200 cylinder head removal / Head bolts

60sMustang

60sMustang

Well-known member
I'm in the process of pulling the head on my 200 for a valve job to be done. My question is about the head bolts and specifically the best way to remove them without breaking. The ones under the valve cover should be no problem, my concern is more the ones that have been exposed for possibly almost 50 years. I'm not sure that this head has ever been off.

So far I have:
- soaked those bolts in PB Blaster overnight
- used a pick, screwdriver, etc to clear all the build up grease, dirt, oil and who knows what else away from the bolt heads
- sprayed again with PB Blaster and allowing them to currently soak again overnight to loosen any rust now that the bolts are more exposed

Any suggestions on which ones to remove first, or which type of socket is better(regular or multi-point).

Also what's the scenario if one does break off? I'm new to engine work this in depth. I am good at figuring things out though so I'm not afraid to tackle this project, I've done a lot of research. Just curious if someone could lend me some experience here.

Where is the best place to get new head bolts, they seem kinda hard to find?

Thanks!
 
in all the years, and all the engines i have torn down, i have never had a head bolt break, and that includes a few studebaker engines. however it does happen from time to time, so if one does break, there are a few tools you can use to remove the remains of the bolt. i doubt that you will have a problem though.
 
X2 the chance of breaking a head bolt is slim. As to which ones to remove first that would be in the reverse order of the head bolt torquing patern. Good luck :nod:
 
Thanks for the replies. I hope you're both right. I'm thinking it shouldn't be a problem now, especially with the cleanup and PB Blaster use.

I'll post results.
 
yes keep us informed.
Some like the studs, washers, nuts better than a bolt for the job...
 
The only one that can sometimes cause trouble is the front one that goes into the water jacket, they can corrode from underneath the thread in the block. I had one break but was easy to remove, just drilled a hole in the bolt for a self tapping screw and then wound it down clockwise and removed through the water pump hole, that way you don't need to try to drag the corroded end through the thread

Good luck (y)
 
XMFalcon221":2w3nqywf said:
The only one that can sometimes cause trouble is the front one that goes into the water jacket, they can corrode from underneath the thread in the block. I had one break but was easy to remove, just drilled a hole in the bolt for a self tapping screw and then wound it down clockwise and removed through the water pump hole, that way you don't need to try to drag the corroded end through the thread

Good luck (y)
Click to expand...

good tip on that xm.
 
Dunno if you've gotten to the exhaust manifold yet. There's a much better chance of snapping something there. Particularly, beware the top front and rear bolts, which are through holes and tend to stick if any are going to stick. Try your PB blaster there, too. The rest of the holes are blind holes and generally don't corrode as bad. Upon reassembly, be sure you don't over-torque those two (top front and rear), for fear you could break off the 'ear' they are drilled through. I had rust between the manifold and head crack an ear on one of my heads. I had it welded up - which worked well, but they guy drilled the hole a little bit off of square from the mating surface, which forced me to ovalize the corresponding hole in the exhaust manifold.

Good luck!
 
XMFalcon221":2a4fcch2 said:
The only one that can sometimes cause trouble is the front one that goes into the water jacket, they can corrode from underneath the thread in the block. I had one break but was easy to remove, just drilled a hole in the bolt for a self tapping screw and then wound it down clockwise and removed through the water pump hole, that way you don't need to try to drag the corroded end through the thread

Good luck (y)
Click to expand...
And a tip when re-installing this bolt that goes into the water jacket. Put some permatex sealer on the threads otherwise coolant can weep out from this bolt.
 
Update:

So all the bolts came out pretty easily, expect the one on the rear passenger side. It was a little rusted but did come out ok.

The exhaust manifold was not a problem, I installed a header about a year ago with fresh studs.

Now its getting the head separated from the block that's giving me some trouble. I planned to do this job without an engine lift, but it looks like I may need one to break it loose.

Thanks for the thread sealer tip, I read that in the shop manual also.

Do I need to put anything on the threads of the other bolts? Never-seize or something similar?
 
60sMustang":wqtp28b3 said:
Update:

So all the bolts came out pretty easily, expect the one on the rear passenger side. It was a little rusted but did come out ok.

The exhaust manifold was not a problem, I installed a header about a year ago with fresh studs.

Now its getting the head separated from the block that's giving me some trouble. I planned to do this job without an engine lift, but it looks like I may need one to break it loose.
Click to expand...

you shouldnt need a hoist the break the head loose, but if the head gasket was installed with a sealer of some sort, then you can take a putty knife and use a hammer and wedge it in between the head and the block. a good putty knife is going to rather thin and wont hurt the gasket surfaces.

one thing, make sure you have all the bolts out before you do this.

Do I need to put anything on the threads of the other bolts? Never-seize or something similar?
Click to expand...

i would use ARP bolt lube, after thoroughly cleaning the bolts and the head bolt holes in the block. that way you get an accurate torque reading when you reinstall the head bolts. use the lube on the threads and under the bolt head as well. you dont need to soak the bolts though, just a few drops will do nicely.
 
You might be able to use a pry bar at the front of the head between the thermostat housing and the water pump and gently pry upward to break it loose.
 
:D Try this old trick.Put two of the head bolts back in.Leave about 1/4 to 1/2 inch between the bolt head and the head.Put the plugs back in and crank the engine over.Compression should break the head loose.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
 
regarding the header, id STRONGLY reccomend some stainless studs and split nuts. pulled enough hair out dealign with broken exhaust bolts over the years to give up on non-stainless ones.

When I did my 250, got the studs from mccmaster carr and the split nuts, all stainless, for a lot less than a set of arp ones in black oxide. on the 200, i bought stainless bolts (no studs running stock manifold)
just my .02
 
Going back to the OP's questions, where can you score new headbolts?

I see 300CI ones for sale on summit and elsewhere, but never for the 200s. Where can these be found?
 
I believe I have all the bolts removed but will double check that again. Also. thought about using a putty knife to wedge it apart but didn't want to damage the block gasket surface, the head will be milled some so I wasn't as worried about that half. I've tried a pry bar about everywhere I can think of with no luck.

Was also afraid to hit it with a hammer, didn't want to cause any damage. I may try a small sledge with a piece of wood under the intake log and see what happens.

Don't know if I'd be comfortable with the "crank it over" method to break it free, but it sounds like it could work also. Anyone else have experience doing this?

The header studs used were what came with the header from Classic Inlines.

The head bolts actually don't look to bad, I'm thinking I will just clean them up on a wire wheel and reuse. Any opinions on this. Its a stock motor other than Header and Pertronix ignition.

Thanks for the bolt lube info, didn't think of that effecting torque readings.
 
I did this years ago - but do not consider it the safest approach (and may get yelled at). I had a Celica and could not get the head to break free - I used a length of wooden dowel (approximate size of a broom handle) on top of a small hydraulic floor jack and slowly pumped the jack.

I believed the wood (being softer than the other materials) would deform rather than damaging the steel.

It worked like a million $, but not without risk that the dowel (under load) could have sprung free and acted like a javelin.
 
So today I tried using a putty knife, no luck.

Also tried a pry bar again, no luck

Tried a "bigger hammer" as suggested, no luck.

Looks like I'm going to borrow an engine hoist from someone to put some upward tension on it while I use a rubber hammer to try to break it free. This was the suggestion from the machine shop where I am getting the head rebuilt. I'm thinking someone had to have used a gasket sealer on the head gasket. I'm positive I have all the bolts out and this thing is not moving at all.
 
:unsure: These heads usually come off very easy, there are 7 head bolts on each side of the head for a total of 14 are you sure they are all out? If they are, then you then might try using " woodbutcher's" above tip of leaving a couple head bolts in loose and using the engines compression to pop it loose, it won't hurt anything. Good luck :nod:
 
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