My Second Build (It's a long story)

On this build I have chosen a 1973 (D3) Exhaust manifold since it has a large center section of the manifold. There is a hole appears somewhat thread a 1/2 inch bolt will turn in it 6 turns and then get too tight to turn by hand, I believe it was for return to the carb line but not sure. I am not going to use it and wish to just plug it off. Does anyone know what the thread is. I am thinking maybe 3/8 npt but have nothing to test my theory with. (no 3/8 fitting) The hole is angled towards the front of the engine on the top side of the manifold about the same position as the manifold outlet hole. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
 
It could be a NPT or a Tubing thread since you said it gets tighter as you turn the 1/2 inch bolt in it and if the threads are clean ie no rust or crud, then it's likely NPT. You could use a brass or steel pipe plug or if you aren't concerned about saving the threads for use then you could use a 1/2 inch Allen set screw with hi temp silicone to seal it. Good luck :nod:
 
I am using Brad Penn breakin oil. Straight 30w. How low of temperature outside can I safely use it. We get pretty cold here in Michigan. I don't want to damage the engine components. Thanks
 
You're probably over thinking it bro. Unless it is below freezing it won't make much difference. If you want some extra peace of mind, hit tractor supply and pick up a magnetic oil pan heater. The thing uses magnets to stick to the bottom of your oil pan and you plug it into a 110 volt extension cord. In an hour or so the oil will be nice and toasty and to your liking. The things are about 30 bucks. I have one for my tractor i could loan you but somehow it is missing. :banghead:
 
The build is completed and she fired up. Now comes the 500 miles breakin period before the first oil change. Thanks to everyone for all the help, Let's hope that the third time is the charm.
 
I reused my cam and lifters so there was no cam setting this build, however thanks for commenting anyways. Denny
 
If you do decide to break it in using the method I described via text, you can change the oil after your full throttle pulls as the engine will be broken in at that point and the oil will be pretty contaminated. If you do not use the method I explained to you, you will likely need many more than 500 miles for the rings to seal, if they seal at all because let's face it; you drive that thing like an elderly white man and that is not conducive to producing a quick and effective ring seal, especially with moly rings. :beer:
 
Well this honkey white trash anglo saxon was out doin' 3500rpm and 75mph in 4th gear. So with that being said. should I go with the 10w40 again like last time? I noticed my oil pressure was alittle under 15lb upon my return from my law breakin escapade.
 
Well done grandpa. :beer:

10w40 will give you a touch more oil pressure when warm if you feel it's better and when cold it will be thinner which is good of course . No need to worry about 15 psi @ idle whem warm as long as its good at speed and load, ie 10 psi for every thousand rpm. :beer:

So are you gonna let us know how she's running or what?

8)
 
Well seems pretty smooth but remember I have the homemade linkage for the accelerator so I need to tweek with that first plus I need to get the exhaust properly installed and not cobbled. All and all I would say I am good. Like I said some fine tuning. I haven't drivin it much cuz some wise youngin told me to get those rings seated ASAP.
 
:stick: :nono: :deadhorse:

You've lost your firm footin bouy...

RichardRoundtreesGonnaShaftYOULHS.jpg
RichardRoundtreesGonnaShaftYOURHS.jpg

http://www.movieweb.com/movie/speed-rac ... conference


(Mind you, 3500 rpm on mine is 93 mph.)
 
It may be a down under thing but I have noticed that if not technical in nature, xctasy's posts are often written in a certain code that need to be deciphered using google or one of those rings with a dial on it. :D
 
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