White smoke

jarrod

New member
Back-story:
I have a 64 Ranchero with a 144 that was rebuilt at some point. Looks like the original block (C4 code), different head (C9 or C8 code––it’s blue, could it be a 170 head?), different exhaust manifold (C8 code, orange-ish) I rebuilt the carb and the transmission. I’m about to start rebuilding the engine.

Issue:
I’m noticing white smoke on start up, and after shifting (especially into first and second). After running for a while and then restarting the temp gauge shoots waayyyy up, a huge cloud of white smoke billows out, and then the temp gauge slowly falls back to just above the coldest warm mark on the gauge. I’ve also noticed water dripping from the tailpipe, but it seems to only show up after sitting for a few days…

Here’s a video of the tail pipe from a drive around the block (it’s long, sorry):
http://vimeo.com/hankfilm/ranchero-144-tailpipe

What I know:
Motor feels solid
Clean oil on dipstick
Clean oil in pan
I flushed the coolant last week, drove it probably 20 miles since then and just had to add a little under a half of a quart of water. I'm hoping it's just from the coolant making it's way around the system after the flush...

Compression test:
1 – 146
2 – 146
3 – 142
4 – 145
5 – 140
6 – 144

Carb is a rebuilt 1940...

Idle set to "around" 650 RPM... The meter jumps around between 59 and 71–although it's mostly in the 60s (it's x10). For the record, I'm using a piece of poo HF Dwell/Tach, but I'm pretty sure something is awry with my car. I can hear it pulsing, maybe you can hear it too in the video link up above...?

Timing advance is at about 12 or 13 (the marks on the block only go to 10); there's no pinging.

I’m hoping it’s just a head gasket and not a crack in the head or block. I’m removing the head this weekend and taking it in to be Magnafluxed next week.

Anybody have any expert opinions? I would be most grateful for any wisdom shared.
 
its not a head gasket problem, the numbers are too consistent across the board. however you do need to pull the head and check for cracks around the exhaust valves that run through the seats.
 
The heat up on restart can be considered normal, the engine will heat soak after being shut off and build the heat up in the water near the temp sender. Once you restart, the coolant starts circulating and you quickly get a true reading that is much lower.

As far as white smoke, that usually is steam from water finding its way into the combustion chamber, but the way the video looks it doesn't look that bad? Not sure how hot everything was when you first started it up but that's when you seemed to get the biggest puff and maybe that could be condensation burning off plus also possibly a little initial oil burning due to worn valve guides. Either way, you may be looking at taking the head off for a look.

Scott
 
Thanks for the feedback. I guess the smoke does have a blueish tint to it... This is my first time getting into an engine. I'm wondering how I can tell what head it is? It would be nice to know what it is and what's been done to it so I can make sure it ends up with the right compression, I want my MPGs. It has a 68 casting number, so it seems that it would be a 170 or 200. It's blue so I'm thinking it's the 200, but it could've been painted... Based on everything else I've uncovered with the rest of the car, I get the feeling the previous rebuild was not done with too much concern for accuracy...
 
jarrod":11todmld said:
Thanks for the feedback. I guess the smoke does have a blueish tint to it... This is my first time getting into an engine. I'm wondering how I can tell what head it is? It would be nice to know what it is and what's been done to it so I can make sure it ends up with the right compression, I want my MPGs. It has a 68 casting number, so it seems that it would be a 170 or 200. It's blue so I'm thinking it's the 200, but it could've been painted... Based on everything else I've uncovered with the rest of the car, I get the feeling the previous rebuild was not done with too much concern for accuracy...
I've done more than my fair share of engine rebuilds, only we called them overhauls when I was doing the A&P thang.
Even in that arena, where an alternator for a Continental 0-200 runs 200 smackers used (and it's a Ford unit no less), it's gotten cheaper to send the engine to a rebuilder as an exchange. I understand the lure of doing an overhaul yourself. But let's get real. It's better to take the dismantled engine to a reputable rebuilder and have everything checked out, bored, trued, checked for maggots (magna-flux) etc. You'll find it's cheaper in the long run. If you wish to assemble it yourself, so be it. But why do that when it's not much more to have them do the building and get the guarantee that goes with it?




Now when you start wanting to develop a bazillion horsepower, disregard everything I've said. Unless you have access to a shop like Sunwest in Medical Lake, Wa..............
 
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