221 oil pump

Im looking to buy a new 221 oil pump but no supplier has one. Any ideas

Yep, they are unique to the 221. When you find a source let me know. Most parts shops try to sell you a 250 pump

is there any alternative? i was thinking of a 221 bottom end for my 2V head and blower, also if your in Australia, maybe get onto Marty White Race Engines, he builds 221’s.

Let me know if you have any luck with this, I haven't been able to track down a pump for my 221 yet.

I think the body is slightly longer to clear the increased stroke, not sure if the rotors etc are interchangeable?

Frenchtown Flyer under membership search?
may help (has the older models...

Comander " " (what's his handle?)

good luck..........

Ive had some replys regarding the oil pump on my Facebook group i run, pm me for details or join up Hot Inline Sixes and Vintage

If the 221 oil pump is longer to clear the rotating assembly couldn't you just use a 200 oil pump and then make a spacer out of Aluminum or steel to rasie the pump so it matches the height of a 221 pump? Good luck

Just get the seven bearing oil pump, 5/16" longer 5/16" hex drive.
Melling - Oil Pump
Part # M65C
Line: MEL



Stock 200 US Ford has a Melling M-65B 5.14" long hex shaft, and seven bolt mains compliant USA Melling M-65B oil pump.


I'd guess the 188/221 hex shaft is Aussie taal deck 9.38" 200/250 Ford size, less a little.


http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detai ... &ppt=C0382


The 188 and 221 Aussie I6 used in the 1968 to 1970 XW Falcons and, if I'm not mistaken, some Aussie Transit Vans is a 8.425" minimum height 'low deck' height 250 Aussie high mount starter block that slept with a 7.830" minimum height 200 US block. Its not just 622 thou taller, its wider too with a narrower than Aussie 250 sump.

All Mikes info on the Aussie and Argentine 221 is factually error ridden, Aussie7Mains info was incorrectly editied, and no one responded to my four requests to have it fixed. Including the dates and times of the alloy head and EFI modifications, also incorrect on wikipedia and google seraches show the same tired, reheated info, full of missinformation which first happened in 2001, and has just continued due to message board crashes. The core information needs to be fixed so people don't get misslead.

The crank is still on 200 small six bearings and the small 3-5/8" crank flange, but the timing chain and cam shaft are Aussie 250 position. The width of the oil pan is an intermediate size between the US 200 and Aussie 250. The sump is unique, and there needs to be space for the optional extra throw 3.46" stoke crank, but the 188 with the 2.494" stroke 170 seven bearing crank also gets the increased clearance crank. The short deck 200's had a sump feed pipe to the bottom of the oil pump, the Aussie/US 250 used a feed to the rear of the oil pump. The common USA Melling M-65B used on the 170 to 200 seven bolt main engines doesn't work, its 5/16" too short, and hits the 221 crank.

As long as you use a good quality oil 5/16" hex pump drive, you can use the Aussie 250 hex pump drive and the Aussie tall deck 1971-1993 200/250 oil pump and pickup, but you have to adapt the mount spacings and rework the base of the 188/221 sump to the later tall deck 200/250 sump height. Its basically a case of cutting the base out an extending it downwards, and rewelding it.

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xctasy":n6n2cyko said:

FalconSedanDelivery":n6n2cyko said:

Really , 99% of all aftermarket Deep oil Pans use Extended Pickups , and your going to space the pump :wow:

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Yep, its worse than that, its :duh: :duh: :duh:

because

67Straightsix":n6n2cyko said:

I've modified my oil pan so I have to lengthen my oil pick-up tube. I was trying to figure out the best way to do that when a thought
occurred...instead of lengthening the tube, why can't I put an 1 1/2 inch spacer between the oil pump and the block?

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67Straightsix":n6n2cyko said:

I'm also using arp studs which interferes with the oil pump body, so a spacer would solve both problems.

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its a little different with the early 200 becasue they have funny wieird a$$ under the plate outlets as opposed to the US style tall deck 200/250 outlets,



its worse!

a) :duh: its the ARP studs that always hit the pump.

b) :duh:Most of us just attack the pump with a grinder....I'll bet you did when you did your 250. 62 Ranchero 200 did it to his.



But that's what Ford US did when the 250 came out, dropped the oil pump down the stroke throw length, which is why the 5/16" drive is so much longer on a 250.


Here's my ole dirty 72 XA Falcon tall deck 200.

They shifted the pump down as well in our 1971 on engines, like your US 250, but for us it was to standardize on one type of block, and allow clear the optional 250 crank if so equiped. Sort of a 144 vs 170, 240 vs 300, 289 vs 302, 302C vs 351c, US 5.0 vs Aussie 5.6, 351m vs 400, 429 vs 460 Dive By Trucker "Stroker Ace" mentality that Ford has been so dang good at for so many years. At least with Ford, they didn't put 350 heads on the 305...Ford heads, asside from chamber cc between little and big Lo Po versions were basically all the same.






And '

c, :duh: the pickup pipe from a deep block engine is even easier to extend when most engineering shops have the pipe bender anyway.


But...



It's kinda wierd, but as long as 67Straightsix doesn't ruin the spagetti drive, he can do it all for 30 bucks, less his time for milling and screwing around with us. The only issu is if the hex drive is going to be man enough for the job, but Ithink its is, and if by machining the stuff around it, he can use a standard part, then maybee it'll be the best option.


And if 67Straightsix hits something with that sump, he'll need to call road construction.

Or hire himself out as a grader...

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