Critique build please

Please critique my build plans here.... I am reworking my 66 mustang. Now it has a '78 200 with a '69 3 speed with a 3.20:1 rear axle. Back in '01 when we were beginning with the 2bbl adapters from Langdon, I got a 32/36 Weber with his adapter and put it on mine. I also have a set of Clifford headers and Duraspark II ignition. This worked real well and I parked it in 2008. Fast forward to now. I plan on a complete rebuild of the motor with a t-5 conversion. Basically I want to make this a street driver with some modern improvements.
Here is what I have compiled to do:
I will oversize the pistons and turn the crank as necessary.
right now the pistons are .030 from last rebuild in '94
Complete freshening of the bottom end rebuild with ARP rod bolts and ARP Head studs
Chrome-moly rings
Melling oil pump
Camshaft 264-274
hyrdraulic lifters
adjustable rocker arms
aiming for a 52cc combustion chamber
My machinist can machine the log for a direct fit of my 32/36
Use the double roller chain and gears
Use 302 springs
use the improved valve seals
new guides
head has the 1.75/ 1.39 valves now

Now my questions for you folks:
Which cam would you use? I would like a little thump
How do I tell my machinist to use the 302 springs with the valves?
I also remember about an improved valve seal but the stem had to be machined. Where do I find this? Is it worth it?
Should I upsize the valves?
Do I need to upgrade to MSD ignition and coil or is DII ok?

Any other comments are highly wanted... especially with part numbers. I am just trying to accumulate all the info in one spot for the best build!
Thanks,
Jamie

jamie, i like you plan, with one alteration, i would go with a 1.50ex valve.

Good cam choice.....with the stick I would go with 110° lobe seperation.....I would be personally not go larger than an .040 oversize bore.....but I run mine pretty hard. If you have the cast rods I might look into the earlier forged rods...cast will work but the forged are a little stronger especially when prepped right. The 302 springs will work and setup at stock height..IIRC I have 80# seat pressure. If you go the Double roller chain do not use the oil slinger.....for one it is not needed...it helped keep oil away from the front seal to minimize leaks and not needed with the new materials the seals are made of and the can/will interfere with the double roller chain and send metal shavings into the oiling system.

Jamie, get sealed power pistons .040"over & sealed power plasma moly rings. Make sure your machine shop hones the bores as slick as possible 500 hone & plateau hone if he has the capability.
As R. Bohm said go with the 1.5" exhausts.
Camshaft clay smith 264-274 L/C 110. or Schneider camshaft in that same range.
Get the springs from the camshaft supplier for that camshaft. Their springs have a damper in them & are better than the ford 302 springs.
Zero deck the block & get the chambers down to 50cc's. Get a Victor headgasket which is .044" compressed.
If you have money left get the double row roller timing chain & 1.6 roller rocker arms.
If Will-Does10s doesn't have these items i know Clifford has the JP roller timing chain.
The MSD-6al ignition box is perfect & they make a harness which plugs directly into the DS11. The MSD box also has a rev-limiter.
the chrysler box is also very dependable.
After that get the distributor curved for your application. PM me if i can help with that.Bill

http://www.claysmithcams.com/h-264-0-b- ... -camshaft/
What about this cam?

Where do I get the 1.50 exhaust valves?

Ducktang":husqb2c3 said:

http://www.claysmithcams.com/h-264-0-b-hydraulic-flat-tappet-camshaft/
What about this cam?

Where do I get the 1.50 exhaust valves?

Click to expand...

good mild cam, go with the 110 lobe separation angle for the street.

Howdy Back:

Here's the info on where to get the 1.5" exhaust valves. Call or check them out online.

SI Industries, Inc.
New Address 4477 Shopping Lane
Simi Valley, CA 93063

NATIONWIDE ORDER LINE: 800-564-8258
CA & WORLDWIDE ORDER/TECH LINE: 805-582-0085

Adios, David

Great company to deal with. SI valves can supply what you want.
Make sure your machine shop back cuts the intake valves for more flow.

Could I handle their 274 cam or better stick with the 264? I want to hear a little lope.....

Jamie, stick with the 264 on the intake, the exhaust at 274 is fine.
Just advance it 2 degrees.

Any idea what the part numbers for the arp rod bolts and head studs are? Anyone done anything different with the main caps as studs?