Head upgrade

67drewstang

67drewstang

Well-known member
Here is my upgrade from the original 200 ci head on my 1967 Mustang convertible.

My new head is a 250 head with the extra large Classic Inlines valves, a large log head and an Autolite 1101 with a 1.69 inch throat. It has been port polished and milled to yield 9.5 to 1 compression with a Reinz head gasket.

First off my new carb showed up with a broken acclerator pump arm.

acceleratorpumpcam_zps8245ae10.jpg


Luckily, I was able to salvage the one of my original carb.

head4_zps96a8546a.jpg


Good as 47 year old "new"

Here is a picture which shows what an 1101 gets you over an 1100. A huge difference in throat size:

head5_zps01b96016.jpg


Pulling the head:

head3_zpscb1d2bc5.jpg


head2_zpsb76c3813.jpg


Note that the head gasket is all but blown at the right side of #5.

The size of the large log is much bigger than the small log.

head1_zps085020fa.jpg


This will get a 2" or better straight pipe with resonator to maximize performance.
 
Hi,

thanks for the post'n pic.

What yr is the 250 head?
What can one swap over from the other head (if anything) to the new. I have a 170 and seek a post '76 model head for one of my 250s.

Continued good progress with the rebuild!
 
Looks good. I am no expert but you should get a noticeable power increase. You have a good plan using those parts for probably enough power to get a nice driving experience. Custom curve for the DSII might be good and there are guys on this forum to do it at not too great of an expense.
 
chad":19gsw572 said:
Hi,

thanks for the post'n pic.

What yr is the 250 head?
What can one swap over from the other head (if anything) to the new. I have a 170 and seek a post '76 model head for one of my 250s.

Continued good progress with the rebuild!
Click to expand...

Everything swaps over except the vacuum lines, and that is just a matter of finding a size adapter end. I talked to the builder, and it's actually an '80 200 head, but has been milled to get the correct compression. It is my understanding that except for the log and chamber size, all of these heads are identical.

The '80 head manifold has more holes in it for vacuum driven accessories and smog gear, but that's just a matter of plugging what I don't need.

I put the new head, valve train and cover on yesterday, and am going to try to hook up the carb this afternoon.
 
bmbm40":9xrktmqe said:
Looks good. I am no expert but you should get a noticeable power increase. You have a good plan using those parts for probably enough power to get a nice driving experience. Custom curve for the DSII might be good and there are guys on this forum to do it at not too great of an expense.
Click to expand...

Yes sir, once I get it up and running, I will send that DSII off to be recurved. Though I may enjoy driving it for awhile before I do so.
 
Good info. I just picked up a '75 Granada 2dr in near mind condition with only 60K. Yes, it's the elusive little old lady's car. Much at this thread will help wake it up.
 
Just ran into an issue: The 1101 throttle arm doesn't work with the existing linkage, plus it hits the manifold.

I'm thinking I need to go with a cable throttle setup.

Problem is, all I know about are the Lokar setups; and those are like $250 or more, complete.

Anyone know a lower price option?

Drew
 
I will definitely check on that. I was also wondering if I could reposition the throttle actuator arm down 90 degrees so that it might be possible to reuse the old linkage. I am definitely learning a ton doing this.

Drew
 
@67drewstang,

I used a Lokar throttle cable (maybe $60-$75) for my '62 Ranchero. I don't know how similar or different a '67 mustang gas pedal might be, but the ball on the end of the Lokar throttle cable worked without any modifications with my stock gas pedal, and all I had to do was make a throttle cable bracket, which I cut out of a piece of mild steel I picked up at Sears Hardware. I needed a custom throttle cable because I'm using the aluminum head and CI intake manifold.

Thanks
Bob the Builder
 
62Ranchero200":asikiwna said:
@67drewstang,

I used a Lokar throttle cable (maybe $60-$75) for my '62 Ranchero. I don't know how similar or different a '67 mustang gas pedal might be, but the ball on the end of the Lokar throttle cable worked without any modifications with my stock gas pedal, and all I had to do was make a throttle cable bracket, which I cut out of a piece of mild steel I picked up at Sears Hardware. I needed a custom throttle cable because I'm using the aluminum head and CI intake manifold.

Thanks
Bob the Builder
Click to expand...

I am having a hard time visualizing how a cable will replace the solid rods. Do you have a picture of your setup?

I've found a 24" Lokar cable set up on Amazon for $43 along with a cable bracket and spring for $20 something.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000COMNO0/ref ... display-20

Am assuming the clevis attaches to the end of the foot feed arm and you loop the cable to make the 90 degree turn necessary to pull the throttle arm the correct way?

P1010022.JPG


And that should leave the kick down actuator untouched and fully functional.

Drew
 
10270542_10203018147049077_5629641928055287368_n.jpg


10290664_10203018145649042_2258445891031602785_n.jpg


10170789_10203024989540135_6179164530670454958_n.jpg


I had it running today, but the accelerator pump is shooting fuel out of the top behind the hinge, and the idle is too high. The throttle arm hits the adaptor bolt, so I need to grind a titch off the arm to get the idle down. Otherwise, it runs exceptionally well.
 
I C ya got the DSII in a pic &
the old rod carb linkage in another.
Post up a pic of the new linkage & carb if U
want any suggestions. Some here have come up w/great
solutions on a bracket if U want any ideas there.

Thanks, ur gettin close, no?!?
 
Okay, here are some pics. BTW, that stock linkage is from another car. Right now I have no linkage whatsoever, and I've tried about half a dozen other things and they do not work.

You'll note the carb position is further back than stock.

overheadengine2_zps7eb58c02.jpg


And instead of the rod actuating the arm vertically, the arm actually goes transverse of the engine.

overheadengine_zps6a038323.jpg


It starts just fine, and I can adjust the idle, make it rev, etc by hand, but no joy on getting the stupid linkage/cable to work.
 
OK, pic is not back far enuff - but doesn't that tab/arm that sits way over the valve cover have a set screw. I thought that was where some used the hold down function of the unit to secure the outer cable so the inner one could hook to the linkage of the carb. Long enuff cable can have a 1/2 circle in it's length to transverse that 3/4 of the carb.

Next (actually 1st in assembly order) would B a swaged ball that you place thru a current or fashioned arm actuated by the gas peddle. It would go into the outer shield - both fed as a single unit thru the firewall. Sometimes the arm for the peddle and an anchor point for these two also has to be fab.ed. Often a lill heat on a current arm can allow a bend that suffices adapting rather than a search for new appropriate unit.

I hope this is clear enuff so that even if impossible to atqain you can visualize the finished modification. The parts from the above named vehicles will replicate this same process. I went from rods to cable but was able to use stock rather than Locar or other aftermarket cable...
 
JackFish":d4bqkpsu said:
Have you looked at the Fairmont setup?
There is a bracket coming up from the driver side of the engine that holds the cable.
You could probably just swap over a complete setup from the pedal to the carb.
I looked around for a good pic but only found this.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v619/ ... 52289e.jpg
Click to expand...

I might try that. Alternatively, I might just move the accelerator arm from the passenger, to the driver side of the engine compartment.
 
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