over much better today because its 37. However not running I think Rich is on, I am not sure timing is on, I am alone all day until my wife gets home from work so I cant check the timing. I should be close because the vacuum line from the distributor is close to the dipstick. Unless the DS lines up differently then the old LOMs. Does anyone know which setting I should use on multimeter to check the ignition parts? Thanks Denny

Mr Comet":1m6unfco said:

No battery is OK. Turning over much better today because its 37. However not running I think Rich is on, I am not sure timing is on, I am alone all day until my wife gets home from work so I cant check the timing. I should be close because the vacuum line from the distributor is close to the dipstick. Unless the DS lines up differently then the old LOMs. Does anyone know which setting I should use on multimeter to check the ignition parts? Thanks Denny

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I think you need to remove the spark plugs, remove the distributor cap, mark on the distributor at the bottom of the cap where #1 post is located, and rotate the engine by hand (in neutral) and set it to TDC using the timing mark and verify the piston is at the top of it's stroke. Now check rotor position in relation to your mark on the distributor. Is it past the mark a lot, a little, on it, or just before it? The rotor rotates clockwise, RodC

Some of the rotor tip is on the mark, however the center of the rotor is a little before the mark. I have sent a picture of the rotor, dist exc. to rbohm perhaps he can let us know if I am reading it correctly.

Possibly 180* out. Find TDC on the compression stroke and make sure the rotor is pointing in the right direction. Could be you need to re-stab the distributor.

No that was OK. Turns out I over looked a simpler thing a unplugged vacuum line on the Carb plate. Once I plugged that it started right up. Since I had replaced the cam over the winter I ran the engine at 2000 rpm for a half an hour to set the cam. Should I change the oil and filter again now? I have the timing without vacuum line hooked up to dist canister set at 14 btdc. Is that OK with my current setup?

Mr Comet":1u7ff4pg said:

No that was OK. Turns out I over looked a simpler thing a unplugged vacuum line on the Carb plate. Once I plugged that it started right up. Since I had replaced the cam over the winter I ran the engine at 2000 rpm for a half an hour to set the cam. Should I change the oil and filter again now? I have the timing without vacuum line hooked up to dist canister set at 14 btdc. Is that OK with my current setup?

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My 200 is similar. I have the Oregon Cam 268S and I believe my timing is currently at 24 BTDC. I don't know if my 250 head is shaved or not. I have a 68 Ford distributor with a Pertronix and Blaster coil. I use a vacuum gauge (at manifold port) to get timing real close and then check with a dial-back timing light. Now would be a good time to change oil and filter and check for metallic debris in both, jmo, RodC.